Cabinet Knob Travel Closures Modification

wdk450

Well-known member
Gang:
I got tired of the ugly assortment of mini-bungee cords and rubber bands that I have to use on the cabinet knobs to prevent inadvertent cabinet openings during travel, and possible cabinet door collisions with the slide-outs. I had a brainstorm the other night, and so far have assembled 1 prototype, but the others should be pretty easy.
The idea is to convert the simple knob pull into a rotating knob on an extended shaft ending in a metal blade that will lock against the cabinet frame opposite the door hinges.
The new stuff needed is a 3 inch, 8-32 flat head screw, 2 #8 flat washers, 1 ¼ inch flat washer, 2 ¼ inch felt washers ( I used round felt feet and drilled holes in them), 4 8-32 nuts, and a closure blade made from a piece of 1/8 inch thick by ¾ inch wide zinc plated steel bar stock (from Home Depot) cut 1-½ inches long, and drilled with a 13/32 hole ¼ inch in from one end at the center.

006.jpg

The assembly is pre-assembled by sliding the closure blade down the 3 inch screw to the head; threading on and locking tight a nut to hold the blade in place; threading on 2 more nuts about ½ way up the screw; putting on a #8 flat washer, then the ¼ inch flat washer, then 1 of the felt washers; insert the screw assembly through the cabinet door hole; put the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] felt washer on the screw outside the cabinet (with the adhesive side away from the wood surface; screw on the original knob using thread sealant and locking the screw to the knob as tight as possible. Now screw the inside nut nearest the wood surface down tight against the washers assembly until the knob is snug, but can still rotate. Screw the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] inside nut down to the first one and use 2 wrenches to lock them against each other. Try the locking knob assembly out, and bend the closure blade as needed to get the blade to make the proper closure behind the cabinet framing.

004.jpg

Some extras: You may want to put a screw or thumbtack in behind the door framing to act as a downward stop for the closure blade. You may want to make some sort of discreet, small mark on the knob neck in line with the closure blade, to let you know where it is positioned. Most double knob cabinets have center framing, so they are secured as above. If you have a double knob door set WITHOUT center door framing you can do everything as above, but make the blade for 1 knob 4 inches long, mount the blade close to the inside washers assembly as possible, put no blade on the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] knob assembly, and cut a slot in the 1 blade where it contacts the adjacent knob’s extended screw on the inside of the cabinet door.

Here's a picture of the felt sliders I converted into felt washers for the project.
008.jpg
 
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kowAlski631

Well-known member
We use kiddie locks. Only problem is that sometimes we have to borrow a kid to get them open. LOL

Martha
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Gang:
I got tired of the ugly assortment of mini-bungee cords and rubber bands that I have to use on the cabinet knobs to prevent inadvertent cabinet openings during travel, and possible cabinet door collisions with the slide-outs. I had a brainstorm the other night, and so far have assembled 1 prototype, but the others should be pretty easy.
The idea is to convert the simple knob pull into a rotating knob on an extended shaft ending in a metal blade that will lock against the cabinet frame opposite the door hinges.
The new stuff needed is a 3 inch, 8-32 flat head screw, 2 #8 flat washers, 1 ¼ inch flat washer, 2 ¼ inch felt washers ( I used round felt feet and drilled holes in them), 4 8-32 nuts, and a closure blade made from a piece of 1/8 inch thick by ¾ inch wide zinc plated steel bar stock (from Home Depot) cut 1-½ inches long, and drilled with a 13/32 hole ¼ inch in from one end at the center.

View attachment 27182

The assembly is pre-assembled by sliding the closure blade down the 3 inch screw to the head; threading on and locking tight a nut to hold the blade in place; threading on 2 more nuts about ½ way up the screw; putting on a #8 flat washer, then the ¼ inch flat washer, then 1 of the felt washers; insert the screw assembly through the cabinet door hole; put the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] felt washer on the screw outside the cabinet (with the adhesive side away from the wood surface; screw on the original knob using thread sealant and locking the screw to the knob as tight as possible. Now screw the inside nit nearest the wood surface down tight against the washers assembly until the knob is snug, but can still rotate. Screw the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] inside nut down to the first one and use 2 wrenches to lock them against each other. Try the locking knob assembly out, and bend the closure blade as needed to get the blade to make the proper closure behind the cabinet framing.

View attachment 27183

Some extras: You may want to put a screw or thumbtack in behind the door framing to act as a downward stop for the closure blade. You may want to make some sort of discreet, small mark on the knob neck in line with the closure blade, to let you know where it is positioned. Most double knob cabinets have center framing, so they are secured as above. If you have a double knob door set WITHOUT center door framing you can do everything as above, but make the blade for 1 knob 4 inches long, mount the blade close to the inside washers assembly as possible, put no blade on the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] knob assembly, and cut a slot in the 1 blade where it contacts the adjacent knob’s extended screw on the inside of the cabinet door.

Here's a picture of the felt sliders I converted into felt washers for the project.
View attachment 27184

Looks good, Bill! Wish I could see a little video of it in action?
 

priorguy

Well-known member
Wdk450, how much sleep did you lose thinking of this problem? Obviously it was worth it because the end result is ingenious. Maybe you should patent the idea and sell it to Heartland as an exclusive feature.
 

Garypowell

Well-known member
Bill,

Love it....the best ideas are usually very simple. I just went around the rig feeling all of the ridges inside of the cabinets. I have already lost 1 cabinet door to this problem and with your idea this is a thing of the past!
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Great idea Bill. Some of the higher end motorhomes use drawer and cabinet latches that are pretty cool. Your homebrew solution - cool also. What do you have into these, cost-wise?

I agree with Erika - a video showing how these operate would be great. Looks like a Heartland Highlights article to me :)
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Heartlanders:
Thanks to all for the praise and support on this idea. I am now quasi-fulltiming, and sitting at the Thousand Trails Preserve in Menifee, Ca., and have yet to take advantage of all the recreational stuff here, I have had a lot of thinking/looking/inspiration time. I have been fixing a number of small items (new ceiling fan, screw holes in ceiling from old lights, outlet replacements, A.C. blower outlet re-mounts).
I bought enough supplies for 20 knobs, although I prototyped with #8 threaded rod instead of the specified 3 inch 8-32 screw (which I got the length for by measuring the threaded rod piece). Home Depot prices: A box of 100 nuts was about $4, a box of 100 #8 washers (20 only needed) was $4.24, 25 1/4 inch washers were $2.70, 20 3/4 inch felt pads $2.34, 36" piece of zinc coated flat bar was $3.52. I am not sure about the 3 inch 8-32 screw cost (I'll go to the store today and edit this later), but the 36" threaded rod was $3. Total parts cost for 20 knob turn locks is $19.80, about $1 a knob closure assembly.
Right now I need to get a new hacksaw to cut the steel bar (my little jewelers saw was good for about 1 cut with a real dull blade), and will check HD and Lowe's for the 3 inch screws.
I would be happy to write an article, but have no video camera device at present. I am about to make the jump from a geezer dumbphone to a smartphone, so this may be possible soon.

Edit update: I went looking for the camlock arm/blades only, after having a hard time with my hacksaw and the bar stock. I found them on McMaster-Carr for $1.14 each, part number 1770A111. They have a pre-punched square hole at one end that may need to be drilled out for the #8 screw, but otherwise they are pre-cut, rounded and polished. I know this will double the cost per knob assembly, but may be worth it in decreased aggravation. All the rest of the hardware parts are available on McMaster-Carr at better than HD/Lowes prices, but I don't know what they charge for shipping. Since I looked them up, here are the rest of the McMaster part numbers:
Screws: 90272A209
Nuts: 90480A009
#8 Washers: 90126A512
1/4" Washers: 90108A412
(Their felt washer price was 9.32 for 25 - Buy these at HD)
 
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jbeletti

Well-known member
Bill, at a buck a knob, that a great mod. When you get your smart phone, you can do a video :)

Look at the iPhone 5s.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Update:
I found the 8-32 3 inch screws at Lowes in a pack of 4 (with 4 nuts) for $1.18 per pack. I bought a new hacksaw, but am still having a difficult time cutting the bar stock. I may have a bad blade. I sure wish I was not on the road and had my power saber saw that is back home.


Edit Update: I got a GOOD hacksaw blade and made 5 units today. I also got the chance to try the velcro idea. I think the right velcro is great for most drawers, and maybe some of the cabinets. I have had previous RV disasters of soda cans, canned goods, and dinnerware plates crashing out of their storage during travel (Hint: Corian plates are NOT unbreakable). So I will definitely put the knob mod on any cabinets with heavy stuff inside.
 
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wdk450

Well-known member
We have round knobs on our cabinets and I just slip a pony tail holder over them for travel.

Yeah, that is the simple fix most everybody uses. I just got tired looking at the bungee cords hanging there while I am sitting in a park extended periods, and thought for $1 a knob this is an elegant, hidden, fix that does not need to be put up and taken down. Just remember to turn the knobs to the "locked" position before travel.
 
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