Disc Brake Upgrade

[BigGuy82]

Disc Brake Upgrade w/Kodiak XL-Lube System

Has anyone used the Kodiak disc brake upgrade kits that use the Kodiak XL-Lube bearing set on your rig? I am specifically interested in the viability of the XL-Lube bearing system, which is a sealed cartridge that contains pre-lubed bearings and seals. Never requires lubrication and in the event a bearing cartridge fails, you just replace it (at 95 bucks a pop - so hopefully, they last a very long time).

I'd be interested in whatever expreience you've had with these bearings but also what your comments are on Kodiak disc brakes in general. Seems like they build excellent quality stuff and I can do the whole job on my Bighorn 3010RE for around $1,800, all in. As I think about it, probably the best safety upgrade I can make.,

 

[danemayer]

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade w/Kodiak XL-Lube System

Has anyone used the Kodiak disc brake upgrade kits that use the Kodiak XL-Lube bearing set on your rig? I am specifically interested in the viability of the XL-Lube bearing system, which is a sealed cartridge that contains pre-lubed bearings and seals. Never requires lubrication and in the event a bearing cartridge fails, you just replace it (at 95 bucks a pop - so hopefully, they last a very long time).

I'm guessing the $95 doesn't include the damage that'll occur if the wheel falls off when the cartridge fails. So you're really betting that "Never requires lubrication" means it will never fail as long as you own the trailer.

 

[Titanguy]

The Kodiak XL sealed bearing requires a special axle. The bearings will not work in a standard 7k or 8k Dexter axle. You must have the Dexter Nev-R-Lube axle to use this kit.
Kodiak & Titan disc brakes are identical, parts interchange and both use an off the shelf GM pad with no performance differences. Performances differences come from the actuator. Titan EHB, Cargo Hydrastar and the Dexter are the options. Activation speed is the difference Titan .3 seconds, Hydrastar advertises .8 seconds.

 

[BigGuy82]

The Kodiak XL sealed bearing requires a special axle. The bearings will not work in a standard 7k or 8k Dexter axle. You must have the Dexter Nev-R-Lube axle to use this kit.
Kodiak & Titan disc brakes are identical, parts interchange and both use an off the shelf GM pad with no performance differences. Performances differences come from the actuator. Titan EHB, Cargo Hydrastar and the Dexter are the options. Activation speed is the difference Titan .3 seconds, Hydrastar advertises .8 seconds.

Thanks for the info. I've got EZ Lube 7k axles. Back to the drawing board. I'm going to pull the S/N's from the axles, get the specs from Dexter, call Kodiak and get the exact recommendation. I'm interested in the oil lube system they have also - the one that has the clear plastic cap that is topped off with oil that bathes the bearings. In case you haven't guessed, I don't like packing wheel bearings.

 

[Titanguy]

Thanks for the info. I've got EZ Lube 7k axles. Back to the drawing board. I'm going to pull the S/N's from the axles, get the specs from Dexter, call Kodiak and get the exact recommendation. I'm interested in the oil lube system they have also - the one that has the clear plastic cap that is topped off with oil that bathes the bearings. In case you haven't guessed, I don't like packing wheel bearings.

The only difference in the grease & oil kit is the grease seal. Everything else is the same.

 

[cookie]

I'm interested in the oil lube system they have also - the one that has the clear plastic cap that is topped off with oil that bathes the bearings. In case you haven't guessed, I don't like packing wheel bearings.

Before I did my disc brake conversion I saw a couple of DRV's that came with the oil bath. Three of the eight seals were leaking.
Not saying the oil bath is not good, but it's one more thing I don't want to deal with. I'll just repack.
This past summer I repacked and changed the brake pads while I had it apart. 35,000 miles and really didn't need the pads.

Peace
Dave

 

[mlpeloquin]

Almost two years ago on the way to the national rally in Goshen, we met a couple with a brand new DRV on their first trip. The were waiting for the mobile mechanic to return with the parts to change over to greased bearing. They had thousands of damage do to three tires flying off (one at an occurrence at a time over five days) do to the oil bath bearings. When an oil bath bearing looses the oil it only takes minuets to heat, gall, and fall apart. They said they inspected the oil level and looked for leaks as they were instructed. So all happened while they were driving. I read somewhere that DRV now makes greased bearing standard and that oil bath bearings may or may not be an option now.

 

[BigGuy82]

Almost two years ago on the way to the national rally in Goshen, we met a couple with a brand new DRV on their first trip. The were waiting for the mobile mechanic to return with the parts to change over to greased bearing. They had thousands of damage do to three tires flying off (one at an occurrence at a time over five days) do to the oil bath bearings. When an oil bath bearing looses the oil it only takes minuets to heat, gall, and fall apart. They said they inspected the oil level and looked for leaks as they were instructed. So all happened while they were driving. I read somewhere that DRV now makes greased bearing standard and that oil bath bearings may or may not be an option now.

I talked to the folks at Kodiak today and even though they do provide the oil bath option, they clearly recommend greased bearings, pretty much for the reason you mentioned. I guess there's no getting around it - greased bearings it is.

After all these years, you'd think someone would have figured out a better way ...

 

[wdk450]

The Kodiak system that MorRyde installs has the oil lube bearing setup, but they pack it with grease. The oil lube would SEEM the way to go, since the truckers all use it on their trailers, but I haven't heard any positive comments on it when used in towable RV's.

 

[BigGuy82]

The Kodiak system the MorRyde installs has the oil lube bearing setup, but they pack it with grease. The oil lube would SEEM the way to go, since the truckers all use it on their trailers, but I haven't heard any positive comments on it when used in towable RV's.

The tech at Kodiak (very helpful folks) said that they ship the upgrades with the plastic cap that has a rubber plug in it. That way, depending on which seal (oil or grease) you put in, you can go either way. He also said that the big rigs have the oil system perfected but that on RV's we have a ways to go. He definitely did not recommend oil.

 

[porthole]

The Kodiak system the MorRyde installs has the oil lube bearing setup, but they pack it with grease. The oil lube would SEEM the way to go, since the truckers all use it on their trailers, but I haven't heard any positive comments on it when used in towable RV's.

No
doubt it has to do with the quality of the RV parts.

If all our fire apparatus oil bearings failed liked the RV's with oil bearings do, we wouldn't have any trucks in service.