Fairly Newby with a problem

[Cannondragger]

I have a 2012 Big Country 3595RE. I will attach pictures that hopefully will help explain. Our Sister-in-law is taking Chemo and my wife is staying in North Carolina and I am in Mississippi. On the trip over last weekend we had a blow out on the front axel, backside of the camper. It tore up two 120VAC circuits, icemaker line, gas line and the 12VDC circuit to the fridge controls. I patched these up before I left. While working behind the rear side of the under storage compartment, I found two small water leaks and fixed these, they may or may not been tire related. My question, Where is this water coming from? Under the camper, frontside, over the front axel?
Thank you for any help!

 

[cookie]

That looks like the overflow for the fresh water tank.
Does your rig have the Anderson switching valve for the water supply?

Peace
Dave

 

[Cannondragger]

That looks like the overflow for the fresh water tank.
Does your rig have the Anderson switching valve for the water supply?

Peace
Dave

My wife says it is an "Anderson" valve. Has a black handle.

Thank You
Glen

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A Bit more info. The factory Water Heater bypass valve has been replaced. The factory one is mounted to the panel and plastic, the replacement is not mounted and behind the panel, it must be accessed by removing the black panel in the storage compartment. I did not turn the replacement when I was working on the camper last weekend.
Thanks to ya'll!

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Pictures of the water supply routing valve

 

[wdk450]

With the reputation of low grade OEM tires on big 5th wheels, you need to take a good evaluation of the remaining 3 tires, and think about replacing them, unless you can stand another blowout and all of the possible collateral damage. If nothing else, keep your speed down to 55 mph until you can replace them, and always check the tire pressures pre-trip.

 

[Cannondragger]

I will take three new tires and replace them before returning. As an ex-car racer, I did check the tires over and set pressures before leaving, also torqued the lug nuts. I am VERY disappointed with the lug nuts, I had the cover spin on the nut and hang my socket on it. I am looking to replace all the lug nuts for some without the stainless covers. Does anyone have suggestions where to get them?

Glen

 

[CoveredWagon]

Are you hooked up to park water or running from the fresh water tank?

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I will take three new tires and replace them before returning. As an ex-car racer, I did check the tires over and set pressures before leaving, also torqued the lug nuts. I am VERY disappointed with the lug nuts, I had the cover spin on the nut and hang my socket on it. I am looking to replace all the lug nuts for some without the stainless covers. Does anyone have suggestions where to get them?

Glen

NAPA has them

 

[Cannondragger]

Are you hooked up to park water or running from the fresh water tank?

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NAPA has them

Hooked up to city water, at my brother-in-laws house.
I have learned that they took the pressure regulator off, trying to put a metal 90 on to prevent the hose from crimping. The 90 leaked and they didn't put the pressure regulator back on. Could too much pressure over-ride the routing supply valve, thereby over filling the fresh water tank?

 

[Cannondragger]

Can anyone suggest a replacement to the plastic bodied "Anderson" routing water supply valve? When I get the camper home I plan on replumbing some past work on the water system.

 

[SLO]

I will take three new tires and replace them before returning. As an ex-car racer, I did check the tires over and set pressures before leaving, also torqued the lug nuts. I am VERY disappointed with the lug nuts, I had the cover spin on the nut and hang my socket on it. I am looking to replace all the lug nuts for some without the stainless covers. Does anyone have suggestions where to get them?

Glen

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-76198-Duplex-Acorn/dp/B004U3TIQ0


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[jbeletti]

Can anyone suggest a replacement to the plastic bodied "Anderson" routing water supply valve? When I get the camper home I plan on replumbing some past work on the water system. View attachment 65275

You might consider the new all-brass version: https://www.abcorv.com/

 

[danemayer]

Can anyone suggest a replacement to the plastic bodied "Anderson" routing water supply valve? When I get the camper home I plan on replumbing some past work on the water system. View attachment 65275

Anderson has completely redesigned the valve assembly and now makes it out of all brass - no plastic. Here's a link to ABCORV. I think you can also purchase from Amazon and probably other online sources.

If your fresh tank overflows are spilling water, as in your picture, there are a couple of possibilities. One is a leak inside the Anderson Valve assembly. The other is water flowing back through the water pump internal check valve. If water pressure is higher than 60 psi, it could be that's the cause. If you take a look at our owner-written Fresh Tank Fills by Itself guide, there's an explanation of how to tell which component is failing.

 

[Cannondragger]

Anderson has completely redesigned the valve assembly and now makes it out of all brass - no plastic. Here's a link to ABCORV. I think you can also purchase from Amazon and probably other online sources.

If your fresh tank overflows are spilling water, as in your picture, there are a couple of possibilities. One is a leak inside the Anderson Valve assembly. The other is water flowing back through the water pump internal check valve. If water pressure is higher than 60 psi, it could be that's the cause. If you take a look at our owner-written Fresh Tank Fills by Itself guide, there's an explanation of how to tell which component is failing.

Thank You!

I will get them to put the pressure regulator back on. Perhaps that will take care of the problem till I can get the camper home...

Glen

 

[Cannondragger]

I appreciate the info from everyone! I will order the lug nuts and get three tires to match the one I bought when I had the flat. I WILL have all new tires on the ground with new lug nuts, before I head home.
They are going to get a new angle hook up for the water hose and also put the pressure regulator back on, which I am hoping will fix the fresh water overflowing for the time being.

Thank you
Glen Nalley

 

[Cannondragger]

They replaced the ridged 90 on the water supply and reinstalled the pressure regulator, the fresh water tank has quit filling. Thank you everyone for the leads on the new lug nuts and water supply router valve. I will order the lug nuts and get them shipped to the camper location with three new tires so that I can install them before heading home.
Thank you for the help in troubleshooting, so that my wife and brother-in-law could solve the overflow problem.
I have been impressed with the wonderfulness of ya'll!

Glen

 

[NYSUPstater]

While our coach is still in storage, I'm not sure if the A valve is bad or have bad 1 way valve for water tank cuz it was filling up w/ anti-freeze last Oct despite the A valve in winterize position. So trying to get things done ASAP, called past dealer up as they have been good to us and none in stock and wanted 90 bucks for a new one (plastic). Ends up, that's the going rate here in town for it. Found the exact same thing albeit blue in color for 25 bucks out of OH---still plastic. Got it BUT all the water lines attached to the A valve won't come off it looks like unless the PEX clamps are all removed 1st before unscrewing things. Thought it was going to be easy. Under the gun to get into storage, bought a water by-pass kit which took 5 minutes to install and wholla, no more anti-freeze going into tank. Now as for the A valve, still have no idea if it's bad or not, but if one doesn't want to spend the bucks for a brass one, look into US Plastics out of Ohio.

 

[Cannondragger]

While our coach is still in storage, I'm not sure if the A valve is bad or have bad 1 way valve for water tank cuz it was filling up w/ anti-freeze last Oct despite the A valve in winterize position. So trying to get things done ASAP, called past dealer up as they have been good to us and none in stock and wanted 90 bucks for a new one (plastic). Ends up, that's the going rate here in town for it. Found the exact same thing albeit blue in color for 25 bucks out of OH---still plastic. Got it BUT all the water lines attached to the A valve won't come off it looks like unless the PEX clamps are all removed 1st before unscrewing things. Thought it was going to be easy. Under the gun to get into storage, bought a water by-pass kit which took 5 minutes to install and wholla, no more anti-freeze going into tank. Now as for the A valve, still have no idea if it's bad or not, but if one doesn't want to spend the bucks for a brass one, look into US Plastics out of Ohio.

Thanks for the lead. But I think I am going to redo a good bit of a past "repair" behind the water supply routing valve. In the past someone use the tubing like you see on an old school kitchen sink spray wand. Looks like they had a lot of one foot pieces as there are a hat full splices in the tubing. The tubing is swelling at nearly each connection. All the connectors are plastic. I am going to replace with PEX and brass fittings. I'm also going to put in a brass routing valve, so that it can handle a little more water pressure. Also someone has replaced the water heater bypass valve. They put in a metal one but it is just hanging behind the docking station so to access it you have to take the wall down in the storage compartment.
Be well and Camp-On!