Furring igniter

[centerline]

Roller4tan . . .

I see a spark, just not immediately as per usual. Eventually the burners will light. I'm not seeingthe problem with just one of the burners; they've all simultaneously started not igniting with the first click of the ignition knob. The oven has always taken a ong time to ignite which I now know is usual for the Furrion ovens, per a video I watched on YouTube. But the burner situation is unusual, for me anyway, and when I checkd the wires after removing the drip pan they all appeared to be in good shape, attached properly, etc. I don't necessarily know what I am looking at, however, so I suppose there could be something I am missing. I have noticed that the burner igniters will often spark when I am trying to light the oven though, which seems odd. I have the oven knob turned to the "flame" icon, pushed in, and am turning the igniter knob. The oven igniter will not spark but the burner knobs will. It's all a mystery to me.

When you say "check the gap from the igniter to ground" what am I checking for? What specifically do you mean?

Thank you for your reply!

with the pan removed, watch the wires and connections as you try lighting it in total darkness.... any leakage of power from the igniter system will easily be seen, so it can be more precisely inspected and repaired

 

[KBurnham]

Dahillbilly . . .

The problem we seem to be having is that there is no spark when I turn the pulse ignition knob, at least not right away, and when I continue to turn the knob in order to get a spark so much propane accumulates near the burner that if there is finally a spark there is a HUGE flame until the excess propane burns off. I've stopped trying to get a spark on any of the burners and am just using a match or handheld igniter. I know the knob can be replaced, but what I don't really know for certain is if that is the source of the ignition problem or if it is somewhere else in the system. The wiring seems to be intact everywhere, but as I've said, I'm not sure. I'll call the one RV/trailer mechanic there is in our county and see if he can figure it out. If not, well, a match works just fine so far.

Thank you. The gap seems to be just fine between the igniter tip and the port where the propane comes out, as far as I can tell.

 

[KBurnham]

Centerline . . .

By leakage of power, do you mean sparks? Again, I'm not certain what I am looking for. And so much propane comes out while I try to get an ignition spark at the igniter tips that it's actually rather scary if there is ignition . . . it's a huge flame. If I remove the spill pan and look for a leakage of power, can I just be turning the pulse ignition knob and not have any propane to the burners turned on?

 

[Dahillbilly]

Centerline . . .

By leakage of power, do you mean sparks? Again, I'm not certain what I am looking for. And so much propane comes out while I try to get an ignition spark at the igniter tips that it's actually rather scary if there is ignition . . . it's a huge flame. If I remove the spill pan and look for a leakage of power, can I just be turning the pulse ignition knob and not have any propane to the burners turned on?

turn your tanks off light one burner till the flame goes out'; turn off burner & then check your ignitors & wiring for sparks. After done checking then turn tank valves back on slowly.

 

[centerline]

Centerline . . .

By leakage of power, do you mean sparks? Again, I'm not certain what I am looking for. And so much propane comes out while I try to get an ignition spark at the igniter tips that it's actually rather scary if there is ignition . . . it's a huge flame. If I remove the spill pan and look for a leakage of power, can I just be turning the pulse ignition knob and not have any propane to the burners turned on?

yes, you are looking for a small spark.... and if you find it and tape over it, look for other spots that may begin to leak the spark.... electricity has a way of following the path of least resistance, and a different spot on the insulation may become the weak spot after repairing the previous leak..

the gas build up is inevitable if the valve is on without it igniting...
another issue which can be common in some installations, the air movement near the stove may carry the gas AWAY from the ignition point.... and then make a mini explosion when it finally does ignite..... I have gotten the habit of waving my hand over the burner just before snapping the ignitor, which then allows the bit of air movement to waft the gas by the igniter as it activates.... sometimes it helps to place a pan on the burner, which can then allow the gas to pool near the ignition point......

im not sure of your exact expectations, but its unreasonable to EXPECT the ignitier to light the burner the first time, every time, but normally it should light within 3 clicks....
if you desire a system that will light the burner the first time, every time, then a live pilot system or a match/lighter will be your best option...

one other thing that ive just remembered that you can check..... ive seen the piezo igniter units get gummed with old greasy stove residue, which then didnt allow the ignitor to SNAP quick enough after turning the knob, causing a delayed spark (sometimes none at all).... its annoying but the burner should light if the gas is getting to the spark... if the piezo unit being dirty and sluggish is the cause, wd-40 should help clean it up....

 

[KBurnham]

Centerline . . . . thank you.

I assume that I am to take the spill pan off, turn off the propane tank, then turn the pulse ignition knob and see if there is any spark along any of the wires that are in view now that the pan is off?

I have always only had to turn the pulse igniter once for the burner igniters to light; sometimes the one in the far right corner would take a bit more, but the front burner, the largest of the three, would ignite immediately. The oven takes forever, or at least it feels like forever when you are holding the oven knob in and bending down to watch for ignition in the oven cavity. 30 secs to a minute is the norm.

We are getting another weather front starting tonight/tomorrow so I may have to put off time outside at the propane tanks, but whenever it's possible I will pursue this and see what I can see.

Thank you so much. This has been quite an education for me!

 

[KBurnham]

Centerline . . .

Just to let you know. I turned off the propane, burned off what was left in the line at the front burner, took off the spill pan, and started turning the pulse ignition knob. At first there was nothing, and then I saw tiny sparking at each of the burner ignition tips (I think what you refer to as piezo), but no sparking anywhere else. Why there is sparking now at the ignition tips at the burners when there wasn't before is a mystery. It makes me think I should try turning the ignition knob BEFORE turning the propane knob for the burner and see if that helps. Otherwise, I have no idea why anything is different from the days before today. Any "cleaning" was done days ago So now I will put everything back together, turn on the propane tank, and see what happens.

 

[KBurnham]

So . . . the igniters will spark immediately when no propane is turned on at the burner(s), but there may or may not be a spark right away once the propane is sent to the burner, so the propane is not lit immediately and that results in a strong propane odor. I am going to turn the exhaust fan on right before ignition as that seems to help dissipate the excess propane. Oh well . . . this is strange but I think I've exhausted my trouble shooting capabilities!

Thanks you to all for your suggestions!