Gray Tank Valves are very Stiff

[bigdob24]

My two gray water tank valves are very hard to open and close. They do not seal.
The black water valve is ok .
I have a valve on the end before the cap so I don't have a pipe full of water every time I take the cap off to attach the sewer pipe.
I would like to fix the internal valves as well
My dealer says that if something rests on them and bends them into a bind is the biggest problem they find.
They tell me to open the chloroplast up and look in and see watts going on.
Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to fix it?
Thanks
Dan

 

[jmgratz]

The first thing to try is to spray some lubricant or silicon spray on the cable where it enters the housing. I have not tried it but have heard you can pour some liquid cooking oil in the tank to help lubricate the valve in the tank. It is possible the cable is kinked also. But try the lubricant before going to the trouble of removing the coroplast. BTW you may be able see the cable if you look behind the basement wall.

 

[Roller4tan]

I just had to replace the galley tank valve for the same reason. With the valve disconnected the cable worked easily with one finger. I took the valve out and cleaned it up and manually operated it open and close. As I worked the valve it got stiffer and difficult to work. So I changed it out. Took four attempts to get the seals in right so it wouldn't leak.
Cut a small flap to scope out where the valve is then widen it to get room to work. Tape it back up with gorilla tape when done.

 

[mlpeloquin]

I would like to know the size of the gate valves. I think the black and one gray water valve is three inch, but a smaller pipe is on the other gray gate valve. This can be seen under the rig with out removing the bottom cover. My cousin owns RV-R-US in Massachusetts and says to usePetroleum Jelly on the gaskets. I did this when I had my class C and did not have another problem. After two and a half months on the road and attending the Heartland Rally, my two gray water valves are also hard to open and are leaking. I have three inch gaskets, but would want to know if all of the valves are three inch or if one is a smaller size before opening up the bottom. When I was at the rally, a Heartland tech told me not to cut the bottom open. That I should unscrew one side of the bottom cover and reach in to fix the valves.

 

[Roller4tan]

My two grays are 1 and half inch, black is 3 " .With the trouble I had installing the valve, I doubt if it can be done in the blind. I suppose I could have taken the time to remove all the screws to pull it down far enough to work on it, but it wrapped around the dump down pipe and the gas line was in the way as well.

 

[mlpeloquin]

Thank you. I will get 1.5" gaskets before I attempt the job. I know that a friend of mine had to have two tanks replaced on a Big Country shortly after purchasing it. Two of the tanks, gray water, were cracked and leaked. The RV repair shop cut the bottom across and removed the section. When they reinstalled it looks like they filled the gap with spray foam. I will take a look, but I think I will end up cutting a section out as well.

 

[danemayer]

If you cut the coroplast, you can cut 3 sides of a rectangle leaving the front edge intact. The coroplast will bend on that "hinge". Then you can bend it back into place and tape it.

You may also want to consider Zippered Flex-Mend Trap Flaps. I've had them on for over a year. When you apply them, you cut an opening that also hinges on the front edge, but is rounded. I can get to the gate valves by unzipping the flaps.

Something some of us have had success with is spraying the plunger at the gate valve with lubricant. Also, make sure the nuts holding the gate valve together are snug, but not too tight. And it's easy to periodically lubricate the plunger if you have trap flaps.

 

[bigdob24]

I will try to lube cables first, not much hope in that though.
I have looked behind the basement wall and all I can see is that they dive in between the frame .
I'll have to take part of the chloroplast loose and see what's there.
The cable is 6' so not far from where they dive down behind the basement .
I need a cool day to start this project.
thanks
Dan

 

[Jim Heibeck]

I had same issue with both my black and gray tank valves. My dealer told me Heartland installed the wrong length cables that caused them to bind as I tried to close the valve. Yes, all tanks leaked prior to repair just before my trailer was one year old. I also installed a valve out at the hose end outside of frame for a safety for future issues to prevent spillage. After repair, my valves close and cables are free. Good Luck SH______ JOB.

Jim

 

[GOTTOYS]

I just went over all of mine. I dropped the Coroplast for the front gray and cut holes in it for the black and the rear gray tank. Like it was said, cut 3 sides and bend it down. Gorilla tape will seal them back together. I used lots of it. I removed each cable from the valve. Use a Phillips for the housing and a Allen wrench for the cable. I pulled the cable out out and greased them up. I then shortened the housing but cutting it off with a Dremel and a cut off wheel. Reinsert the cable and cut that off the same way. I lubed up the slide on the valves with some spray lube and worked them in and out. They work 10 times better now that they are lubed and all the excess slack is out of the cable so they can't flex as much...Don

 

[bigdob24]

Started the repair job yesterday.
Droped part of the chloroplast to locate the valves. Then cut three sides and folded it down to allow access .
Had to take the valve out and greased it with water proof grease and reassembled. The cable was plenty long so cut it off to an acceptable length and lubed it with a dry lubricant and all works like you would expect, nice and smooth and actually closes all the way.
Luckaly the black tank is good" for now" but I will lube and cut the cable to shorter length.
One more gray tank today and it's done.
I use Scrim Tape to close it all up and then some foam sealer reapplied .
It can be messy make sure you drain and flush the tanks before starting this project if you plan on removing a valve.

 

[danemayer]

Also, after emptying the tanks, releveling the trailer so that the sewer outlet is higher than normal will move any remaining water away from the gate valves.

 

[wdk450]

So far I have had good luck with this: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40246-Drain-Valve-Lube/dp/B000EDSSG6 It also helps with the toilet valve seal. After dumping the tanks, I keep the sewer hose hooked up, add about 1/4 cup of the lubricant to the toilet (or drain for affected tank) with a lot of water (maybe 5 gallons?). I then go back outside and start dumping again sliding the valve handle off and on every 5 seconds or so for about 10-15 times. I normally feel the handles get easier as the coconut oil lubricant coats the rubber valve seals. Some spray lube down the cables doesn't hurt either.

 

[blueoval]

I am having the same problems with closing the waste valves (Black, Gray 1 and Gray 2). We have had the Sundance for 3 plus years and they have never really worked correctly. They would pull open easily but took some good pressure to close. They never really closed all the way, left open just enough to have a small slow leak, all tanks. A month ago my black waste valve fine gave out while camping.

I have done a ton of reading and even called Valterra to get an install manual on how these cable actuated waste valves work. Well here is what I have found. After taking off the coroplast (about 5' or 6' wide piece and the width of the camper) the factory DID NOT install them correctly and I bet yours are not either along with every other camper they send out the door.

In Valterra install manual they say these cables can not be bent more then 180 degrees and the bend has to be no closer then 24". Cable must be 6" straight coming out of the waste gate and 6" straight out the back side of the handle. They cannot be looped over each other and the cables must be secured 24" from the handle and the valve. valterra also says the cables and cable housing DO NOT need to be lubricated but to use silicon spray only on the coupler rod. (part that close the blade over the drain holes).

Well guess what when I opened mine up the cables were all over the place, not secured at any spot and had bends as close as 12" on my tanks (Gray 1) and my black was looped over. At this point there is no way to get these installed correctly. The reason why: a 6" straight run out of the back side of the handle CANNOT happen because the design of the UDC location has them taking a right-turn and drop down into the belly of the camper and bending as close as 8" to 12".

At this point I am now doing a ton of reading on the electric units and hoping they work better then what was supplied from Heartland.

I tried to upload the Valterra install manual but it would not let me

Just my 2 cents worth

 

[jbeletti]

...I tried to upload the Valterra install manual but it would not let me

Please email the manual (PDF format) to manuals@heartlandowners.org. There, moderator Dan Mayer will review it and if relevant and not already posted, he will add it to HOM (Hearltand Owners Manuals). Thanks.

 

[vicrider]

I just cut the coroplast, found the valves, Shot WD40 in where the cable goes in the valve, dumped some vegetable oil in each of the tanks, viola! They work again.

 

[JanAndBill]

As others have posted the cable operated valve is not the problem, it's the installation. After multiple trips to the dealer, I did the work myself. Tank valves now open and close easily and completely with one finger. The length of the cable, is not as important as the lay out in the compartment. Sharp bends, unsecured, and stuff piled on top all create problems. When you get a new cable it comes with a spacer at the handle approximately 1/2" thick. The reason for this is it lets you set the length of the inner and outer cable at the valve. Anyone that wants the instructions can search my postings or send me a message and I'll forward them. FYI both the manual and the electric valves require regular maintenance to operate properly. Also, would recommend the use of a silicon spray rather than WD40, as it can cause the rubber seal to degrade over time, and attracts dirt.

 

[danemayer]

Over the last couple of years I've seen four approaches to fixing gate valve handles that didn't move smoothly.

1. I've read a few posts about people trying to improve how the cables slide in their sheaths, either with placement or with lubricants. Mixed results.
2. I've read a few posts about pouring oil or some lubricant into the tank. Mixed results.
3. I've read a few posts about lubricating the plunger and/or blade at the gate valve so that the blade slides more easily. A number of people, including myself, have had instant improvement with this approach. Silicon spray is recommended.
4. Several people have rebuilt the gate valve, replacing the rubber seals to fix the problem, with good results.

My conclusion is that the major problem is with the blade sliding into the rubber seals. I think a poorly routed cable may make it worse, but I'm doubtful that better routing alone will fix a hard to operate gate valve.

And I'm pretty sure that leaky gate valves are much more likely to be due to crud stuck in the rubber seals than anything to do with the cable operation. The black tank valve is particularly susceptible to being closed with a wad of TP laying across the seals. The blade jams it into the seals, preventing the blade from making a tight seal from that point on.

 

[wdk450]

Having recently experienced the great "fun" of dumping with a leaky valve filling the 3 inch outlet pipe with "stuff", I would greatly encourage EVERYONE reading this post to buy and INSTALL IMMEDIATELY an external valve on the sewer outlet fitting. Here is a link to a picture of the valve: http://tweetys.com/twistonwastevalve3.aspx I had one of these new valves in my "tank dumping" tote, but it didn't help me with the spilled "stuff" while it was in my tote. If I had installed it before the problems, the mess from the tank valve problems would have been absent.

 

[sjandbj]

Bill,
I would agree that the external shutoff valve is not an optional valve. I installed a permanent one on my Big Country. I have talked to many friends when camping and they all had a valve in the storage bin but never got around to installing it until after the first time the black tank valve failed and opened up while traveling. I had to smile when I their stories.