ISO simple add-on AC option for bunkhouse

[PeterS]

Good Morning fellow campers.

We have an M32 (30A !) and the bunkhouse heating/cooling is sub-par to say the least. Already inspected all ducting for obstructions and straight routing from the inside access covers. All good now there. However I am not taking down the underbelly cover to check/redo - too many gas pipes, wires etc in the way.

Additional heating needs we solved with a small 110V plug-in circular stand-up unit. Works great.

Cooling, currently just using a fan, but would like to find some type of small AC unit to either add to pop-up window in ceiling or the small, lower slide-up part of the rear window.
Is there anything plug-in that is reasonable and small enough to accommodate?

 

[Silverado23]

An option for the roof vent would be to add an rv ac unit and set it up to be plugged independent of your rv 30 amp power.

 

[Cperk]

We have a 33bkss and the cooling in the bunk was inadequate also. I bought another Coleman Mach and some 12-2 with ground romex wire. Some wire mold from Lowe’s and a 20 amp marine style male flush mount plug. Ran the wire in the wire mold down to the wall and got behind the heater/electrical box. Pulled out the breaker/fuse panel. Drilled a site hole with an 1/8” bit beside the existing 30 amp plug. Went from outside and drilled correct size hole (with a hole saw) for the marine style plug. Ran the wires out and connected to the plug. I used a little silicone and screwed the plug to the wall. The a/c unit will have to be the local control type, (with the knobs on the inside cover). Remove the roof vent and all the sealant as the new a/c will have a dense foam seal. The frame was already there for the a/c. The trick is getting the wire from the inside of the roof to inside the frame square. I used a 3/4” hole saw and fished the wire through a half inch hole in the roof through the 3/4” hole in the metal framed square. I used some thick plastic around the wire where it came through the metal stud of the frame square to prevent a short. The rest is easy. Just wire the a/c up and plug in the control cover with the knobs on it. Oh the step before this is to square up the new a/c and tighten the four included long bolts down to pinch the foam tight for a good seal. When you put on the control panel make sure there’s a good seal on the duct that separates the return air from the supply air. This could cause some freezing up of the evaporator if the seal between the two isn’t good. All power should be unplugged when removing the electrical panel to access the space behind for the installation(even unhooking the battery). I removed the bunkhouse a/c vent and put some bubble wrap inside to block off the air from the front a/c. The install took me about 4 hrs total. I’m an 25 yr HVAC technician and know how to wire things. I also had a tractor with a front loader to get the new a/c on the roof.

On a side note, we just got back from the beach for a 10 day camp. The a/c’s will run you out now!! Kept it 70° all day with temps in the high 90s.

 

[Silverado23]

We have a 33bkss and the cooling in the bunk was inadequate also. I bought another Coleman Mach and some 12-2 with ground romex wire. Some wire mold from Lowe’s and a 20 amp marine style male flush mount plug. Ran the wire in the wire mold down to the wall and got behind the heater/electrical box. Pulled out the breaker/fuse panel. Drilled a site hole with an 1/8” bit beside the existing 30 amp plug. Went from outside and drilled correct size hole (with a hole saw) for the marine style plug. Ran the wires out and connected to the plug. I used a little silicone and screwed the plug to the wall. The a/c unit will have to be the local control type, (with the knobs on the inside cover). Remove the roof vent and all the sealant as the new a/c will have a dense foam seal. The frame was already there for the a/c. The trick is getting the wire from the inside of the roof to inside the frame square. I used a 3/4” hole saw and fished the wire through a half inch hole in the roof through the 3/4” hole in the metal framed square. I used some thick plastic around the wire where it came through the metal stud of the frame square to prevent a short. The rest is easy. Just wire the a/c up and plug in the control cover with the knobs on it. Oh the step before this is to square up the new a/c and tighten the four included long bolts down to pinch the foam tight for a good seal. When you put on the control panel make sure there’s a good seal on the duct that separates the return air from the supply air. This could cause some freezing up of the evaporator if the seal between the two isn’t good. All power should be unplugged when removing the electrical panel to access the space behind for the installation(even unhooking the battery). I removed the bunkhouse a/c vent and put some bubble wrap inside to block off the air from the front a/c. The install took me about 4 hrs total. I’m an 25 yr HVAC technician and know how to wire things. I also had a tractor with a front loader to get the new a/c on the roof.

On a side note, we just got back from the beach for a 10 day camp. The a/c’s will run you out now!! Kept it 70° all day with temps in the high 90s.

Thanks for sharing the details of your installation.
That is exactly the option I suggest if possible.

I like the two Coleman mac air units I have on my Nt.
Nothing like coming inside to nice cool 70s from the hot and humid outside air.

 

[Cperk]

I will add some pics as soon as I get a chance to!