Need quick advice: safe to drive with only 7 of 8 lug nuts on to get to repair?

[David-and-Cheryl]

Our trailer tires aged out, so we decided to upgrade them to Load Range H G114s, which also necessitated new wheels.

When I went to change the wheels, I discovered that one of the wheel studs is badly damaged. It looks like it was over-torqued when I had my new Titan disc brakes installed just a couple weeks ago. I managed to remove the damaged lug nut with a lot of effort, but there is no way a new nut will go on to the stud.



Ron at Performance Trailer Braking (TitanGuy) is overnighting me a new stud, which will arrive in the next couple hours. Coach-Net will try to find me a mobile tech who can replace the damaged stud here in the RV park, but I'm not sure they'll be able to locate someone with the right tools, and I'm not even certain it can be done in the field at all. I've seen instructions on the web to use a tie rod end removal tool or a ball joint separator tool to press the stud out of the hub, but because the Titan disc rotor is integrated with the hub and can't be removed (see photo), I don't think either of those tools will be able to reach around the rotor.



So, my questions:

1. Can the stud be hammered out with the hub assembly still mounted on the trailer? I've read that this is a bad idea because it risks damaging the hub and the bearings, but apparently it's a common practice. I suspect a mobile tech is going to take this approach, and I want to be ready to say no and tell him why if so.

2. Is there any other way to remove the damaged stud in the field?

3. If I run out of other options, can I safely drive the trailer to a shop (probably 14 miles or so) with only 7 of the 8 lug nuts fastened on that one wheel? We are right at our GVWR on the trailer, although the new brakes, wheels and tires are all rated for more weight than that. I will of course use a torque wrench to properly torque the nuts to specs.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Yes you can. ..
I wouldn't worry about it one bit
And I also wouldn't worry about hammering out the stud while on the axle. However hammering in the new stud and getting it to seat in proporly is going to be the question.
Luckily the disc brakes rotors does give you the access but you'll need a big heavy duty punch to reach it.
Or you can pull it in using a stack of washers and a nut.
Don't use the aluminum wheel to pull the stud in !!!!
Hope this helps

Jerrod



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[MP_CS]

Imo, Id get a reputable auto mechanic to do the job, they might even be able to chase the threads with the proper die and not even have to replace it. If not i wouldn't have any reservations about driving to a shop only 14 miles away.

 

[dbbls59]

I drove 250 miles with 3 lug nuts on a 6 lug axle once. Made it ok but was very concerned. Didn't make any sharp turns. I wouldn't even be concerned with 7 of 8.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

A few good precise hits with a large sledgehammer and it'll be out before you know it... Pop the new stud in... Suck it in with the nut and a stack of washers and you're ready to roll.

It is very easy access on the back side so it will be a piece of cake.
Just make sure you don't mushroom the head of the old stud to much or you'll have to grind it down to get it out of the hold.

If you can't get a good hit on the stud use a big punch and a socket to keep the punch aligned on the head of the stud. A few good whacks and it will be out.

Jerrod

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[David-and-Cheryl]

A few good precise hits with a large sledgehammer and it'll be out before you know it... Pop the new stud in... Suck it in with the nut and a stack of washers and you're ready to roll.

It is very easy access on the back side so it will be a piece of cake.
Just make sure you don't mushroom the head of the old stud to much or you'll have to grind it down to get it out of the hold.

If you can't get a good hit on the stud use a big punch and a socket to keep the punch aligned on the head of the stud. A few good whacks and it will be out.

Jerrod

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Thanks so much Jerrod, especially for including the last photo for me. I like the idea of using a punch with a socket! I'll give that a go. I have a big metal hammer, but not a sledge...hopefully that will work.

David

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

You bet
You could tape the socket onto the stud if you find yourself fumbling with to many pieces to keep in place.

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[David-and-Cheryl]

Imo, Id get a reputable auto mechanic to do the job, they might even be able to chase the threads with the proper die and not even have to replace it. If not i wouldn't have any reservations about driving to a shop only 14 miles away.

Thanks. I don't think the threads on the stud are repairable, though - the metal is literally melted into a blob where the last three threads were, probably from forcing the old nut off. That socket was burning hot, so I'm sure the stud was too.

- - - Updated - - -

One more thought: assuming I can get the old stud out, how do I keep the hub from turning while I pull the new one through with washers and an old lug nut? If I pull the breakaway switch to engage the brakes, will the calipers exert enough force to hold the disc in place?

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Make sure to use a socket with a big hole in it. So the punch get to the stud.

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I would use an impact if possible.
Or a big pry bar ugeinst the ground to keep it from turning.
Or as you said the disc brakes should hold too.

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[David-and-Cheryl]

I would use an impact if possible.
Or a big pry bar ugeinst the ground to keep it from turning.
Or as you said the disc brakes should hold too.

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You're just awesome, Jerrod! Thanks!

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

My pleasure I hope it goes smoothly for you.
You never know... Luckily it fairly new so I think it will come out easily.

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[David-and-Cheryl]

My pleasure I hope it goes smoothly for you.
You never know... Luckily it fairly new so I think it will come out easily.

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It worked!! I used the smallest socket that would slide over the end of the stud. The punch I have was really too small, so instead I put a short socket extension into the socket, and confirmed that the head of the extension was flush with the inside end of the socket so that most of the force would be applied to the extension rather than the socket. I taped it all together like you suggested. My hammer was enough to get it barely loosened, but my neighbor had a sledgehammer, and a few blows with that knocked the stud the rest of the way out. The socket extension is a little dinged up where I was pounding on it, but still usable.

Now to get the new stud into the freezer to shrink it slightly, and then I'm off to the hardware store to get a handful of large washers.

Thank you again for the photo illustrations. They were incredibly helpful. Hopefully I'll get to meet you in person sometime and buy you a beer!

And any Heartland owner who's not a member of the Heartland Owner's Club just doesn't know what they're missing. This is such a great community. I hope I can pay it forward with others!

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Oh good to hear !!!
Your halfway there 😎


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[MTPockets]

I'm concerned about the hammering which can cause bearing brinelling, or putting small dents into the bearing raceway where the rollers contact. This small dent can then cause bearing failure. It's like a very small pothole in the road that once started gets big real fast from the constant rolling of the tires. That stud needs removed, but in a way as to not transfer the blow through the bearings.

 

[David-and-Cheryl]

Success! I froze the stud for a couple hours, and sprayed the inside of the hole with a little WD-40 (being careful not to get it on the rotor or calipers). I used a large nut as a spacer, and one of the old lug nuts to pull the stud through.



I was glad I used an old lug nut, because the tapered end of it wound up fused to the hex nut from the pressure.

I initially set my torque wrench at 120 lbs, the setting for tightening the lug nuts, but that wasn't quite enough to get the head of the stud seated all the way. It finally took 150 lbs of torque to pull the stud all the way through. I was VERY careful with that last 30 lbs to do just a little at a time, as visions of another stripped stud and having to start all over flashed through my mind.

Once the stud was fully seated, the lug nut/hex nut combination spun right off. Project complete. Thanks again for everyone's help.

I'm concerned about the hammering which can cause bearing brinelling, or putting small dents into the bearing raceway where the rollers contact. This small dent can then cause bearing failure. It's like a very small pothole in the road that once started gets big real fast from the constant rolling of the tires. That stud needs removed, but in a way as to not transfer the blow through the bearings.

That's a helpful explanation...all I'd seen before was "don't use a hammer", though there seems not to be much agreement on that. In any case, I already had the stud out by the time I saw your reply, MTPockets. Fortunately, it didn't seem to require excessive force to remove it, because the assembly was only three weeks old. That said, what would be the symptoms of impending bearing failure that I should watch for, just in case?

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Good job, I'm glad it worked out for you.
Let us know how that bearings looks when you repack them in 10'000 miles

 

[MTPockets]

That's a helpful explanation...all I'd seen before was "don't use a hammer", though there seems not to be much agreement on that. In any case, I already had the stud out by the time I saw your reply, MTPockets. Fortunately, it didn't seem to require excessive force to remove it, because the assembly was only three weeks old. That said, what would be the symptoms of impending bearing failure that I should watch for, just in case?

Heat... if the bearing had any damage, there would be a gradual increase in temperature as the damage increases. Use an infrared temp gun.. if the hub temp stays close to the other hubs after running several miles, you're probably good. If it runs a lot hotter, it needs replaced before a catastrophic failure strands you on the road.