New owner of Mallard M27 - 1st water fill (confused)

tones.ie

Member
Hi guys....im a brand new owner of a mallard M27. Picked up on saturday and is now parked in the yard. I was gonna start playing with it to try get used to everything before my 1st ever camping trip end of month.

So i have it in yard...Im assuming i need to flush system as its new?
I bought pressure regulatory for hose and hooked that to camper where it says "city water"...started filling and noticed water powering out of opposite side. Opened the vent and looked like a little plastic screw was not plugged in.
IMG_9297.jpg


IMG_9298.jpg


That plug was pretty **** hard to get in and turned...u can see its not fully screwed in all the way..should it be? what is that drain for? Its a pretty cheap looking plastic bolt !!

So as 1st time ...what is the step for me to fill up the camper...do i fill up until it spills out somewhere...im assuming there is an overflow id notice?
Do i then need to fully empty it out and repeat? Ive never owned a camper and im starting to think i may have bit off more than i can handle :(

There is a second input for water on opposite side..potable water?? do i need to fill this too and flush...should there be anything added to water??
Do i need to do anything to toilet system...drop water or chemicals in??

Love my new camper but feeling overwhelmed

Thanks in advance

Tony
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi Tony,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

I'm sure some of our other Mallard owners will jump in with some help for you soon.

Be sure and check out our Heartland Owners Club. Join us at a rally when you can and meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum and your new unit.

Jim M
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Tony,

The picture you posted appears to be of an Atwood Water Heater, which has a drain plug to let water out of the water heater tank so it can be winterized. When you turned on the city water feed, the first thing that would happen is that city water would fill the water heater tank. With the drain plug partly out, water would just run out.

Now that you have the plug in tight, the water heater tank should fill in a few minutes, after which, water should be available at the faucets inside the trailer.

Don't turn the water heater on until you're sure it's filled. There's a pressure/temperature relief valve, left and up from the center of your 2nd picture. When the tank is full, with the city water turned on, water will come out of that relief valve if you open it manually.

The fresh water holding tank is filled separately. While I'm not familiar with the layout of the Mallard, it's very likely that a water connection labeled Potable Water would be the connection for filling the fresh tank. Be careful not to overfill. Don't leave the hose unattended while filling. There may be a vent near the hose connection. When water starts coming out the vent, the tank is full. If you keep running pressurized water into the tank, you could cause damage.

Usually when you buy a trailer, the dealer does a walk through to show you how everything is operated. Sounds like that didn't happen in your case.

Fortunately, we have some owner-written user guides that you may find helpful. Here's a link. You'll definitely want to read the Water Systems Guide, which covers a lot more including use of the sewer system.

We also have a collection of manufacturer manuals that you may find helpful. Here's a link.
 

tones.ie

Member
Tony,

The picture you posted appears to be of an Atwood Water Heater, which has a drain plug to let water out of the water heater tank so it can be winterized. When you turned on the city water feed, the first thing that would happen is that city water would fill the water heater tank. With the drain plug partly out, water would just run out.

Now that you have the plug in tight, the water heater tank should fill in a few minutes, after which, water should be available at the faucets inside the trailer.

Don't turn the water heater on until you're sure it's filled. There's a pressure/temperature relief valve, left and up from the center of your 2nd picture. When the tank is full, with the city water turned on, water will come out of that relief valve if you open it manually.

The fresh water holding tank is filled separately. While I'm not familiar with the layout of the Mallard, it's very likely that a water connection labeled Potable Water would be the connection for filling the fresh tank. Be careful not to overfill. Don't leave the hose unattended while filling. There may be a vent near the hose connection. When water starts coming out the vent, the tank is full. If you keep running pressurized water into the tank, you could cause damage.

Usually when you buy a trailer, the dealer does a walk through to show you how everything is operated. Sounds like that didn't happen in your case.

Fortunately, we have some owner-written user guides that you may find helpful. Here's a link. You'll definitely want to read the Water Systems Guide, which covers a lot more including use of the sewer system.

We also have a collection of manufacturer manuals that you may find helpful. Here's a link.

Hi danemayer

Thank you soooo much!! That makes a lot more sense now...i mistakenly thought that while i was hooked up to the city water it was filling a "tank" somewhere. so city water is for when hookups are available and other side where the potable water is, that's for camping where no hookups are available. Makes sense now....

I was able to run water through the system and get rid of air pockets and then tested the water heater and all worked great. I guess tomorrow i should fill the potable water tank fully and drain a couple times to try clean out anything left from it being winterized??

Thanks again:)

@jimtoo Thanks for the welcome :)
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Normally the fresh tank does not get winterized, just drained. There should be a drain line with a 1/4 turn valve on it you open to drain the tank. Some of us use does leave a little water in the tank and add some bleach to keep down the nasty stuff that can built up when sitting. You would probably never get all the anti freeze out of it. Its the same for the H/W heater...never put any anti freeze in it.....just remove the plug to drain it.....but not went its hot or under pressure.
 

tones.ie

Member
Hi Bob&Patty

So when i fill potable water tank first time...then rinse out...then refill then i should add bleach and leave it in it? OR are you simply talking about when its going to be sitting there unused for a period of time?
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Sanitize with bleach. Some do not, but a simple thing to do and you don't have to second guess about the safety of what you are drinking. Don't store with bleach in the tank. If I am going to store my fifth wheel for any length of time, I sanitize my fresh water system. When I get it for use again, I do it again. Over kill, but my wife has a medically suppressed immune system.
 

olcoon

Well-known member
Here is how I sanitize the fresh water tank. I usually do it in the spring, and don't keep water in the tank unless I need it. I think what he was talking about was to put bleach in the tank if you are going to leave water in there for an extended period. I don't do that because of the weight.

Generally Accepted Method to Sanitize Fresh Water

The generally accepted method of sanitizing your RV's fresh water system as outlined below involves filling the fresh water tank with a solution of household bleach and running the solution through each faucet. Then letting it stand for at least three hours. Finally, flush the system once or twice to remove the taste and smell.
This procedure is one you'll find in most any book about RVing it tried and true but be sure to read on to find out what I do.
Start with a nearly full fresh water tank.
Turn the water heater off and let the water cool.
Dilute 1/4 cup of household bleach for each 15 gallons of tank capacity in to a gallon of water.
Add the chlorine/water solution to the water tank. (Never pour straight bleach into the RV fresh water tank. )
One faucet at a time, let the chlorinated water run through them for one or two minutes. You should be able to smell the chlorine. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)
Top off the RV fresh water tank and let stand for at least three hours over night is better.
Completely drain the system by flushing the faucets for several minutes each. Open the fresh water tank drain valve to speed up emptying the tank.and Open the hot water tank drain plug and drain until it is empty.
Close all valves and faucets and drain plugs.
Fill water tank with fresh water.
Flush each faucet for several minutes each repeating until the tank is again empty. (Make sure you are using the water pump and not an external water supply.)
Fill the tank again. The water should now be safe to drink but if the chlorine odor is too strong you can repeat the fresh water flush.
Your RV fresh water system should now be safe for use.
 
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tones.ie

Member
Does that water heater drain plug have to be plastic?? Is there a maybe a brass replacement that i could get or is that not recommended?
I'm not very convinced it'll hold up and could easily get the threads messed up...that and the fact its in the stupidest place and i cant get it fully screwed in.
IMG_9297.jpg

Also, where is the water bypass located for the heater for when its been winterized...cant see that anywhere

Thanks again guys :)
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
You could use a brass plug...don't see any reason why not. I would however put some anti seize on it.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Also, where is the water bypass located for the heater for when its been winterized...cant see that anywhere

Thanks again guys :)

You probably have 3 bypass valves on the inside where the water heater is located. I don't know the layout, but if you have pass through basement storage near the water heater, you probably have to remove the portion of the wall near the heater. Some models have access from the living area by way of a panel or drawer. Another Mallard owner may have to chime in.

There will be a cold water pex line going into the bottom of the water heater and a hot water pex line coming out the top. Each of those lines has a valve that has to be aligned with the pex (open) when in normal use, and they're closed to winterize. There's another pex line that connects to each of those lines, and has a 3rd valve. In normal use that valve is closed. When winterized that valve is open.

In the same area you'll find a tube, probably clear, that can be extended to reach a jug of RV antifreeze (not auto antifreeze). It will also have a valve. The other end is connected to the suction side of the water pump. When not sucking antifreeze into the pump, that valve must be closed or your pump will just suck air.
 
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