No Water through HOT water faucet, Cold water is fine

Davesig

Member
Hello everyone, I need some assistance.

I have read through many posts in this forum regarding this issue but still have a couple questions I hope you can help me with.

First, my situation... I have a 2017 Cyclone 4114 with an Atwood 10 Gal hot water heater (Model GC10A-4E). I have an Anderson 4-way Valve and a Hot Water By-Pass Valve. I'm hooked up to city water and all valves are in the correct position. (Pics attached)

Anderson Valve.jpgBy-Pass Valve.jpg

The issue...hot water runs fine, good and hot, good flow, then all of a sudden next time nothing. No flow through the hot water faucet. Cold water runs great. Turn it on and off a couple times (or wait a couple minutes and turn it on) and you hear a clunk sound and hot water runs freely. Also, hot water stops at all faucets, not just one or two.

I have read many posts that refer to a check valve on the hot water tank output, so I went out to look at that. Well, what I see is that there isn't one on the tank. I saw a small black plastic tube inline on the hot water output (pic attached). Could that be it? I can't think of anything else it could be. There is nothing else in line.

Inline Check Valve.jpg

Any assistance or other ideas would be greatly appreciated. I want to figure this out before it becomes a permanent issue rather than an intermittent one.

Thanks
 

danemayer

Moderator
Staff member
I think this is the check valve, circled in yellow. The black fitting may just be a way to transition from Pex to the flex hose.

You might try giving it a smack when the hot water stops flowing, to see if it starts working. That might be a good confirmation before taking things apart.

Inline Check Valve.jpg
 

Davesig

Member
Thanks Danemayer, I'll have to give it a try next time it decides to just quit again. Maybe I'll be able to feel it when it pops back on again because we can hear the clunk pretty good up in the bathroom.
 

Davesig

Member
UPDATE TO SITUATION:

Well it's happening still. I went and bought two new check valves to replace on both the cold water intake and hot water output. I disconnected the hoses and found the "check valves" to be glued in place. So I though, let me check out the valves quickly before trying to force them out. Come to find out, they're not check valves at all. They are simply pipe adapters. male-to-male adapter for the hose to the tank, there is nothing inside them at all. My screwdriver passed right through with no obstruction at all. So, I hooked everything back up again. Issue is still intermittently happening. You can hear a fairly loud clunk sound when the just before the hot water starts to run. Something opening, something switching on??? The sound comes from the area of the hot water heater.

Is there another location that a check valve may be?
Is there a separate water pump in the water heater that runs with city water?

Any other suggestions of what it could be?

Thanks, David
 

h2oskierc

Active Member
Could it be the thermal cutoff not making complete contact? Happening or work sometimes but not all the time?

I know almost nothing about these, but taking a shot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SNOKING

Well-known member
Could it be the thermal cutoff not making complete contact? Happening or work sometimes but not all the time?

I know almost nothing about these, but taking a shot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found it! It is the black plastic piece past the red hose. Chris
 

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wdk450

Well-known member
Found it! It is the black plastic piece past the red hose. Chris

Did the check valve have foreign debris in it?

Next time you are attacking this problem it might be time for a hot water heater flush-out, just to make sure there is no foreign debris in the heater. Calcium deposits are common and I clean out my system yearly (along with using an electronic de-scaler endorsed by Mike Holmes on the trailer incoming fresh water). With so much debris left in the trailers routinely during assembly there could be construction debris in the hot water system. You will need some large sockets the size of the heater element and sacrificial anode, along with a flusher hose adapter.

See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILZjQ6f0LFA
 

Davesig

Member
Finally got back inside the underbelly, been on the road moving a bit lately. Yes the check valve (cheap black plastic piece) did have some calcium rocks inside, probably from the last flush I did. Knocked the rocks out and it seems to be operating freely at this time. I put it back in for now, going to go buy a replacement brass valve. Hopefully that's all it was.

I just recently flushed my tank and it had quite a bit of calcium in it, so I'm sure some probably got up in the line to the valve. Newer model tank, so no sacrificial anode rod.

Thank you everyone for your input. Hopefully this question is closed. :)
 
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