Norcold 1210 Burner Cap

Short-Bed-Dually

Active Member
I see discussions on burner vent caps not being installed. I have attached pictures of my vent system. Does this look correct?
 

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  • Burner Vent 1 .jpg
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carl.swoyer

Well-known member
If your frig is in the slide it needs the cap. I even had some burning of the wood above. You can also pull the baffle up and out to inspect it. Do it slowly then reinstall. This would clear any unseen obstructions. Since putting my cap on the fridge is running perfect. Without the cap it had trouble staying cold. I also added two fans facing out of the top vent. I had to remove the aluminum baffle to dothe above.

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Short-Bed-Dually

Active Member
If your frig is in the slide it needs the cap. I even had some burning of the wood above. You can also pull the baffle up and out to inspect it. Do it slowly then reinstall. This would clear any unseen obstructions. Since putting my cap on the fridge is running perfect. Without the cap it had trouble staying cold. I also added two fans facing out of the top vent. I had to remove the aluminum baffle to dothe above.

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The refrigerator is in a slide. Where does the cap go? Where do I purchase one? What baffle are you referring to? Thank you
 

SLO

Well-known member
The refrigerator is in a slide. Where does the cap go? Where do I purchase one?

I too am wondering the same thing. I couldn’t find any reference to a cap in the installation or parts manual. I have been concerned about the heat from the burner that is vented into the back of the refrigerator cabinet and how to get it out of there


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danemayer

Well-known member
If operating the refrigerator on 120V AC, the electric elements generate heat. If operating on 12V DC and Propane, the burner generates heat.

In either case, wouldn't the heat rise and go out the upper exterior vent, aided by the fans?
 

carl.swoyer

Well-known member
The refrigerator is in a slide. Where does the cap go? Where do I purchase one? What baffle are you referring to? Thank you
The baffle is the aluminum sheet installed at the top vent. The cap I will try to get a picture of it when I get home. I'm in Georgia and I need a tall ladder to take a picture.

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carl.swoyer

Well-known member
If operating the refrigerator on 120V AC, the electric elements generate heat. If operating on 12V DC and Propane, the burner generates heat.

In either case, wouldn't the heat rise and go out the upper exterior vent, aided by the fans?
Dane,
The aluminum baffle is the sheet of aluminum in the top vent. Above that is .... A cavity that traps hot air. Since I put a cap on the stack and removed the sheet of aluminum and installed 2 6 inch fans facing out my 1210 now cold is working as efficient as a residential refrigerator. Setting 3 and 4.
When I get home to Florida I'll try to remember to send a picture of the mods. As you know I need a tall ladder.
An rv tech suggested that the absence of a cap was inhibiting the proper heating of the ammonia. Putting the cap on has made an incredible difference along with the fans and removal of the aluminum sheet.

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Short-Bed-Dually

Active Member
The baffle is the aluminum sheet installed at the top vent. The cap I will try to get a picture of it when I get home. I'm in Georgia and I need a tall ladder to take a picture.

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Thank you

- - - Updated - - -

Dane,
The aluminum baffle is the sheet of aluminum in the top vent. Above that is .... A cavity that traps hot air. Since I put a cap on the stack and removed the sheet of aluminum and installed 2 6 inch fans facing out my 1210 now cold is working as efficient as a residential refrigerator. Setting 3 and 4.
When I get home to Florida I'll try to remember to send a picture of the mods. As you know I need a tall ladder.
An rv tech suggested that the absence of a cap was inhibiting the proper heating of the ammonia. Putting the cap on has made an incredible difference along with the fans and removal of the aluminum sheet.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Thank you
 

carl.swoyer

Well-known member
Well here is the picture of the burner cap.
And underneath it is a clip that holds the baffle for the stack.( It's good to occasionally pull the baffle up and out to remove any rust or obstructions.) As you can see my fan are facing out where many of you have a piece of aluminum. So the factory fans are blowing air up and my two new fans are blowing air out.
Last year while in Angle Fires
100° weather we kept our nowcold on setting 3 & 4.Ice cold beer.
4d5342973a3d7819bd27330dac1af274.jpg
95e10054d5284b70bc376fbfcf2391fb.jpg


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Short-Bed-Dually

Active Member
Well here is the picture of the burner cap.
And underneath it is a clip that holds the baffle for the stack.( It's good to occasionally pull the baffle up and out to remove any rust or obstructions.) As you can see my fan are facing out where many of you have a piece of aluminum. So the factory fans are blowing air up and my two new fans are blowing air out.
Last year while in Angle Fires
100° weather we kept our nowcold on setting 3 & 4.Ice cold beer.
4d5342973a3d7819bd27330dac1af274.jpg
95e10054d5284b70bc376fbfcf2391fb.jpg


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Thanks for the pictures.

- - - Updated - - -

Yes
It slows the escape of the heat, and since putting it in its way more efficient than without.


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Where did you get the "burner cap""heat deflector cap"?
 

carl.swoyer

Well-known member
It looks like it is deflecting the heat, not closing off the top of the tube. Would that be correct?
Yes. It actually helps with the heating process of getting the ammonia to the best temperature. At least in my case it's the best performance update on the 1210

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