Norcold 1210

[carl.swoyer]

Just purchase a 2013 4 door norcold 1210 , just for the doors. 100 dollars.
I message her back and asked for the code she found.
Li op. I'm thinking I might have purchased a norcold that needs the magnet reset.

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[travelin2]

Just purchase a 2013 4 door norcold 1210 , just for the doors. 100 dollars.
I message her back and asked for the code she found.
Li op. I'm thinking I might have purchased a norcold that needs the magnet reset.

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I concur.

 

[rhodies1]

Just purchase a 2013 4 door norcold 1210 , just for the doors. 100 dollars.
I message her back and asked for the code she found.
Li op. I'm thinking I might have purchased a norcold that needs the magnet reset.

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Carl where do you hang your hat:What are you doing with this fridge: do you know why she sold the fridge: I’m looking for a cooling unit

 

[carl.swoyer]

Carl where do you hang your hat:What are you doing with this fridge: do you know why she sold the fridge: I’m looking for a cooling unit

I live in FL. Are you in NH? I decided to canabilze all the parts for backup.
I determined that this one had an ammonia leak.
Have you accessed the codes on your norcold. Is it leaking ammonia?
If it's not leaking then it is fixable.
I added 2 fans and replace the main circuit board.
What is yous doing or not doing.

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[rhodies1]

Some times it will get the fin temps down to 25/25 and the next time you look the temps up to 35/38 f. Freezer is working good. No issues,fridge works the same on 110 or propane.
No ammonia leak,I tested both fuses in control board,both tested ok( continuity check) fridge has thrown no codes.
I have 4 external fans on fridge which do kick in and out.
When I access the lower vent and feel the coils,the first 2 to 3 are hot and the ones above are only Luke warm, I’m starting to think it’s a partially blocked cooling unit. That means a replacement

 

[carl.swoyer]

Some times it will get the fin temps down to 25/25 and the next time you look the temps up to 35/38 f. Freezer is working good. No issues,fridge works the same on 110 or propane.
No ammonia leak,I tested both fuses in control board,both tested ok( continuity check) fridge has thrown no codes.
I have 4 external fans on fridge which do kick in and out.
When I access the lower vent and feel the coils,the first 2 to 3 are hot and the ones above are only Luke warm, I’m starting to think it’s a partially blocked cooling unit. That means a replacement

Ok disconnect the thermistor at the light for 24 hours, do not open the frig. Properly done is with the frig empty, but I've done it with the frig full. This will force the 1210 to run non stop. If your frig drops in temperature replace the thermistor. You can also ck the thermostat on the back top of the cooling unit, if its defectiveit it may not turn the fans on and off correctly. Its At the top right-side. That cycles the fans on and off at the appropriate temperature. My norcold is in the slide so I removed the aluminum baffle neat thermostat. And installed my extra 2 fans which are tied into the factory but facing out. I also put a cap? defuser on the stack. Hopefully this makes sense.BTW how did you go about pulling and interpreting the codes.?

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[rhodies1]

Ok disconnect the thermistor at the light for 24 hours, do not open the frig. Properly done is with the frig empty, but I've done it with the frig full. This will force the 1210 to run non stop. If your frig drops in temperature replace the thermistor. You can also ck the thermostat on the back top of the cooling unit, if its defectiveit it may not turn the fans on and off correctly. Its At the top right-side. That cycles the fans on and off at the appropriate temperature. My norcold is in the slide so I removed the aluminum baffle neat thermostat. And installed my extra 2 fans which are tied into the factory but facing out. I also put a cap? defuser on the stack. Hopefully this makes sense.BTW how did you go about pulling and interpreting the codes.?

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Already replaced thermistor I thought that might be my issue no change. Fans come on and off regularly The top fin cool at top of cooling unit us hit do that’s why the freezer works ok. It’s ghd
Lower coils that do not seem to be circulating properly. Send me your email address and ill
Send you z as good video on how to get your codes and clear them if you want to clear them up.. it will tell you if and what errors you may have in your fridge

 

[carl.swoyer]

I have the service manual, that's how I fixed mine. I guess I am stumped with your situation.
I also had a intermittent lp flo problem which once cleared I had much better performance. Sorry I can't help you. Have you pull the baffle from the flu to look for obstruction . Do you still have that aluminum baffle at the top outside vent. BTW I purchased the used norcold for the doors as my seals were shot.


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[rhodies1]

Yes.Im stumped as well..like I said sometimes it is ok...as an example if temp is reading 29 at fins and you open door to get something out,temp will quickly show 32 or so and takes a while to come back down again to the 29 range. The perfect fin temp is around 24,that will keep fridge inside temp st approx. 34 f just above freeezing.I have to rum fridge temp st 9 to achieve the fin temp of 29.
It’s looking more and more like a partially plugged cooling unit. I’ve asked the question from a guy I know at an rv dealership and he says these type of fridges usually do not clear themselves,not even taking it out and turning it upside down for a while, next years prinect.
Y
Thanks for your suggestions

 

[rhodies1]

Carl. I’ve noticed the following...when I set the fridge temp in 6/7 the fin temp runs around 29f and when I turn temp to 9 the fin temp will go down to 24 f.Now I’m wondering if it’s a faulty power board.Maybe it’s beginning to fail and not put out proper info to fridge.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Carl. I’ve noticed the following...when I set the fridge temp in 6/7 the fin temp runs around 29f and when I turn temp to 9 the fin temp will go down to 24 f.Now I’m wondering if it’s a faulty power board.Maybe it’s beginning to fail and not put out proper info to fridge.

When I retrieve my codes one of the codes was not sensing temperature. The fix was replaced the board.
Huge difference.
I used the service manual ( same one the technician uses) to diagnose mine.

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[rhodies1]

I’m thinking of changing it out

 

[carl.swoyer]

How did you get the codes?
I can send you the service manual

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[carl.swoyer]

Could you send me an email to
Carl_swoyer@yahoo.com.
I'll send you a copy of the service manual

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[rhodies1]

Rhodies@eastlink.ca