Slides stop before completing move

[KDNolte]

I picked up my unit from the dealer after it had been there for the winter for warranty repairs and when I went to lower the landing gear they would only travel a short distance before stopping. It took several attempts to lower all the supports. It was the same when I tried to move all the slides out. The unit was plugged in and the battery switch turned to on.
i pulled the batteries and had them tested, both were good.
Has anyone else had this happen?

Kirk

 

[cookie]

Welcome to this great forum Kirk. Lots of great information to be had here.
It sounds like you may have a weak breaker that protects the hydraulic pump.
Find the heavy red wire on your Trombeta (relay) that is on your pump. Follow it to the breakers. The breaker that it attaches to is the suspect breaker.
It is a 50 amp auto reset breaker and cost is under $10.

Peace
Dave

 

[KDNolte]

Welcome to this great forum Kirk. Lots of great information to be had here.
It sounds like you may have a weak breaker that protects the hydraulic pump.
Find the heavy red wire on your Trombeta (relay) that is on your pump. Follow it to the breakers. The breaker that it attaches to is the suspect breaker.
It is a 50 amp auto reset breaker and cost is under $10.

Peace
Dave

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll check out the breaker and see if the dealership has a replacement.

Kirk

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Like Dave said replace the 50amp circuit breaker first. Also check and tighten all connections at the batteries, the 3/8" nuts on all of the breakers, and the ground to the frame.
https://manuals.heartlandowners.org...ss_Bar/Heartland/Buss Bar Example Notated.pdf

If you find after awhile it starts doing it again you might want to consider replacing it with a manual reset 80amp breaker
https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/54076-Project-LM-365?p=533358&viewfull=1#post533358

 

[danemayer]

I picked up my unit from the dealer after it had been there for the winter for warranty repairs and when I went to lower the landing gear they would only travel a short distance before stopping. It took several attempts to lower all the supports. It was the same when I tried to move all the slides out. The unit was plugged in and the battery switch turned to on.
i pulled the batteries and had them tested, both were good.
Has anyone else had this happen?

Kirk

Hi Kirk,

Between noticing this problem, and removing the batteries to have them tested, is it possible there was enough time for the batteries to get charged? It's quite common for dealers to let batteries run down while in for repair. A depleted battery could account for the problem.

 

[KDNolte]

Can anyone tell me which is the breaker?
There are so many wires in this area that it is hard to trace back to the right breaker.
I had left the batteries on charge for two weeks and then tested them after they were charged. The auto reset breaker makes the most sense.

Kirk

 

[danemayer]

I've attached two photos showing different buss bar arrangements with rubber boot removed. You'll notice the battery positive cable comes in on one side and has a copper buss bar sharing the power across all breakers. You'll see 2 heavy cables on the other side. The position varies, but usually the battery cable and the heavy cable that goes to the fuse box/Power Converter are on the same breaker. The hydraulic breaker gets power from the copper bar on one side and has a heavy cable on the other side.

 

[jnbhobe]

I have a question Dan, do you know what the breaker on the far right is for?????

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

That should be the charge wire coming from the truck/pinbox

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[danemayer]

I have a question Dan, do you know what the breaker on the far right is for?????

It's interesting in that there appear to be 2 breakers involved. As Jerrod said, it's probably the wire to the truck/pinbox. Another possibility is the breakaway switch power to the brakes, but I think that one is connected directly to the battery positive terminal.

 

[jnbhobe]

I guess I'll have to research it when I get time, Just makes me wonder. Thanks Jerrod and Dan

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I have done so many changes to mine it's hard to tell what the factory had and what I've changed. So I can't really say exactly. I'm just guessing more or less.

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[KDNolte]

How can I verify that I have the right breaker? I am resistant to tear apart the entire breaker and buss bar assemble to learn I have the wrong breaker.
Any suggestions?

 

[danemayer]

How can I verify that I have the right breaker? I am resistant to tear apart the entire breaker and buss bar assemble to learn I have the wrong breaker.
Any suggestions?

Look at the pictures in post #7. Find the thick wires on yours. Usually the thick battery wire shares the manual reset breaker with the thick wire from the Power Converter. The other thick wire is usually the hydraulic pump.

One way to verify would be to disconnect the wire from the buss bar and measure resistance to the hydraulic pump power wire. Another way would be to disconnect it and try to operate the hydraulic pump. If the pump stays quiet, you have the correct wire.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

How can I verify that I have the right breaker? I am resistant to tear apart the entire breaker and buss bar assemble to learn I have the wrong breaker.
Any suggestions?

If your looking for the breaker going to the hydraulic pump you can trace it. It's the bigger gauge wire and you can follow it right up to the pump solinoid.
Also that brass bar connecting the 5 breakers together is slotted at each breaker so it will just slide out after you remove the 3/8" nut and the screws holding it to the wall. No need to disassemble the entire thing.

Hope that helps
Jerrod

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[KDNolte]

Thanks everyone, the auto reset breaker was the culprit.
Its situations like this that i am so grateful to have this forum to turn to.

Kirk