So where to begin???

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Tho the BC ons still in storage, she'll be coming home in a few weeks. Before she does, just trying to get my ducks in a row so I can hopefully zip thru them or at least those that I can do myself.

First thing I need to do is to determine where this problem lies. If you recall, last fall upon winterizing things, the anti-freeze (AF) was going into the water heater despite the Anderson valve being set in winterization position. Numerous attempts turning the valve didn't do a thing. So I ended up getting a bypass kit for water heater and it worked! IMO, I don't think AV is bad but have heard it does go ca-pooey. Original replacement is close to 90 bucks (plastic), but saw on another thread Anderson makes a brass one for 150. I found a place that sold exact same plastic one as AV's for like 25 bucks. It looks like it's a major PITA to get the AV out if this is the prob. Atwood water heater, so would it be best to replace any/all by pass valves as they seem to be the easiest to do? How do you know/tell if the AV is bad?

TIA gang!!
 

danemayer

Moderator
Staff member
First, doesn't your UDC look like this, with a water heater bypass valve from the factory, separate from the Anderson Valve?

UDC w bypass valve callout.jpg

The Anderson Valve, when set to Winterize, makes a connection between the water hose inlet and the fresh tank suction side. Then when hooking up a short piece of hose with the end in the antifreeze, the pump distributes antifreeze to the plumbing lines and fixtures (except the fresh tank).

I don't think the Anderson Valve would be involved in causing antifreeze to go into the water heater. But not using the bypass valve pictured, or the kit you installed, would do so.

Replacing the Anderson Valve entire assembly is very easy. All the connections on the back side just unscrew by hand and a few screws on the front side hold the assembly in place. The all-brass replacement is designed to slip in as a direct replacement. Given the number of cartridge failures that have been reported over the years, if you're going to replace, the all-brass version would be the one to go with.

A leaking Anderson Valve usually manifests by allowing city water to leak into the fresh tank, causing the tank overflows to spill water on the ground. Our Fresh Tank Fills by Itself guide details how to test for that. But since the only problem you mentioned is about antifreeze in the water heater, it doesn't sound like you need to go there.
 

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Dane, I'm 99.9% positive it is and has this lever, but still somehow even after flipping it, things didn't go as planned. LOL

In regards to the AV and PEX clamps, all the clamps seem to be in the way of unscrewing the ends from the AV itself. I agree that this should be a last resort as I'd like to attack the smaller/easier items 1st. That being any check valves at the water heater, bad bypass lever/valve etc. Once I get her home, what doing you suggest I do 1st? I currently still have the water heater bypass connected at heater itself (simple line that connects hot/cold lines together).

Sorry to be a PITA on this, but never having a AV before and no problems until last fall, bummed out.
 

danemayer

Moderator
Staff member
Dane, I'm 99.9% positive it is and has this lever, but still somehow even after flipping it, things didn't go as planned. LOL

In regards to the AV and PEX clamps, all the clamps seem to be in the way of unscrewing the ends from the AV itself. I agree that this should be a last resort as I'd like to attack the smaller/easier items 1st. That being any check valves at the water heater, bad bypass lever/valve etc. Once I get her home, what doing you suggest I do 1st? I currently still have the water heater bypass connected at heater itself (simple line that connects hot/cold lines together).

Sorry to be a PITA on this, but never having a AV before and no problems until last fall, bummed out.
A few years ago I had antifreeze going into the water heater even with the bypass valve in bypass position. While at the Goshen Rally that year, Heartland replaced the bypass valve for me. But, that didn't fix it. Turned out the check valve on the water heater outlet was stuck allowing backward water flow (and backward antifreeze flow).

Check valves are inexpensive and easier to deal with than the original bypass valve. I should have started with the check valve.
 

centerline

Well-known member
if you pull the handles off the valves, I think you will find they are cracked and spinning on the valve shaft..... this is more of a problem with the valves in my opinion, as they seem to get stiff to turn and can even stick....

I just went thru this on my trailer, and instead of paying $75 dollars a piece for new valves, I purchased( 2) 1/2" stainless steel 3-way "L" ball valves and installed.... for $35.
 

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Update..........I think !

So now that she's home, I just sanitized it with some weird results.

I replaced inlet/outlet valve on water tank (plastic one as store didn't have brass one).

Anderson valve needed and still need to use pliers in order to turn it, but switched to tank fill, then normal/dry camping. Filled up water tank w/ water from fresh tank. Proceeded to draw water thru lines and this is where it gets kinda weird. Cold water at kitchen sink AOK. However. NO water from hot side. Go outside and see about outside shower at docking station, same thing. Water bypass valve in normal position. Figured what do I have to lose right? Switch bypass valve to bypass and WOLLA water from hot side. Go back inside and water now flowing from hot side of things (cold still ok).

Another thing that was weird/odd is that I didn't get a Clorox odor from anywheres. Is it possible that it went south?? Have a RV specific bottle of it (doesn't get used for anything else and sits in garage all the time 365).

So Is my problem the bypass valve itself? Can I use things for now till I'm able to get to it/more time OR just leave things as is (in bypass setting) and take care of it come fall now that water is in system?

What about the no Clorox odor?

Thanks in advance. Off to the dentist.

NYS.

Update #2: In my haste, I failed to look at water flow arrow off old valve I took off the water heater, just the pipe tape thinking that was the flow......NOT, so will have to remove new valve and turn it around and put things back to gather again before I re-fill w/ fish water. Would this explain still the lack of Clorox odor??
 
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NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Clorox went south. Spend some big money and buy a fresh jug. Economy size 1/2 gallon .


Where's the like button??

When I came home from work this morning (about 4-5 hours ago, I flipped the vent valve on hot water tank to bleed off some water, then switched the check valve around. Did smell Clorox,but not a real strong one at that. Should I be ok for this year??

Once I switched the check valve around tho, things worked as normal w/ water heater bypass lever in Normal position.
 
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