We have a cover for our Landmark, I have used it a few times. Since we have started to camp more in the winter months(headed to Florida) we do not use it any longer and while taking the cover off is not a big deal. I have found that it is a pain to first try to get it on top of the rig by yourself. There is a pulley system that Camping World sells I think would make this an easier task.
I do understand the protection that a cover gives the unit however would not buy another one. If you have the room and the local ordnance will let you buy a metal shelter you can pull through or back in. This is the best solution IMO.
We used one for two winters on our first trailer. We also had the same experience with the small holes being rubbed on the roof edges, even with a snug fit the wind still cause movement that isn't good for the roof. It caused a leak that by spring had caused delamination spots. The cover also began to tear and almost dry rot by the second winter anyway, but the roof damage was enough for us...never again!
They are expensive and don't last long, usually one year. They are heavy, hard and time consuming to install, can't be installed tight enough to avoid wind damage to both cover and rv, and are not only unnecessary but create new problems. Over 35 years, I've had three covers for different vehicles and all were worse than worthless. I thought they would be better over time. They are only for use where there is no wind - typically indoors.
I'd love to put up a stationary overhang but the bid I got was $18k because of the weird way we pull the trailer in. It's basically a circular drive. Anyways the sun is taking a toll already on our 2010 cyclone. I just had to replace the 2 vent covers that wear brittle. So I need to find some solution.
We store ours in our yard also, no cover or car port. When we picked up our new one we talked to the dealer about the best way to battle the elements. In his opinion he felt the sun was the worst for the trailer and recommended we focus on keeping up with good roof maintenance. We clean 4 times a year with dish liquid (called Dicor and they recommended this) and then treat 2 or 3 times a year with a mop on UV treatment. After washing the siding we follow up with a good wax for gel coat, also with UV protection.
I pay for covered storage and on top of that have an RV detail company do a complete wash and Rejex application (detail) each Spring. Most RVs left in the elements here (Arizona) show sun damage within the first two years. Not to mention the dry rot of the roof and drying of cabinets and other wood items inside the RV. RV covers don't last long in this part of the world. They dry-rot fast.
No covered RV storage around here. I have the room to put in a canopy in my backyard and I can legally keep it here but the county I live in charges personal property tax on RV's garaged in the county, 4% of the value of the vehicle annually.
The next town over, Hampton, does not charge that tax, only the $20 annual registration. In Virginia taxes are based on where the vehicle is garaged so to save $2500 or so annually I won't store it in my yard. Storage is limited with the best location being right on the Chesapeake bay at a boat/rv storage lot but then I have to contend with the salty air.
They are putting in a new lot on the Air Base that should be open in about 6 weeks so will be putting it there then, still no covered storage though. That would be awesome!
Covers with elastic cords and non-scratch grommets help ensure that the product will stay in place in strong winds.Make sure that the material has reasonably large dimensions to encase the entire vehicle. Although it might be prudent to opt for expensive and high-quality covers, you should still consider the product’s price to avoid overspending.