Water in underbelly

Eddhuy

Well-known member
What is the best way to pull the coroplast down. I found it sagging today and there is water in there. I can remove the screws but there is also propane pipes going down the offdoor side that I'd rather not have to pull off or should I just go for it? Any other way of pulling it down would involve cutting the coroplast.

Not sure where the water came from yet, it was not there before the Temecula trip and there was no water leaking out while there or after I got back. The last thing I did with the water system was flush the black tank before coming home.

I have picture but for some reason, I am not able post them.
 

Wrenched

Member
We had the same problem in our 4100. Turned out that a loose fitting at the back of the fresh water inlet was leaking water that eventually found it's way down and pooled on the coroplast.
i would first check for leaks in the fittings above - the hot water tank also. You may solve the problem without having to remove the coroplast.
 

Garypowell

Well-known member
I would start with some area that is easy and then pull down and try to look inside. Obviously you want to get the water out first. Maybe carefully punch a hole. Once you can see you can run the water and maybe get an idea where the leak is from...then pull down where you need to.

I can can tell you can also cut access "panels" on 3 sides and then pull the coroplast down like a flap. This flap can then be "mended" by putting lath on top of coroplast and then screwing into it.
 

Eddhuy

Well-known member
Good ideas. I punched a couple of small holes in the coroplast at the low points to let water out, not a lot came out, maybe a quart. If I can find the source of the leak without having to pull it all down, I'll be a happy camper. I will definitely take a look at the back of the UDC.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
If you drove through any water or rain sometimes the water splashed up by the tires can get into the underbelly. If that is the case you may not have a water leak at all.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Jack, I agree with Jim. If you drilled a small hole in the low spot....I would watch for anymore leaks. If you still have a problem....go from there. How full is your freah water tank?
 

Eddhuy

Well-known member
I have not encountered any water on the road or otherwise. I opened it up behind the UDC, found the hoses for the fresh water and black water flush a little loose but not enough to leak. Hooked up fresh water and ran faucets inside and not seeing any leaks. Next will hook up black water flush and look at that.

I have my fresh water tank about 1/4 full and no signs of going down. I also did put a couple small holes in the low spots and will continue to watch for leaks.

I did discover a tangle of hoses and wires. That will give me something to do reorganizing it this winter.
 

TandT

Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
Jack,
It was good meeting you and Evelyn in Temecula.
Sorry to hear you are having problems. As others have said, I would keep my eye on the area behind the UDC.
This is where I have had a few leaks. I hinged the panel that I open to look behind the UDC with a piano hinge.

If you haven't already try hooking up your black tank flush. Check behind it to make sure there are no leaks. That is one area where I had a small spray.
I also had a pinhole in my ice maker water line that was spraying behind the refer and making it's way underneath when the slide was in.

With all the PEX fittings in these rigs, I would recommend buying a good PEX crimping tool and some 1/2" & 3/4" PEX connectors.
Check all the fittings you can access, with your crimping tool. I found some of mine to be loose.
If I pull a plastic fitting off for any reason, I replace it with brass. I would get a few 1/2" brass elbows, etc. and keep them in your PEX kit. JMHO Good luck. Trace
 
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Eddhuy

Well-known member
Thanks for the input, good ideas. It was our pleasure meeting you and Teri.

I did find a slow leak on the black water flush behind the UDC where the water line screws onto the hose connector. This is after hand tightening the fitting about a turn. I think replacing that fitting with brass is a good idea. I like your idea of using a piano hinge as well, I am going to make those changes today because I am off to Bodega Bay tomorrow morning.
 

Birchwood

Well-known member
Drop the coroplast as you will have to replace the wet insulation anyway.You should be able to see where the water is originating and if it has an odor.Fix the leak ,replace the wet insulation and reattach the coroplast.I have done this a couple times on my RV lot.
 

murry135

New York Chapter Leaders - retired
The coroplast is screwed into frame with self tapping screws. All you have to do is unscrew with either a ratchet or a drill with socket attached to it. Some areas may have sealant holding the edges to frame. Remove a few screws and see if you can continue without breaking sealant, if so keep going until you have enough loosened to check for water. I just removed mine from the front of our 2013 Landmark and there was water up there but it was coming from front of unit while driving in rain. Road water and wheel spray will get up there if not properly sealed. I just resealed and screwed back up. Make sure fiberglass insulation is dry, if so then it confirms roadway spray since there is a layer of foil between fiberglass and coroplast.
 
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