Water leak, no watering coach

[NYSUPstater]

So this is a brand new prob I've never dealt w/ before. Set up shop this past Fri night, hooked everything up and all weekend long no problem w/ anything water related. Today/this morning, breaking things down to leave, hook up sewer flusher hose and this is where things went bonkers.

1. DS came out to tell me that water was leaking across hallway floor from bathroom towards closet. Only water fixture there was the shower lines coming up from basement and yet no one took a shower.
2. Just prior to #1, I had attached and turned on the sewer flusher hose, but really didn't hear water running thru it.
3. DW says she didn't have any water at all at kitchen sink.
4. Tried removing the pressure reducer to see if that would make a diff. Nope.
5. Parks water pressure seemed to be ok all w/e, yet not so hot during this time and didn't seem out of the norm (not 100% full, yet quite a few open sites at same time).
6. Once home, removed the cover inside shower wall below handles and didn't see anything too put of place except what looked like to me some odd emittance valve, but no traces of water on wall.
7. Needed to grease the sump, so while underneath the coach, I pushed up the coral-last as it seems saggy in a few places and a little water came out towards driver's side between tires and that was it. Still many saggy spots remain.

So I pose these things to you all to see what y'all think.

 

[Bogie]

Could it be possible the supply line ruptured between the sewer flusher connection and the back flow preventor?

 

[rhodies1]

Sounds like the black tank flusher behind the opening in the shower wall failed. They are only a cheap plastic valve.

 

[travelin2]

Well I’d say the line or admittance valve in the line for the black tank flush failed but I don’t get why the DW said she had no running water.
Without exploring behind the basement wall it’s anyone’s guess

 

[NYSUPstater]

Thank you for your thoughts on this.

As for the possibility of a ruptured water line, the basement area was still dry which puzzled me. If a water line broke, would that explain why the DW didn't have water at kitchen sink? I thought the flusher line was attached directly to the black tank (thru a back flush valve) . Personally I dislike the coraplast used under the coach and would rather see the plastic panels as used on other brands......but that another story. Would make it a whole lot easier to gain access to things underneath IMO.

Where do I begin to look for anything out of the ordinary? Or take it to a dealer whose labor rate is $160/hr?

Will be unable to work on the coach to see what's going on for a couple weeks.

 

[rhodies1]

As we all know there is not great pressure to the kitchen sink at anytime. If the admittance valve failed then it’s certainly possible that the flow at the valve if it failed.. would not allow much water to the kitchen sink if any. Your issue certainly sounds like it has to do with the black tank flusher because all was good until you hooked up and started using the flush.
I never trusted this set up and have stopped using my black tank flusher. I have purchased the Valterra black tank flusher which hooks up to your dump . I back flush my tank in this fashion. It is far far more efficient than the one built into the trailer. It’s amazing how clean you get get your tank with this type of flush. When I’m finished my black tank monitor shows green.

 

[travelin2]

As we all know there is not great pressure to the kitchen sink at anytime. If the admittance valve failed then it’s certainly possible that the flow at the valve if it failed.. would not allow much water to the kitchen sink if any. Your issue certainly sounds like it has to do with the black tank flusher because all was good until you hooked up and started using the flush.
I never trusted this set up and have stopped using my black tank flusher. I have purchased the Valterra black tank flusher which hooks up to your dump . I back flush my tank in this fashion. It is far far more efficient than the one built into the trailer. It’s amazing how clean you get get your tank with this type of flush. When I’m finished my black tank monitor shows green.

On a side note…I back flush the black tank using the grey water. It is interesting how much more this cleans the black tank then using just the installed back flush connection

 

[travelin2]

Thank you for your thoughts on this.

As for the possibility of a ruptured water line, the basement area was still dry which puzzled me. If a water line broke, would that explain why the DW didn't have water at kitchen sink? I thought the flusher line was attached directly to the black tank (thru a back flush valve) . Personally I dislike the coraplast used under the coach and would rather see the plastic panels as used on other brands......but that another story. Would make it a whole lot easier to gain access to things underneath IMO.

Where do I begin to look for anything out of the ordinary? Or take it to a dealer whose labor rate is $160/hr?

Will be unable to work on the coach to see what's going on for a couple weeks.

Instead of removing the coroplast underneath I’d remove the basement wall. In our BH I can observe the tank flush line and all of the fittings behind the UDC by doing so.
If you witnessed water running out from underneath after hooking up the flush you must certainly have a leaking fitting

 

[JohnDar]

Undoubtedly the anti-siphon valve has self-destructed up in a wall cavity. If you’re lucky, it’s located behind a removable plate in the shower. Unlucky, it’s hidden in a wall cavity behind and above the toilet with no direct access. From personal experience, it’s a poorly designed piece of molded plastic crap just waiting to fail.

The lack of water pressure in the kitchen is not surprising since the flow will follow the path of least resistance. That being the open line due to the ASV free-flowing.


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[NYSUPstater]

Undoubtedly the anti-siphon valve has self-destructed up in a wall cavity. If you’re lucky, it’s located behind a removable plate in the shower. Unlucky, it’s hidden in a wall cavity behind and above the toilet with no direct access. From personal experience, it’s a poorly designed piece of molded plastic crap just waiting to fail.

The lack of water pressure in the kitchen is not surprising since the flow will follow the path of least resistance. That being the open line due to the ASV free-flowing.


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I believe you are 100% correct on it's location behind shower wall.....but little means of getting to it to replace it. Spoke w/ our old RV dealer service mgr who said the same thing as you and his suggestion is to remove door trim/wall trim and wall panel to get to it. Really didn't look at it real real close, but not sure if HL attached it w/ PEX fittings or turn knobs (hope the latter). Plus being where it it, not sure if I can get in there thru access port w/ my hand and do anything even if it should have the turn knobs. Unable to work on it for a cple weeks due to coach being dropped off to get it's new roof this Sat.

 

[rhodies1]

I believe that the piping with the valve is flexible enough to stick out the opening in the shower wall. I know mine is. I have been able to look at the piece of garbage but did not remove it. As stated. Don’t use it anymore. I went with the external flush.

 

[Bogie]

Two possible approaches.

If you have access to the BFP (backflow preventer) from the shower (usually by removing the shower faucet plate). You can cut the PEX, pull it out and when putting in the replacement, use shark bite connectors. Just don't mix up the lines as water only flows one way through the BFP.

You may be also be able to access the lines for the BGP from below in the basement. Same process. Cut the lines, pull the BGP down, repair and push it back up. PEX is reasonably flexible. Reassemble with shark bite fittings.

 

[JohnDar]

If you are able to replace it, find a brass one. The Sharkbite idea is a good one.

When ours in the 3670 blew, it was behind the toilet, not the shower faucet. Remedy was to grab the lines to it and pull it down into the basement. Cut the junk off and used a Sharkbite one way check valve as a replacement. Secured it to the underside of the bedroom floor. Although RVIA wanted it above the toilet, that wasn’t going to happen. Above the black tank was good enough for me.


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[NYSUPstater]

Update:

So I got the brass valve but to install it required having to remove trim molding and bend back wall panel in hallway (behind shower). The brass valve already had a rubber inserts as I couldn't figure out at 1st why it wouldn't connect to the water line. DUH ! LOL. Once it was all connected, put things back in place and at last minute took the rig on a trip this past w/e. Happy to report that the sewer flusher worked well and no water leaks. Have a cple more trips planned thru Oct so will keep fingers crossed.

A HUGE THANK YOU for suggesting the brass valve as the plastic one I orig bought still sits on top of computer desk.