For an RPBG, most certainly Yes.If the problem is in the pedestal, would a non contact voltage tester light up near the metal pedestal?
You first need to confirm there's a low resistance connection from the frame of the RV all the way to the ground pin on the shore power connector. It should measure less than 1 ohm from the RV frame to the primary shore power plug's ground pin. Then plug in any dogbone or pigtail adapters, and measure again. Any increase in resistance tells you theres a break in the safety ground.Just got an email from the owners and they said the electrician just left and the 30 amp plug was OK. Will go back up on the weekend and check it out and let you know what we find.
Rick
Rick,
This is very dangerous and I would recommend that you disconnect from shore power until you figure out what's wrong. In addition, a non-contact voltage tester from Home Depot or other hardware store will let you check for voltage without actually touching the trailer. A good one is about $20. Skip the $7 variety.
If the trailer skin is electrified, there are most likely TWO problems. Something in the trailer has a short circuit, AND you're missing a ground path. Because of the missing ground, the electricity that normally would be routed through the ground connection instead is electrifying the trailer skin. Then when you touch the skin, you're providing a better path to ground. You could be seriously injured or worse.
Just ordered 10 of these from Amazon @ $15.27 delivered. Will add them to the door prize pool for the Goshen rally.
Thanks Jim, you left 3 in stockJust ordered 10 of these from Amazon @ $15.27 delivered. Will add them to the door prize pool for the Goshen rally.
Bookmarked!!!!Great idea, Jim. I think you should also include copies of my NoShockZone article on how to use a NCVT to find an RV hot skin voltage.
See http://www.noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-part-iv-%E2%80%93-hot-skin/
I'm seeing more Plug in GFCI's at campground on larger units of all kinds lately,
Are you sure those are plug in Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters you are seeing or Electrical Management System (Like Progressive black box) devices?
I couldn't find a corded GFCI from the online RV suppliers I checked, and ended up having to make my own with RV 30 amp connectors from a resource I found on the internet. My GFCI cord and box are bright yellow. The EMS may or may not cut off the power for a potential shock condition, and truthfully the GFCI might not cut off the power until a shock accident starts. But in the first 1000th of a second when someone is getting shocked the GFCI WILL cut the power. As soon as the current flow in the hot supply wire does not equal the current flow back into the neutral return wire by within 5/1000 of an ampere, a relay shuts off the supplied current.
Thanks Jim, you left 3 in stock
Home Depot lists these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...1SEN/100661787?keyword=NCVT-1SEN#.UYp-UaKG0tg
I'm seeing more Plug in GFCI's at campground on larger units of all kinds lately,
Are you sure those are plug in Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters you are seeing or Electrical Management System (Like Progressive black box) devices?
I couldn't find a corded GFCI from the online RV suppliers I checked, and ended up having to make my own with RV 30 amp connectors from a resource I found on the internet. My GFCI cord and box are bright yellow. The EMS may or may not cut off the power for a potential shock condition, and truthfully the GFCI might not cut off the power until a shock accident starts. But in the first 1000th of a second when someone is getting shocked the GFCI WILL cut the power. As soon as the current flow in the hot supply wire does not equal the current flow back into the neutral return wire by within 5/1000 of an ampere, a relay shuts off the supplied current.
FYI: There are NO GFCI's on the market that will disconnect the safety ground wire during a "trip" (that's according to code), so if you're plugged into an inline GFCI outlet, it can't disconnect you from a RPBG (Reverse Polarity Bootleg Ground) or a Reflected Hot Skin Condition from daisy-chained pedestals at a campground that have lost their bond connection back to the service panel. This problem is being corrected in the newest version of the NEC, but all previous installations are grandfathered in. So don't expect your local campground to rip up all the pedestal wiring to correct this anytime soon.
Also, I'm not saying that a system GFCI isn't a good idea, when it's an EXCELLENT one. Just that it can't detect or disconnect your RV from a hot-ground pedestal. A disconnect of the safety ground is not allowed by code, so it's not going to happen.
Be aware that you might experience random GFCI tripping if you happen to have any "surge protected" power strips in your RV. It's little known that most MOV based (surge protected) power strips will dump about 2 or 3 mA into the safety ground, and it only takes 6 mA of current to trip a residential GFCI. So the two power strips inside your RV can cause your external GFCI to trip whenever it feels like it. That could explain a lot of seemingly random GFCI tripping.
Suggest you include a one page "how-to" handout with each one on how to use it correctly. If people read the whole jmsokol article its all in there but I know a lot of people won't read more than 100 words at a time The cliff notes one pager would be something like this: Note - there are more steps that can be used to check for wiring problems at the shore power outlet that could be added to this flow chart but this would be the minimum.... 1) put the non-contact tester in your pocket (does no good if in the camper) 2) Plug in shore power cord - don't touch the RV anymore yet ! 3) If you use surge guard with time delay, wait for the delay to occur and power to be applied thru the surge guard, then continue 4) Stand on ground by RV with hand all the way around the non-contact tester and press its test button 5) Place the tip close to any metal on the RV like the door or the step 6) If the thing lights up and makes noise then there is voltage on the skin and don't touch ! 7) If nothing then you should be OK - just to make sure the tester is really working you can hold the plastic tip next to the narrow outlet prong on your outdoor 110V outlet
Be aware that you might experience random GFCI tripping if you happen to have any "surge protected" power strips in your RV. It's little known that most MOV based (surge protected) power strips will dump about 2 or 3 mA into the safety ground, and it only takes 6 mA of current to trip a residential GFCI. So the two power strips inside your RV can cause your external GFCI to trip whenever it feels like it. That could explain a lot of seemingly random GFCI tripping.
Mike and all:
I was once staying at a small campground near Seattle, and because all of the 30 amp RV sites were taken, they put me in a 20 amp GFCI outlet tent/RV site. I had problems with my Apollo microwave tripping the GFCI (not the circuit breaker). I found that moisture generated during microwaving was causing enough leakage current within the microwave to trip the GFCI. Drying out the microwave solved the problem.
Mike,
You were originally recommending this tester;
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EJ332O/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Still good to go?