PDA

View Full Version : Shine on camper



baseball5
03-02-2012, 10:27 AM
We have a 2009 Sundance 5th wheel that we bought used. It really shined when we got it, but we cannot get it to shine like that any more. What is recommened to wash and wax the exterior to make it really shine? We have used different wash and wax combows, it cleans it but does not really make it shine. If we wax it, can I used a wobble buffer on it, (it's not a high speed buffer) I really don't want to get up on a ladder and wax it, my wife fell off the ladder washing it and broke her wrist last year. Any help would be great. Thank for your time.

Jimmy
03-02-2012, 10:44 AM
"ICE" spray and wipe wax from Walmart...

jpjulian
03-02-2012, 10:52 AM
We drop the tailgate to the truck and back up to the nose cap to wash/wax our Bighorn. We use Liquid Glass. It is specially formulated for fiberglass. It shines very well and makes cleaning bug splashes easier than with a regular wax formulation. Warning, Liquid Glass isn't cheap. About $25 from Pep Boys auto parts store.

jj

krhyde
03-02-2012, 11:07 AM
We have a 2009 Sundance 5th wheel that we bought used. It really shined when we got it, but we cannot get it to shine like that any more. What is recommened to wash and wax the exterior to make it really shine? We have used different wash and wax combows, it cleans it but does not really make it shine. If we wax it, can I used a wobble buffer on it, (it's not a high speed buffer) I really don't want to get up on a ladder and wax it, my wife fell off the ladder washing it and broke her wrist last year. Any help would be great. Thank for your time.

shoudn't her wrist be healed by now?

PUG
03-02-2012, 11:43 AM
Sounds like you have a little bit of oxidation. You need to first use a buffing compound (all auto parts stores) that comes in course, medium, or light abrasion. I would try the medium if the oxidation is bad. This will remove the oxidation and smooth the paint out for polishing. Next get some high quality waxing compound. I use Maguires Tech 2. It stays on better than the old type of waxes like carnuba. Once a year takes care of it nicely. As far as washing, I use a combination wash (does not take wax off) that is mild and also has a wax in it to give it a little extra protection. I use the combination RV Wash and Wax found at Camping World and Wal Marts. When washing squeegee the water off to help stop the water spotting. Paint and fiberglass requires maintenance to keep it looking new.

TeJay
03-02-2012, 01:04 PM
As already mentioned I also like ICE. I've waxed and buffed vehicles for 40 years and found ICE to apply easy and did not smear as some others do. But not every product that works for one will work for another. It's really a trial an error method. If you choose to use a rubbing compound start with the lightest abrasion. If you don't need med or heavy then don't use it. Buffing compounds are very labor intensive and it probably removes some of the surface coating. If you need the buffing compound because you have oxidation then the surface is probably already compromised and it will require the rubbing compound then a good surface coating. Try a small area that it is not to noticeable first. If you find something that you like then you'll know how labor intensive it will be. 303 is also a good product. It's expensive ($65-GAL) but a little goes a long way. You can also get it at most camper supply stores or on-line. Remember that anytime you use a buffer and/or rubbing compound you will remove some of the surface coating. That's OK but don't get to aggressive because you can remove to much of the surface. All you are trying to do is to remove the surface oxidation so be careful. Once it's removed then apply your surface coating, wax, 303, ICE or what ever works the best. Hope this helps.
TeJay