Appropriate Tire Changing Tool for 2014 Road Warrior 425

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richiek

Member
Hello All:

Thanks in advance for any thoughts advice on this topic. We own a 2014 RW 425 and are preparing to embark on our first long trip this season (Indiana to Myrtle Beach) and I've been researching tire changing tools to take with us. The yellow ramps don't appear to be fit for the job (per some on the boards) and others have recommended a jack. Would a DIY small ramp made out of 2x8's work you think? Or is a jack the way to go? If so why is your configuration? Thanks again.

Richie
 
avvidclif

avvidclif

Well-known member
Good Sam Roadside Assistance and 4 spares if you still have the Blowmax tires.

Correction 6 spares.
 
Bob&Patty

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
I used the yellow ramp and my BH crushed it. I don't know if having 3 axles if any ramp would lift one wheel/tire off the ground so you could change a tire. A 10 tn jack and lots of cribbing could be used. One question though....don't you have 6 point leveling?? If so, it will most likely lift the trailer to change a tire.
 
Lou_and_Bette

Lou_and_Bette

Well-known member
When we had our RW405, I used a 20 ton bottle jack thatI got on sale at Harbor Freight. Put the jack on the frame behind 3rd axel and easily raised the front tire off the ground. One tool I highly recommend is the Ryobi 18 volt 1/2"impact driver. Takes my lug nuts which have been torqued to 120fpi off very easily. Works well on TV also.
 
F

farside291

Well-known member
X2 on the battery powered impact wrench and 20 ton bottle jack. Have some 2X 6s to put the jack on for extra lift. I was also told by a RV repair facility to never place the bottle jack under the axles tubes. Because of the weight of our RVs they will crush the axle tubes. I never proved this but I always lift at the frame if possible. Of course all this was before Level up. Now just use the Level up system to lift one side with the trailer hooked to truck for added stability.
 
Gaffer

Gaffer

Well-known member
TRSS238_7_1000.jpg

You can place a saddle under the axle for a safe jack point. It will fit between the u-bolts. Some have welded them to the top of the bottle jack
 
danemayer

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi Richiek,

If you have the original tires that came with your RW, and they're Towmax, before you go on your next trip, you should get new tires. Check the inside of your rims to see if they're stamped 3750 lbs or 110 psi. If so, you can put on either Sailun S637 or Goodyear G614s. You'll want to check the outside diameter to make sure the new tires will fit.

With Sailun S637 or Goodyear G614, your chances of having to change a tire will be dramatically reduced.
 
Jv75353

Jv75353

Well-known member
danemayer said:
Hi Richiek,

If you have the original tires that came with your RW, and they're Towmax, before you go on your next trip, you should get new tires. Check the inside of your rims to see if they're stamped 3750 lbs or 110 psi. If so, you can put on either Sailun S637 or Goodyear G614s. You'll want to check the outside diameter to make sure the new tires will fit.

With Sailun S637 or Goodyear G614, your chances of having to change a tire will be dramatically reduced.
Click to expand...

The Goodyear G614's diameter is slightly smaller than the Towmax tires if that's what you have on your rig they also cost more than the Sailun's. The Sailun tires are about an 1 inch larger in diameter than the Towmax tires which will reduce the clearance between the tires by 1 inch. Beware that the clearance can change (increase/decrease) when maneuvering the trailer into tight spots or camping sites. Just don't go by the clearance as measured when your parked with the trailer and tow vehicle parked straight.
 
IronJ

IronJ

Well-known member
1. Right size DEEP 5 point sock8et
2. Impact or long handle 1/2 ratchet bar
3 level up (easy way)
4 bottle jack (not as easy way)
5 Small compressor
6. Plug/slime (temporary fixes only)


Before level up I would use a block of wood under the u bolts (no axle compression)...worked fine for 10 random years of maintenance???

sent from space via an invisible beam from a flying metal dish
 
D

donr827

Well-known member
r.lewis said:
Which roadside service is the best, Good Sam or AAA?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I always have had good luck with Good Sam. When I had a flat awhile back GS was there in 30 minutes. The driver took off the tire, broke in down, and put a patch on it.
Don
 
S

szewczyk_john

Well-known member
The one item that I carry that no one else has listed yet is a 1/2 drive breaker bar. I also have a 2 foot piece of lead pipe that fits over the handle of my breaker bar. Placing the pipe over the last few inches of breaker bar handle gives me almost 4 or 5 feet of leverage to bust the lug nuts loose. I also use "never seize" on the studs to prevent frozen lug nuts. I carry an air powered impact wrench to use with my air compressor. Picked that up at a flea market pretty cheap.
 
rxbristol

rxbristol

Well-known member
szewczyk_john said:
The one item that I carry that no one else has listed yet is a 1/2 drive breaker bar. I also have a 2 foot piece of lead pipe that fits over the handle of my breaker bar. Placing the pipe over the last few inches of breaker bar handle gives me almost 4 or 5 feet of leverage to bust the lug nuts loose. I also use "never seize" on the studs to prevent frozen lug nuts. I carry an air powered impact wrench to use with my air compressor. Picked that up at a flea market pretty cheap.
Click to expand...

If you use never seize on the lug nuts it will create an under torque value by as much as 20%.

- - - Updated - - -

r.lewis said:
Which roadside service is the best, Good Sam or AAA?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Coach-Net offers some of the best road-side assistance available for bigger rigs.
 
SNOKING

SNOKING

Well-known member
Are you sure that is not an over torque? Things like lube or anit seize reduce the fricion on the threads. Chris
 
travelin2

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
I too was told many years ago not to use anti-seize on lug nuts. As for adding a pipe to a breaker bar to remove the wheels lug nuts, if the lugs can't be loosened with a 2' foot breaker bar and they are the aluminum capped lug nuts, most likely adding a 4' foot piece of pipe will snap the aluminum cap off first, then what?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
avvidclif

avvidclif

Well-known member
travelin2 said:
I too was told many years ago not to use anti-seize on lug nuts. As for adding a pipe to a breaker bar to remove the wheels lug nuts, if the lugs can't be loosened with a 2' foot breaker bar and they are the aluminum capped lug nuts, most likely adding a 4' foot piece of pipe will snap the aluminum cap off first, then what?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


The lug nut is steel, the aluminum cap is just that, a cover, nothing else.
 
IronJ

IronJ

Well-known member
And that's why I use a deep 5 point socket on those lugs...a short one will eventually slip on the aluminum sleeve and round it off...and you don't want anythjng on the threads...the torque value is a DRY torque value...

sent from space via an invisible beam from a flying metal dish
 
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