I'm having trouble with my thermostate on '07 3500 Big Horn. It runs for about 5 min then won't come back on unless I go all the way down and then back up. This is on my heater have not tried A/C too cold for that. Wondering if anyone has had similar problem and can tell me what I need to do. I have changed them out in my house before, is this the same or must I go back with exact same kind. I would appreciate some quick response since my wife is tired of being the manuel thermostate (you men know what I mean). Thanks Roy
rdctx, many of us have changed our t-stats to digital ones. Hunter brand from Wal-Mart seem to be very popular. This may help you. http://www.rverscorner.com/hunterstat.htm
Peace
Dave
Peace
Dave
Shadowchek
Well-known member
Sounds like your problem is that your heater is locking out do to overheating possibly due to not having enough air flow. When you turn it all the way down it turns it off and resets it. Take it to your dealer to have them check it out.
Greg
Greg
Last edited:
Change out thermostat
Thanks very much for help it is great to have good people like you to turn to. roy
Thanks very much for help it is great to have good people like you to turn to. roy
Thanks for the information I will look into that. roy
Problem Solveed
You need gas for thermostate to work properly. Yep had two bottles run off of one until it's empty then switch. I tested gas with stove for minute thought I still had gas. Decide to do simple things first and turned on second bottle and zap problem solved thanks for help everyone. roy
You need gas for thermostate to work properly. Yep had two bottles run off of one until it's empty then switch. I tested gas with stove for minute thought I still had gas. Decide to do simple things first and turned on second bottle and zap problem solved thanks for help everyone. roy
Ray LeTourneau
Senior Member - Past Moderator
I think it's great that you came back and stood tall with your oversight. What a guy. We do like our Hunter t'stat though. If you're new to the RV lifestyle, try keeping the valves on both bottles open at all times. You will run off the bottle that the switch over valve is pointing to. When that bottle runs out, just flip the valve to the other bottle and close the valve on the empty bottle and remove it for filling. When you replace it, open the valve slowly or you'll trip a safety valve within the tank. Run off the other tank till empty then repeat the process. The main thing is to keep a close eye on the regulator so you can tell when a tank is empty.
htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
Gas Flow Issue
I had a problem here in Wyoming a couple of months ago, with my heater not cycling back on. I was in panic mode, thinking my furnace was out of commission! (Thanks, again, Jim B. - for the assist!)
The furnace had locked itself out because it never lit. Ended up being a lack of gas pressure. I rented a large tank from a local dealer. He installed a non-adjustable regulator on his tank and connected his hose to my ODS hose, which also has a regulator. This is piped over to the DS -where the auto-switching regulator (now the 3rd regulator in-line) is located. It seems that I was only running off my DS 30lb tank, instead of the rented 120lb external. Too many regulators between the external tank and the end device were just knocking down the pressure too much.
I lit all 3 burners on the stove and turned them on high - which only appeared HIGH. As soon as the furnace attempted to light, it knocked the burner flames down to @ 1/4", and never lit the furnace. After a couple of times trying to light, it locks itself out. Since the thermostat is still calling for heat, you have to turn the thermostat down and back up to do it all over again.
I had the propane guy install a "T" and a valve downstream of the auto-switching regulator and connect his hose there. Been working great since. I now keep both my 30lb tanks OFF and keep propane in the external one. With mine FULL, if I ever run out of the external tank, I'll close the valve by the "T" and turn on my small tanks. Oh, my burners actually turn on HIGH with the proper pressure, too!
I had a problem here in Wyoming a couple of months ago, with my heater not cycling back on. I was in panic mode, thinking my furnace was out of commission! (Thanks, again, Jim B. - for the assist!)
The furnace had locked itself out because it never lit. Ended up being a lack of gas pressure. I rented a large tank from a local dealer. He installed a non-adjustable regulator on his tank and connected his hose to my ODS hose, which also has a regulator. This is piped over to the DS -where the auto-switching regulator (now the 3rd regulator in-line) is located. It seems that I was only running off my DS 30lb tank, instead of the rented 120lb external. Too many regulators between the external tank and the end device were just knocking down the pressure too much.
I lit all 3 burners on the stove and turned them on high - which only appeared HIGH. As soon as the furnace attempted to light, it knocked the burner flames down to @ 1/4", and never lit the furnace. After a couple of times trying to light, it locks itself out. Since the thermostat is still calling for heat, you have to turn the thermostat down and back up to do it all over again.
I had the propane guy install a "T" and a valve downstream of the auto-switching regulator and connect his hose there. Been working great since. I now keep both my 30lb tanks OFF and keep propane in the external one. With mine FULL, if I ever run out of the external tank, I'll close the valve by the "T" and turn on my small tanks.
Oh, my burners actually turn on HIGH with the proper pressure, too!
alaska dodge
Well-known member
furnacne not putting out hot air
I just uncovered my big horn 3370 and am getting ready to use. It is currnetly -18f here and I have 2 full propane bottles. I started my furnace yesterday (-7F)and it was working ok(putting out cool air), the RV never got above 32f. Sometime in the night the temp went to -18F and now the heater is not working. Also should my heater of heated the rv up to a warmer temp? Do i need to keep the propane bottles warm or is my 5th wheel heater bad? I am now keeping the bottles warm and the heater is running but not putting out heat, i am also going through a 30lbs bottle in 9 hours and the rv never gets warm. Any help would be appreciated, I went to the heaters manufactures web site and they said that my rv might be in lock out! not sure what that means, thank you for your help and have a happy holiday.
Bill
I just uncovered my big horn 3370 and am getting ready to use. It is currnetly -18f here and I have 2 full propane bottles. I started my furnace yesterday (-7F)and it was working ok(putting out cool air), the RV never got above 32f. Sometime in the night the temp went to -18F and now the heater is not working. Also should my heater of heated the rv up to a warmer temp? Do i need to keep the propane bottles warm or is my 5th wheel heater bad? I am now keeping the bottles warm and the heater is running but not putting out heat, i am also going through a 30lbs bottle in 9 hours and the rv never gets warm. Any help would be appreciated, I went to the heaters manufactures web site and they said that my rv might be in lock out! not sure what that means, thank you for your help and have a happy holiday.
Bill
htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
Brrrrrr!
It was my understanding that when it "locked out" it would quit blowing - due to not lighting the furnace. At that time you would have to turn the thermostat down and back up in order to start the cycle again.
The fact that you are going through 30lb in 9 hours tells me that the furnace is lit, therefore - not locked out. Not sure how it is lit, using propane by the hour, and still not blowing warm air. It certainly should be warm air blowing out.
The temp here has been down to -18˚ with wind chills to -40˚ and, although the furnace ran quite a bit, it was blowing warm air. I turn the furnace to 75˚ and let it take the chill out, then turn it down to @ 68˚. It cycles just fine - but frequently!
It was my understanding that when it "locked out" it would quit blowing - due to not lighting the furnace. At that time you would have to turn the thermostat down and back up in order to start the cycle again.
The fact that you are going through 30lb in 9 hours tells me that the furnace is lit, therefore - not locked out. Not sure how it is lit, using propane by the hour, and still not blowing warm air.
It certainly should be warm air blowing out. The temp here has been down to -18˚ with wind chills to -40˚ and, although the furnace ran quite a bit, it was blowing warm air. I turn the furnace to 75˚ and let it take the chill out, then turn it down to @ 68˚. It cycles just fine - but frequently!
jpmorgan37
Well-known member
If the coach is -18* F, it is going to take quite a bit to warm it up. HT had done a lot of extra insulating and added the skirting all around which will make a large difference. Questions I have to ask are have you done extra insulating, under skirting, do you have dual pane windows, sealed roof vents and sky lights. You will have to do some extra work to be able to maintain your coach at a comfortable temperature, once you get it there. I did it in Minnesota a few times, but used lot's of propane and supplemental heaters to get it warmed up. Just some food for thought.
John
John
leftyf
SSG Stumpy-VA Terrorist
I did it in Ohio a couple of years ago...all I can say is thank God for hay bails
alaska dodge
Well-known member
I have a custom skirt made for it, but i have single pane windows. What else can i do to insulate it?
htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
Winterizing!
I, too, have only single pane windows - they didn't offer dual-pane when I purchased. As jpmorgan mentioned, I added insulation above the underbelly...at least 2" everywhere possible. That and the full skirting certainly helped. Keeps that cold wind out from underneath.
I, too, have only single pane windows - they didn't offer dual-pane when I purchased. As jpmorgan mentioned, I added insulation above the underbelly...at least 2" everywhere possible. That and the full skirting certainly helped. Keeps that cold wind out from underneath.
leftyf
SSG Stumpy-VA Terrorist
What type of insulation did you put up there?
htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
Cyclone Insulation
They are Owens Corning, 2" thick, 4'x8' sheets. Purchased at Home Depot for @ $35/sheet. And they're pretty pink, too!
The only places I could not add this - was under the fresh H2O tanks. They came all the way down to the frame. All my tanks have heaters and I added a heat barrier/wrap to all of them also. Cyclone's staying warm so far - wind chill 18 below this morning! The skirting is an AWESOME investment!
They are Owens Corning, 2" thick, 4'x8' sheets. Purchased at Home Depot for @ $35/sheet. And they're pretty pink, too!
The only places I could not add this - was under the fresh H2O tanks. They came all the way down to the frame. All my tanks have heaters and I added a heat barrier/wrap to all of them also. Cyclone's staying warm so far - wind chill 18 below this morning! The skirting is an AWESOME investment!
