Anderson brass valve froze up

[Dumboldles]

I noticed that this topic has been brought up before but wanted to hear from folks that are smarter then me.
First day out this year pulled into camp ground started doing the routine set up. Got to switching the valve from winterize to city and could not make the switch. Decided to get some pliers and of coarse broke the handle off. Not a great start for a month long vacation.

Was able to get some plumbing parts from a local big box store and rigged up something so we have hot and cold water to continue our adventure.

I did spend most of one day checking out trailer supply stores in the Salt Lake metro area and not able to find an Anderson valve. I would think that this part would be somewhere reasonable to find with our the need to go through Anderson and have to wait two weeks or so sending the broken part and them sending out a replacement.

Dumboldles

 

[danemayer]

You'll probably have to buy the all brass retrofit valve assembly. It's plug and play. Hopefully they're not still backordered.

 

[Dumboldles]

I should have mentioned on my earlier post that it was an all brass unit that froze. I replaced the original plastic valve with the brass about a year one/half ago.

 

[danemayer]

I'd suggest calling Anderson Brass to discuss with them. I believe they have a 5 year warranty on the all brass retrofit and they might be very interested in seeing your unit to do a failure analysis. Customer service: 843-616-4625

 

[SLO]

The new Anderson brass valve is less likely to bypass, like the original valve did. But, it is hard to turn when it has not been exercised in several months or longer. That’s the same with any angle stop, ball valve, code cock, etc. when it’s set idle for a long period of time. I made up a custom tool to turn mine.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[cbramsey]

Do you have a picture or a drawing of this custom tool that you would be willing to share? I am running into the same issue with our all brass Anderson Valve. I was considering removing the existing plastic pointer and replacing it with something like a ball valve lever handle similar to this one. Ball Valve Lever Handle

 

[Dumboldles]

Thanks for the replies. I’ll take care of this issue after we make it back to home base. I have informed Anderson about the issue. From now on I’ll make it part of checking on my rig to give the handle a turn. Here’s a photo of my system that hopefully gets us through our trip.

 

[SLO]

Do you have a picture or a drawing of this custom tool that you would be willing to share? I am running into the same issue with our all brass Anderson Valve. I was considering removing the existing plastic pointer and replacing it with something like a ball valve lever handle similar to this one. Ball Valve Lever Handle

Simple tool. 1” PVC coupler glued onto 1” PVC pipe (I used conduit that I had), notched end of coupler to go around Anderson handle. Other end of pipe is the same setup but notched for tension knob on awning arm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[travelin2]

Now that it’s broken I’d plumb me in a manifold and chuck the Kant leak valve
Just saying

 

[RoadJunkie]

I also helps to remove the water pressure on the valve prior to moving it.

 

[cbramsey]

@SLO , thank you. Very inexpensive and effective tool.

 

[Lost_my_beer]

Slight hi-jack..sorry.
Are these valve supposed to be super hard to rotate? Mine has been since new (2020 Cyclone). I just assumed so, but niw I am afraid I may snap it. Any link to a direct replacement that is better? Or are they all like this?
Thanks,
Troy

 

[SLO]

Whatever you do, don’t try to lubricate the new brass valve with WD-40. That will lock it up way tighter than is is now. Actually don’t try to lubricate it with anything. In the old valve the cartridge could be removed and lube or replace. I don’t think the new brass ball valve is able to be disassembled.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[danemayer]

Anderson, for the older plastic valve assemblies, recommends lubricant as follows: "The rotor needs to be reinstalled using a food grade grease like Dow Corning 111 with liberal amounts at each seal interface." I spoke with their rep a few years ago and he was very specific about Dow Corning 111 and warned against using grease or other lubricants where crud from the water supply could stick to the o-rings and cause excess wear. Here's a link to one on Amazon.

I'm not aware of any recommendation for the all brass valve assembly.

 

[SLO]

Anderson, for the older plastic valve assemblies, recommends lubricant as follows: "The rotor needs to be reinstalled using a food grade grease like Dow Corning 111 with liberal amounts at each seal interface." I spoke with their rep a few years ago and he was very specific about Dow Corning 111 and warned against using grease or other lubricants where crud from the water supply could stick to the o-rings and cause excess wear. Here's a link to one on Amazon.

I'm not aware of any recommendation for the all brass valve assembly.

I used Dow Corning 111 for many, many ,many years in the plumbing trade for faucet/valve repairs. I would buy it in the larger grease gun tubes and dispense it with a grease gun. It’s good stuff.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[BigFry]

Our brass Anderson valve replacement is very hard to turn. We fulltime so it isn't sitting unmoved for long periods of time. I have found that if I turn it toward "winterize" first (counterclockwise) then turn it to "tank fill" it is much easier to turn.

 

[Zamora]

We found that the valve rotates easier if you first relive the water pressure and opening an inside faucet.

 

[donr827]

Zamora, we were told the same thing.

 

[smesack]

I've tried relieving the water pressure, opened a faucet inside, tried turning to winterize first and I am still stuck. Am I going g to have to replace the handle?

 

[Dumboldles]

May need to replace the whole valve system unless you can get it unstuck. Seems to be a design flaw that, I’m sure, we are going to see many others in the future with the same problem.

Dumboldles