Black Tank Flusher Leaking on 3600RE

[rad11]

Everytime (3 times now) I have used the black tank flushing system, I immediately get water leaking out onto the stool room floor and then onto the floor in front of the entrance door. Yesterday, I removed the wall panels in the storage bay that allow access to the plumbing/wiring/etc to trace the water line as it goes from the flusher input (back side of the Universal Docking Station) and eventually into the black tank. The water line first goes over to the door side of the coach and then up into the wall cavity of what is the back wall of the stool room (same wall as the one immediately on your right as you enter the coach). A second line comes down from that wall cavity and then goes down to the black water holding tank. I then turned on the city water to the flusher and immediately heard (and then saw) water spraying and running out the bottom of that wall cavity. My first question is why does the line go up into that wall cavity. I don't see any way or reason for that line to be connected to anything related to the black tank in there. I removed the fire extinguisher holder from right inside the entrance door and that allowed me to use a mirror and flashlight to see partway up into that wall cavity, but I couldn't see the problem. I tried to pull on both lines (the ascending and the descending one) to see if I could just pull them out of there, but, even though I could move them both up and down 2" or so, I couldn't pull them all the way out. I'm guessing that there may be a fitting up there that is loose or maybe a screw that pierced the line. I have a call in to Gary S. at Heartland, but on other issues I have had where I needed answers from HL, his responses were brief and slow in coming.

Anyway, my question to you guys is: Can I just cut the water line before it goes up into the wall cavity, then cut the line that comes out of the wall cavity and simply spice them together, thus cutting the problem/leaking fitting out of the line altogether?

Thanks in advance for any guidance/insights you have.

 

[jbeletti]

Roger,

I believe there is a vacuum breaker in that line up the wall. You could splice around it as a temp fix but my sense is that it needs to be in the line to meet RVIA guidelines (for a black tank flush system) and perhaps for proper operation. It is likely cracked or perhaps has debris in it. Wait for the call back from Gary. He'll get it figured out for you.

Jim

 

[rad11]

Thanks, Jim. I did just talk to Gary S. at HL and he said that there is an anti siphon valve (asv) up in that wall and that it is placed there to get it above "flood level", meaning above the level of the faucets, etc.

He is sending me a replacement anti siphon valve and I will do whatever I have to do to get the faulty one out of there and replace it with this one. I'm hoping I can do the splices with screw-type hose clamps. I'm guessing the existing connections are pex and I don't have that tool.

I'm still not sure why I couldn't just cut the flushing system water line and just insert an in-line asv since I don't believe this water line has anything to do with the fresh water system lines (why would that asv have to be above the level of the faucets?).

 

[Forrest Fetherolf]

Roger,

If you can't replace the vacuum breaker in the wall, bypass it with a hose coupling and add a vacuum breaker to the inlet of the santi-flush hose connection. This item is used on home hose bibs...........not allowing water to siphon back into domestic water supply.

Forrest

http://www.conbraco.com/products/products.asp?sub=14

 

[rad11]

Thanks, Forrest, that's the approach I was thinking about.

 

[irvin56]

Hose 1/2 pipe

I have a NT 31qbs. I have used the flush a few times and did not seem to work that good. I went back to my old flush system.

(All steel) Hose bib, shut off valve, on top of a 3 foot (1/2 inch pipe), a 90 degree elbow. Then I put a 1/2 to 3/8 bushing on end. I used a bushing because it's short and will fit down the toilet. Can rotate 360 and does a good job.

I've drug a hose inside of my old prowler, so I'm use to it. No big deal for me.

Great for an extention when washing outside trailer, digging stuff out of box of truck (without having to crawl in), also from under trailer(fish for hoses, extention cords and other stuff blown under.

Can say it's multi purpose also

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Roger, thanks for your post. Now I understand why the vibrating noise, which I assumed was the anti-siphon valve, was halfway up the wall in the corner of the poop room. Good luck with your re-fit. Your dealer may have a pex tool you can borrow. Ours has let me use his whenever I've needed it. Take care,

 

[ChopperBill]

I guess I would just by-pass that sucker. Seen lots of problems with that valve. What I can see of my hose it goes strait to the bottom of the coach and I presume to the tank. It is not like you are going to keep the water hose hooked up indefinitely. When you are done with your chore just unhook the hose.

 

[MMToo]

I believe the recent "codes" national, city whatever, require some type of anti backflow in all water connections and that is why it is there. But it sure can cause problems. The first time I used the flush system we had water just about the same. We had a second leak in the same line at an elbow which put a stream right into the converter. That cause a 23 volt AC to be on the 12 volt DC line which in turn killed the battery. We made a 600 mile round trip to the dealer and all was taken care of.

 

[superduty08]

I just had the same problem with my '09 3055 BH. I have used the flush several times without a problem but this time I had water flowing from out of the stool room wall into the kitchen floor, storage area and pouring from the belly. I also noticed that my battery was draining while hooked to AC so I figure my converter also got soaked. My problem is that my dealer can't get to me this week and I'm to leave for a 2 week trip at the end of next week. He told me that he would look at it the day after labor day so that I could get it back in time for my trip. Can the converter be replaced with whatever he stocks or does Heartland's warranty only allow a certain brand? I can only hope that I will not have a parts delay. Other than a couple of minor things this is the first real problem that I have had. I am going to request that the vacum break not be mounted in the wall but maybe at floor level of the stoolroom to give better access.

 

[MMToo]

HI Superduty,

My converter was easily replaceable. It has a standard AC plug in and the DC out put wires a screw tightened. The safest way to change it out would be to dissconnect the batteries, make the change red to red, black to black. etc and reconnect batteries and plug the unit in. On my 3055 BH it was very accessable.

Steve

 

[superduty08]

Thanks, I have all of the little warranty things fixed and my convertor should be here 9/2 and we will be ready for our 2 week vacation at Camping On The Gulf in Destin, Fl where we back up to the beach. We hope all of these hurricans don't run us off as they have occationally done in past years.