Cam lock dimensions

[SeattleLion]

We want to replace our CH751 cam locks. I can't believe Heartland uses them. Even our inexpensive Kodiak used G locks. Anyway, our coach is at the dealer for a while. I figure that while waiting for the weather to dry up (our yard is flooded where we store the coach) I could order new cam locks. Unfortunately, I need some critical dimensions. I wonder if someone with a 2014 or maybe a 2013 BH could help. We have the 3610 EL, but I am sure the cam locks are the same for all BH. We want to replace the front compartment and basement locks as well as the cord retract compartment locks.

What I need are:

1. The cylinder length. This is the length of the threaded part from the back of the key area to the front of the cam. It is probably the same for the three compartments and shorter for the cord retract hatch.

2. The cam length from the center of the hole to the furthest point on the end.

If the cam is offset (I don't recall that they are), the depth of the bend. The measurement sheet I am using is http://www.ch751.com/docs/orderform.pdf.

The locks are ACE locks, very secure. They aren't very expensive and seem quite excellent. They are from Industrial Lock & Hardware.

Thanks

 

[cookie]

Are you saying that your Bighorn does not have the slam baggage doors for the basement?
They do not use the 751 key.
Another thing to consider is that if you put a new lock on the cord real door the lock will be worth more than the plastic door.
No security there.

Peace
Dave

 

[jbeletti]

Dave,

I think even the Slam Latches may be 751 now. I know my outdoor entertainment door is now 751 and never used to be.

 

[SeattleLion]

Are you saying that your Bighorn does not have the slam baggage doors for the basement?
They do not use the 751 key.
Another thing to consider is that if you put a new lock on the cord real door the lock will be worth more than the plastic door.
No security there.

Peace
Dave

The slam doors I was told during my walkthrough are the 751's. I will verify, but I am pretty sure that's true. I know that the little plastic door on the cord retract is not secure in any way. I just want to avoid using 2 keys. In my last TT the proliferation of keys drove us nuts. This time I am trying to simplify. I've ordered the RVLock V4. If the key for it is a "G" like the current coach door, if I want, I can order cam locks with the same key. However, the ACE locks are way more secure for the basement and front compartment. Even though I live in WA, I am a native New Yorker and the idea of anything less than great security bothers me. Also, the door lock that HL puts into the coach have a common key that every RV dealer can use. The deadbolt is a bit more secure, but there are such a small number of key combinations that it is pretty easy for anyone who wants to get in to do so by buying maybe 50 keys. The ACE locks have thousands of combinations.

Since we keep valuable stuff in the basement and front compartment I want to do a bit more to protect them.

 

[jnbhobe]

I changed all my locks from 751's and now have Mor-Ryde locks and ace, only two keys. But the main thing to remember is that locks only keep honest people honest.

 

[wdk450]

I am in the midst of a camlock repair on my storage compartment door. I didn't like the camlock rotating inside the soft door composition wood, so I tried supergluing it in place. BIG MISTAKE!!! The lock kept rotating, but the nut was securely glued to the lock threads, and the lock key cylinder was fouled with superglue. Getting the old cylinder off was about a 2 hour job that finally had me drilling out the key cylinder and inside of the lock body to get to free the outside nut. The panel wood took a lot of denting around the lock until I got it out. Now what to do with the messed up panel? I got out some J.B. Quick epoxy and some duct tape. I applied the epoxy liberally to the dented up inside surface near the lock, then applied duct tape over it to flatten the surface. Then I got on the outside surface to apply epoxy through the lock hole to the remaining spaces on the bottom side of the panel inside the duct tape. I let the epoxy cure, then drilled it out to fit the new lock cylinder securely. Guess what? The epoxy is hard and tight, a great surface to mount the new lock cylinder to.

BTW, the existing cylinder lock body measures 1-1/8 inch from the back side of the flange to the end of the threads.The key cylinder protrudes another 1/8 inch beyond that. The arm to the key cylinder is 1-1/8 inch long, and offset back 1/8 inch (flattened Z).

 

[SeattleLion]

Thanks so much! By the way, if you get the ACE locks, they sell a backing plate that will cover some of that damage. I am off to order my locks! Thanks.

 

[TravelTiger]

We had our basement broken into at our storage lot, so we went with combi-cams on all the locks and ones that had the turn tab without a lock. They use combination instead of a key. I like they keyless feature, but it does take a little longer to get them open.

http://www.combi-cam.com
(See left side of home page).

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk