Changing Out House Batteries

[djpjkglg1199]

I own a 2020 Landmark 365 Oshkosh Model. I have two new batteries in hand to swap out the totally dead original Batteries. What is the safest way to pull out the two old batteries and to replace them with a new set?

Can I simply use the two RED BUTTONS inside the CONTROL CENTER and that will safely remove energy flow to the system? OR, should I unplug the coach or trip the Main Breaker? My wife has a broken arm and will want me to leave the power flowing to the inside of the RV. She will want the refrigerator running, and so would I.

OR, am I better off cutting the power off from the Converter/Inverter unit? If so, how can that be done safely?

Thanks as always for your help, Everyone.
DJ

 

[Bogie]

No need to unplug or shutdown the AC to the coach. You should he able to shut down the AC to the converter from a breaker in the RV main panel. As the breakers are often mislabeled, verify the converter is in fact shut down with a volt meter. If the batteries are dead as you say, the voltage across the batteries should drop significantly.

Disconnecting the batteries will affect ALL 12 volt circuits. Lights, heater, possibly refrigerator or the inverter for the refrigerator if you have one.

Take a picture of the cables before you start, just in case. If you have two 12 volt batteries they would be connected in parallel. If you have two 6 volt batteries, they would be connected in series. If you don't know which you have, and the difference between the two configurations, STOP and find someone who does know before proceeding.

Remove the negative cable to the batteries first. To insure safety you can wrap the end with electrical tape to insulate it.

Remove the positive terminal. Wrap it as well.

Replace the batteries.

When reconnecting, connect the positive terminal to the battery first, then the negative terminal.

Once complete, don't forget to turn the converter back on.

 

[djpjkglg1199]

Yes, I have replaced ten sets of Deep Cycle and Engine starting batteries in my many Diesel Pushers....and, as you suggested, I took pictures of the COVER part as our front Bay has a VENTING COVER for wet cell Deep Cycle Batteries.

Before I forget this, look up THERMOIL: https://thermoil.com/ This is a direct link! The stuff WORKS for the cheaper 12 and 6 volt House batteries that require Maintenance (adding distilled water).

Now, my story is short but thrilling in how it works. Back in 1999, I found Thermoil by doing a search, "prevent Deep Cycle Gassing." This is a real problem. TO THE RESCUE: THERMOIL!

I did not like the price (over $20!). SO, I did a search and a guy at a Diesel RV forum, just like OURS here, answered my question: WHAT IS THERMOIL MADE FROM?

Answer, which surprised me: MINERAL OIL with coloring. SIMPLE OVER THE COUNTER MINERAL OIL that you can find at a Walgreens.

So, I bought one pint, and the way to add it is this (be very patient):

1. Let your Batteries GAS OFF some of the Acid OR simply extract some with a battery tester (with tube).
2. Do not remove MUCH, and just enough to see the fluid drop below the TUBE marker (the bottom of the Fill tube in any Deep Cycle Battery that requires maintenance (not maintenance free, of course).
3. I can leave our RV for 3 to 6 months, depending on their age (the older they get the worse the gassing, right?).

The Mineral oil or Thermoil simply SLOWS DOWN the gassing process and you will find that you will be adding way less water if any at all, depending on your chosen maintenance intervals, and the GASSING PROBLEM IS SOLVED.

You will thank me later for this tip.

Now, the batteries that were in the Landmark that I just replaced were cheap crap from Performance of Arizona.

 

[djpjkglg1199]

No need to unplug or shutdown the AC to the coach. You should he able to shut down the AC to the converter from a breaker in the RV main panel. As the breakers are often mislabeled, verify the converter is in fact shut down with a volt meter. If the batteries are dead as you say, the voltage across the batteries should drop significantly.

Disconnecting the batteries will affect ALL 12 volt circuits. Lights, heater, possibly refrigerator or the inverter for the refrigerator if you have one.

Take a picture of the cables before you start, just in case. If you have two 12 volt batteries they would be connected in parallel. If you have two 6 volt batteries, they would be connected in series. If you don't know which you have, and the difference between the two configurations, STOP and find someone who does know before proceeding.

Remove the negative cable to the batteries first. To insure safety you can wrap the end with electrical tape to insulate it.

Remove the positive terminal. Wrap it as well.

Replace the batteries.

When reconnecting, connect the positive terminal to the battery first, then the negative terminal.

Once complete, don't forget to turn the converter back on.

Your instructions, by the way, are PERFECT! Well done. This should be posted in a HOW TO SECTION of this site.

I will also add a trick to my methods: I put ELECTRICAL TAPE on my 3/8 inch DRIVER Handle and my Ratchets when doing battery work. In that way, I prevent arcing if I happen to slip while installing my cables.

The COVER for the batteries was a bit of a pain, but I have a Makita Bit driver to make it faster and I even tightened the nuts on the terminals with a swivel socket extension.

I have a blue collar Background from learning Mechanical Work from my Dad who was an expert even though his real job was in HVAC service. My older Brother and I could change out a rear end in less than an hour in his '62 Impala with a torque monster 396 cu. inch engine with 411 gears.

 

[wdk450]

Your Thermoil reference sounds good if it works for you.

The Progressive 9200 series charger/converter that my older Bighorn has, includes their Charge Wizard desulfation cycle that runs for about 15 minutes every 24 hours. It applies 14.5 volts to the battery system during this cycle to reverse the effects of battery plate sulphation. I stay fullltime in RV parks. but my batteries have lasted a long time.

Charge Wizard, 4-Stage Battery Charging System

Patented Charge Wizard 4-stage battery charging system. Shown to increase RV battery life by 2 to 3 times or more.

www.progressivedyn.com