Dying domestic 1350??

[J_hurst369]

I have a 2012 3685 bighorn. Over the last 3 weeks or so I noticed one day that the temp on the refrigerator was about 48°. I figured it was in defrost mode and let it be for awhile. After 4 hours it was up to 53° so I shut it off and turned it back on. And went to bed, woke up in the morning and it was 55°. So I shut it off again and checked the heaters and all the electrical mumbojumbo domestic says to check and found nothing wrong. After all that it had been off for about 45 minutes and I turned it back on and it cooled down and ran perfect for about 6 days and did the same thing. I shut it off and let it sit for 45 minutes and this time turned it back on in gas mode. Cooled right down and worked perfect for another 6 days and guess what same thing..... is it time for a fridge mod to a home fridge or am I over looking something. It's the rm 1350 domestic 4 door with ice maker.

 

[boatto5er]

My 2011 RM 1350 exhibited the same behavior. I now have a Samsung RF18.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[J_hurst369]

My 2911 RM 1350 exhibited the same behavior. I now have a Samsung RF18.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes ive been looking into that but if I can avoid having to buy an 1000.00 fridge I will. My other question is when you go to a regular fridge how do you wire the inverter to work while traveling? Also what do you do with the gas line once the old rv fridge is removed? Just screw a cap into the copper tube? Also will any counter depth fridge fit or what are the measurements of the 1350 with the drawer below removed so I can look into different refrigerators?

 

[boatto5er]

I rerouted the old fridge electrical line to the "out line" of a new automatic transfer switch. I ran a new power line from the main panel circuit breaker to the ATS "shore power in" line and ran a line from the inverter to the "alternate power source in" line on the ATS. Ran new battery lines from my parallel batteries to the inverter. I can have the inverter and shore power both on at the same time. The ATS will switch to shore power automatically when that is detected. It switches to inverter when we are on the road. Now that we're in a spot for a couple of months, I turn the inverter off unless we are going to be gone a long time (like several hours).

I don't have the exact dimensions, but if you look up the Samsung RF18, it's dimensions are pretty much what will fit.

I capped off the gas line. There was just enough room to leave it behind the fridge.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[J_hurst369]

I rerouted the old fridge electrical line to the "out line" of a new automatic transfer switch. I ran a new power line from the main panel circuit breaker to the ATS "shore power in" line and ran a line from the inverter to the "alternate power source in" line on the ATS. Ran new battery lines from my parallel batteries to the inverter. I can have the inverter and shore power both on at the same time. The ATS will switch to shore power automatically when that is detected. It switches to inverter when we are on the road. Now that we're in a spot for a couple of months, I turn the inverter off unless we are going to be gone a long time (like several hours).

I don't have the exact dimensions, but if you look up the Samsung RF18, it's dimensions are pretty much what will fit.

I capped off the gas line. There was just enough room to leave it behind the fridge.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thabks for the info. What ats did you use?

 

[boatto5er]

Here's what I put in.

 

[J_hurst369]

So can I just plug the fridge into the plugs already there from the old fridge and then splice an inverter into that line as well and when I disconnect from shore power and turn the inverter on it still works at that one outlet? Or where is the best place to splice in the inverter power?

 

[boatto5er]

You need to keep the main AC panel fridge circuit breaker in the loop. shore power comes into the main panel. It goes from the circuit breaker to the ATS and from the ATS to the fridge outlet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[boatto5er]

Power for the inverter comes directly from the battery bank. The inverter is wired directly to the ATS.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[J_hurst369]

Power for the inverter comes directly from the battery bank. The inverter is wired directly to the ATS.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok thanks. And I assume I can get to all this from the back side behind the pass thru storage wall?

 

[boatto5er]

Should be able to. The circuit breaker panel can be accessed from inside the RV, then the current fridge wire and new wiring to the ATS can be pushed/pulled through the back area of the cargo bay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[boatto5er]

My old fridge wiring was long enough to reach my new transfer switch with adding any additional wiring. Yours may not be long enough.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[J_hurst369]

So before I go blowing a bunch of money on a new fridge and inverter is there any thoughts on what is causing the current one to do this at only 4 years old?

 

[boatto5er]

I never was able to pinpoint my issue. I put in additional fans, tried modifying the baffle at the upper vent - nothing really helped.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[danemayer]

So before I go blowing a bunch of money on a new fridge and inverter is there any thoughts on what is causing the current one to do this at only 4 years old?

Based on your original description that it runs ok for days either on electric or propane, and then stops, I'd think you have a problem with the control boards or thermistor.

The thermistor inside the refrigerator changes resistance as temperature changes. The control board interprets the resistance reading and fires up the heater (either electric or propane) until it sees the desired resistance reading.

I'd start by checking the fuses and connectors on the control boards looking for loose connections.

 

[J_hurst369]

Based on your original description that it runs ok for days either on electric or propane, and then stops, I'd think you have a problem with the control boards or thermistor.

The thermistor inside the refrigerator changes resistance as temperature changes. The control board interprets the resistance reading and fires up the heater (either electric or propane) until it sees the desired resistance reading.

I'd start by checking the fuses and connectors on the control boards looking for loose connections.

Ya I've checked all the fuses and connections and also checked the resistance on the thermo deal inside the fridge in a cup of cold water like recommended

 

[danemayer]

Maybe it's time for a new board. Might cost $100-200. See if Dinosaur Electronics has a direct replacement.

 

[J_hurst369]

Maybe it's time for a new board. Might cost $100-200. See if Dinosaur Electronics has a direct replacement.

Is there a way to test the old board before buying a new one?

 

[danemayer]

Is there a way to test the old board before buying a new one?

I think the Dometic RM1350 Service Manual, here, may have a board test. But since your failure is intermittent, it may not be easy to get useful test results. Buying a board is a gamble. You may end up wasting $100-200. Or you may save $1000-1500.

 

[J_hurst369]

I think the Dometic RM1350 Service Manual, here, may have a board test. But since your failure is intermittent, it may not be easy to get useful test results. Buying a board is a gamble. You may end up wasting $100-200. Or you may save $1000-1500.

Thats true but in this case I can wait until it goes into failure again and then do a circuit board test correct