Electrical water heater not working.

[Zebrafive]

The elements on Amazon are all 1440 W @ 120 VAC. This works out to a 10 Ohm load so I will measure that this morning. I will also measure the continuity from the white wire at the inside switch to the element. If it show direct contact it means the problem is with the black wire/thermostat switch...etc.

I would really hate to have to remove the element or anode as they look really rusted on. Seeing that I am selling the camper I would hate to break something and then end up having to replace the entire tank and associate components for both propane and electric. At this point I would rather sell it and tell the new owner that only the propane can be used to heat the water.

Update:
I measured the element and it was 10.5 ohms so I am sure it is ok. There was no continuity between the white wire of the switch inside the camper and the white wire at the element. I ran a jumper between the two and the heater is now working and heating up the tank at 10.7 amps. If the thermostat kicks in and shuts down the power when it reaches temp, I believe all I need to do is run a direct 14 AWG solid copper from the inside switch to the element.

Jim

 

[Zebrafive]

Update:
I measured the element and it was 10.5 ohms so I am sure it is ok. There was no continuity between the white wire of the switch inside the camper and the white wire at the element. I ran a jumper between the two and the heater is now working and heating up the tank at 10.7 amps. If the thermostat kicks in and shuts down the power when it reaches temp, I believe all I need to do is run a direct 14 AWG solid copper from the inside switch to the element.

Jim

Ok, once the temp of the water reached the thermostat setting the current going to the element dropped to zero.
So I am going to replace this wire and call it a done deal. Thanks to all for the amazing help and response.

Bill Knight you can add me to the list of people who had that junction box problem, thanks for pointing that out.

Only 10K. Get it while it last. Everything works!...LOL

 

[wdk450]

The white wire on the element should go directly back to the neutral connection in the breaker box. The black wire that, you said, goes to the element is connected to a high limit switch. If that switch is opened, no power to element (switch opens on temperature rise). My experience is with residential water heaters so not sure what the other limit switch is for but my guess is. One for electric and one for gas. Check the input side of high limit switch and see if you have power there. If you do then high limit switch is bad. Also, check both leads to element to ground.


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My Suburban 12 gallon water heater has 2 SETS of thermostats, each set in series: 2 for the electric heat side, 2 for the propane heat side (12 VDC propane valve control circuitry). The 2 thermostats on each side are a lower temperature setting one for primary water heat control, and a secondary higher temperature one for safety for possible shorting failure of the primary thermostat. Final safety against water heater runaway and possible tank explosion is the water pressure relief valve.

 

[Zebrafive]

My Suburban 12 gallon water heater has 2 SETS of thermostats, each set in series: 2 for the electric heat side, 2 for the propane heat side (12 VDC propane valve control circuitry). The 2 thermostats on each side are a lower temperature setting one for primary water heat control, and a secondary higher temperature one for safety for possible failure of the primary thermostat. Final safety against water heater runaway and possible tank explosion is the water pressure relief valve.

The test I ran with the jumper worked perfectly. Too speed up the heating, I turned on the propane heater as well. The propane turned off 1st and about 15 seconds later the current meter I had measuring the electrical went from 10.7 amps to zero. I was quite excited...lol

Jim

 

[Terry H]

Check the outside water heater switch for continuity. I had the outside switch fail two times due moisture inside the switch.

 

[AidanMoran]

From what you've described, it seems like you've got the switches set up correctly. However, there could be a few things to check. First, make sure the circuit breaker for the water heater isn't tripped. Sometimes, resetting the breaker can fix the issue.
Also, check the wiring connections to the water heater to ensure they're secure and undamaged. If you have the manual for the water heater, it might have some troubleshooting tips specific to your model.
If none of these steps work, it might be a good idea to reach out to a professional like Boiler Repair London. They helped me out with a similar issue in the past, so they might be able to provide some insights or diagnose the problem for you.

 

[wdk450]

Don't forget new teflon tape on any of the threaded water connections to prevent leaks.