Goodyear G614's Rubbing Shock Absorbers!

[rvhomecamp]

I just had a set of Goodyear G614 235/85's installed on my Bighorn 3055RL and am very satisfied with them.

However I received an email from a friend who has the same setup, saying he discovered the two right side shock absorbers were rubbing against the tires making a one to two inch worn spot on the sidewall where the word "Goodyear " is printed. All the way around making a complete circle. Not enough to damage the tire, just cosmetic at this point. He has had his tire on for some time.

So I immediately went out to check mine and discovered the front left tire is doing the same.
Just enough to see where the very top of the shock absorber has rubbed the tire at some time or another. There is a 1/2 inch space between the tire and top of the shock absorber, the other tires have between 1-1 1/2 inch space and appear to be ok.

Has anyone had this problem or heard of it and know of any corrective action?

My friend had all of his shock absorbers removed. He and I both remember some discussion on the forum about the need for shock absorbers and that the angle they are mounted is worthless. If that is true, why were they put on there in the first place? I agree that something has to be done, just not sure what.

It's my understanding that the 235/85's are 1/2" wider than the 235/80's. I would have gone with 235/80's if they were available in the G614's. I am currently running my tire pressure at 100 lbs.. If I increase the tire pressure to the max of 110 lbs, would it help any?

Any suggestions or solutions to the problem would be appreciated. I know someone out there has the answer.

Dan

 

[boatdoc]

Yep, Go ahead and take the worthless shocks off. Many of us have and I don't see or feel any diff in the way the trailer tows or what is happening inside going down the road. My own opinion is the shocks are a marketing ploy to add a few more bucks to the total of our rigs. Several in the know folks on here about suspensions have said they make NO diff at the angle they're mounted at. They have to move in order for them to work and at the angle they sit they barely move at all and for the most part just flex in the middle.

 

[2010augusta]

if others are like ours, they are mounted at nearly 60* from vertical, so for every 1 inch of vertical travel the shock will only travel 1/2 inch.

The mounts for the shocks are made to clear the edge of the I-beam, so if we have any suspension issues, the mounts will be cut of and relocate to a near vertical position.

 

[2010augusta]

It's my understanding that the 235/85's are 1/2" wider than the 235/80's. I would have gone with 235/80's if they were available in the G614's. I am currently running my tire pressure at 100 lbs.. If I increase the tire pressure to the max of 110 lbs, would it help any?

Actually the section width of a 235/85 and a 235/80 would be exactly the same, but the 85's have a 5% (of the section width) taller section hight to the side wall, than the 80's

 

[beardedone]

I think the key in the OP is that there is a difference of 1" in the lateral distance between the tires and shocks on one side as opposed to the other. This tells me that there is also something else at play here. When I had all my repairs done it was determined that the saddle for the springs on one axle was off set towards the centre by 1". You should carefully inspect your undercarriage for any spring / axle shifting or anything that could be causing this difference, (if I read your original post correctly).

 

[lhetsler]

This has been an ongoing problem. Some have been told the axles were made too short (including me) and have had Lippert install new axles (including me). The shocks can't be much good as others have said at that angle.

 

[rvhomecamp]

Yep, Go ahead and take the worthless shocks off. Many of us have and I don't see or feel any diff in the way the trailer tows or what is happening inside going down the road. My own opinion is the shocks are a marketing ploy to add a few more bucks to the total of our rigs. Several in the know folks on here about suspensions have said they make NO diff at the angle they're mounted at. They have to move in order for them to work and at the angle they sit they barely move at all and for the most part just flex in the middle.

That's my way of thinking.

Thanks

 

[rvhomecamp]

if others are like ours, they are mounted at nearly 60* from vertical, so for every 1 inch of vertical travel the shock will only travel 1/2 inch.

The mounts for the shocks are made to clear the edge of the I-beam, so if we have any suspension issues, the mounts will be cut of and relocate to a near vertical position.

Doesn't make much sense does it. But then we don't think like engineers do we.

Thanks

 

[rvhomecamp]

Actually the section width of a 235/85 and a 235/80 would be exactly the same, but the 85's have a 5% (of the section width) taller section hight to the side wall, than the 80's

I didn't know that.

Thanks

 

[rvhomecamp]

I think the key in the OP is that there is a difference of 1" in the lateral distance between the tires and shocks on one side as opposed to the other. This tells me that there is also something else at play here. When I had all my repairs done it was determined that the saddle for the springs on one axle was off set towards the centre by 1". You should carefully inspect your undercarriage for any spring / axle shifting or anything that could be causing this difference, (if I read your original post correctly).

You could be right, I'll take a better look at it. It's also possible that the shock absorber hangers were not welded inline with the frame.

Thanks

 

[rvhomecamp]

This has been an ongoing problem. Some have been told the axles were made too short (including me) and have had Lippert install new axles (including me). The shocks can't be much good as others have said at that angle.

I have never heard of an axle being too short but I guess anything is possible when it comes to manufacturing.

Thanks

 

[caissiel]

I have a tire rub on the left rear shock absorber. I will repair it by centering the axle. When I replaced the springs I had loose springs and the axle must have been off by about 1/8", as I observed on the spring mount.

So far the front axle is perfectly aligned with the frame, and I have no tire rub on it. So if I align the rear to the front I will be ok.

I did relocate the shocks to the required uptimum angle and so far I only got the rubbing in cornering. It located the shock a bit higher in the frame and it just rubs the outside shock shell. I did observe that the trailer is much more stabil when parked due to axle movement is limited.

I will loosen both spring plates and be driving the trailer forward and turn the trailer until the both axles are in line and then thighten then to torque. I will have to take into account the twist of the tires but it should work so I don't have to jack both side of the trailer, that seam to be the easiest method of lining up the rear axle to the front. It seam to be that way that the axle got out of line due to loose plates and springs.
If it don't work I will lift both sides of the trailer.

Had to do that before on an other trailer that had 2 springs broken on the rear axle.

 

[Bob&Patty]

I would be curious to here from Lippert on this question. Many of you may know that most automobiles have the suspensions set to left (drives side) to compensate for there always being weight on the left side when the vehicle is in motion. I wonder if trailers are designed this way for the extra weight on ODS kitchen slide being heavier.

 

[rvhomecamp]

I have a tire rub on the left rear shock absorber. I will repair it by centering the axle. When I replaced the springs I had loose springs and the axle must have been off by about 1/8", as I observed on the spring mount.

So far the front axle is perfectly aligned with the frame, and I have no tire rub on it. So if I align the rear to the front I will be ok.

I did relocate the shocks to the required uptimum angle and so far I only got the rubbing in cornering. It located the shock a bit higher in the frame and it just rubs the outside shock shell. I did observe that the trailer is much more stabil when parked due to axle movement is limited.

I will loosen both spring plates and be driving the trailer forward and turn the trailer until the both axles are in line and then thighten then to torque. I will have to take into account the twist of the tires but it should work so I don't have to jack both side of the trailer, that seam to be the easiest method of lining up the rear axle to the front. It seam to be that way that the axle got out of line due to loose plates and springs.
If it don't work I will lift both sides of the trailer.

Had to do that before on an other trailer that had 2 springs broken on the rear axle.

Personally I would be a little hesitant in re adjusting the axles. That would be beyond my capabilities. I will do some measuring between axles for curiosity sake.

 

[rvhomecamp]

I would be curious to here from Lippert on this question. Many of you may know that most automobiles have the suspensions set to left (drives side) to compensate for there always being weight on the left side when the vehicle is in motion. I wonder if trailers are designed this way for the extra weight on ODS kitchen slide being heavier.

I would also be interested in Lippert's thought on this matter.

Dan

 

[lhetsler]

Here is a quote from a thread in mid year 09 about the axles

When I began this thread I was noticing about ¾ inch movement of my pinbox up into the front cap on my 3670. It turns out some flexing of the frame is normal and everything there was okay.

I had also noticed that the shocks on the left side were only about ¼ from the tire and were rubbing the tire in turns. The dealer discovered that the spindles were bent on both axles. Lippert told them that the only way that could happen is from overloading.


I load only clothes and food. I have only one air conditioner, although I have hookups for two and no washer/dryer, again although I have the hookups. I carry in the basement a fiberglass ladder, a beach umbrella, satellite dish and a few tools and supplies. And most of the basement weight is on the truck. The basement is ¾ empty. I also never run with any water in the tanks.


The dealer was aggressive and measured the length of the axles on other bighorns he had in stock. Mine were 3/8 of an inch shorter. So Lippert agreed to pay for new axles because of the error in length, at least part of the reason for the shocks rubbing the tires. I am pleased that Lippert came through even if not necessarily for the right reason. The tires were not damaged.

In all I am happy that the warranty came through for me. I highly recommend Avalon RV in Medina Ohio if you live in northeast Ohio. They really went to bat for me with Lippert to make sure I got the warranty I deserved.

 

[lwmcguir]

The stock axles/springs/equalizers are very light as are the hangers. This allows movement when you are turning the Coach at right angles. This is always going to be an issue unless you upgrade your suspension. We went with CP and 8K axles/springs and have been very happy with the upgrade. It should be an option. Had the CP installed to stiffen up the Center Hangers and you want to go with the wet kit while you are at it.

 

[rvhomecamp]

The stock axles/springs/equalizers are very light as are the hangers. This allows movement when you are turning the Coach at right angles. This is always going to be an issue unless you upgrade your suspension. We went with CP and 8K axles/springs and have been very happy with the upgrade. It should be an option. Had the CP installed to stiffen up the Center Hangers and you want to go with the wet kit while you are at it.

That great if you can afford it but shouldn't be required to keep the suspension from rubbing your tires.

Dan

 

[lwmcguir]

That great if you can afford it but shouldn't be required to keep the suspension from rubbing your tires.

Dan

Sure not going to argue that. I didn't plan on spending another 3K either.