Heated underbelly
- Thread starter farupp
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Of course, it depends on how cold and windy it gets. In my experience, with the thermostat at 70-72, the furnace will keep the underbelly 10-12 degrees (F) above the outside temp. So you'll probably be ok down to about 20 (F). Below freezing, you'll either have to pump water from your fresh tank, or use a heated hose. You may want to put insulation on your low point drains and fresh tank drain. There's water above the valves that's exposed to outside temps. If it freezes, the ice can wick up into the tee and block the water lines.
If you have a refrigerator with ice maker or water dispenser, located in a slideout, the water feed line likely goes under the slide and is exposed to outside temps. It's a thin poly line that will freeze and crack at just below freezing. If you have that, you need to turn the feed line cutoff valve to OFF and evacuate the water from that line.
Keep in mind that weather reports often give you the temperature at a local airport or some other spot that can be quite different from where you're camping. If the weather forecast is for 20, where you are located it could be 25, or 15. The park where you stay can probably provide guidance.
If you have a refrigerator with ice maker or water dispenser, located in a slideout, the water feed line likely goes under the slide and is exposed to outside temps. It's a thin poly line that will freeze and crack at just below freezing. If you have that, you need to turn the feed line cutoff valve to OFF and evacuate the water from that line.
Keep in mind that weather reports often give you the temperature at a local airport or some other spot that can be quite different from where you're camping. If the weather forecast is for 20, where you are located it could be 25, or 15. The park where you stay can probably provide guidance.
BigHorns
Active Member
Brand new to the forum- first time poster. We're in a new 2019 Bighorn 3925MLP and getting unexpectedly COLD. I'm concerned about this line. I have not yet found its cutoff. Can anyone point me, possibly. Scurrying to get this drained!
Regards,
...Bill
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Bill,
Start in the kitchen. The ice maker water feed line is usually teed into the cold water for the kitchen. If you don't find it under the sink, look behind the drawers or in cabinets to the side of the sink.
BigHorns
Active Member
Thanks Dan. Found it. I was letting the island kitchen fool me in my haste, I guess, because it wasn't "next/nearby" the fridge.
...Bill
BigHorns
Active Member
Much obliged for the reference. Will do.
I noted the owner-written guides and am looking forward to exploring. I've lost count of the systems on this rig for which I have already sought documentation, reference materials, etc., and have none. Looking forward.
I cut the back panel out of the fridge to access the valve for the ice maker. I disconnected the valve and blew all the water out.
Earlier this year I installed a braided line to the petcock under the kitchen sink. I eliminated close to 30 ft of plastic pipe and two push on vales that leaked. I out a tee just below the fridge to drain the system or flush as needed. Just remove the plug on the end to winterize or drain.
Brian
BigHorns
Active Member
I'm trying to imagine what you refer to as "push on" valves. Brain dead here, I expect.
Yeah, after the exercise yesterday I'm heading toward a mod or two on that fridge backside. Too much headache/hassle for a quick securing of that water line.
I'm new in this unit so I'm still discovering. What I learned yesterday, however, is that most of my 1/4" ice maker line is in heated space near as I can tell. Nothing under a slide. We have an island kitchen with the stove and fridge on the slide. The line runs from under the island sink down into the [heated] belly (it appears) and pops back up behind drawers next to the stove/oven. Runs laterally through the wall between stove and fridge to the rear of the fridge. So, I think the only place I've got any exposure is right behind the fridge at the access door- as long as the RV is heated, of course. To totally winterize it, I would have to blow it all out. But when in use, I think I can create a drain right behind the fridge and cover the exposure. But, I may find this whole idea doesn't hold water!
Thanks for the thoughts.
danemayer
Well-known member
When extended, the floor of the slide is exposed to outside air. If the water line comes up through the slide floor, part of the line is also exposed to outside air. And there may be a drain valve for that line, attached to the frame. Btw, the drain doesn't usually get a lot of water draining.
BigHorns
Active Member
I got you. I don't have any water line exposed to outside air. The 1/4" line comes into the fridge connections from the side, not from below. Comes through the wall from behind the stove inside the RV. It's in heated space all the way to the back of the fridge- I've discovered. Consequently, I have no drain valve beneath the slide, either.
Many thanks.
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