Landmark Battery Problems

[Dan54]

I’ve had problems for a few years with batteries holding a charge in my 2011 Landmark. I have replaced them at least twice in the 7 years I’ve owned the coach. They are lead acid, the same group number that was originally there when I got it.
Two years the rig has been hooked up to the campground 30 amp circuit all summer with no noticeable issues. Then when unplugged the issues begin. Yesterday we pulled the slides in then disconnected from shore power. First time disconnected since late May. The electric cord reel quit operating almost immediately. I had to hook up my jump starter & my truck to get the jacks up. Both the leveling system & the jump starter showed the batteries down to 11.9 volts. I had just replaced the batteries in May because the old ones (2-3 years) didn’t have enough juice to get the trailer on & off the truck. Do I have a bad inverter/charger? Everything on the trailer is stock.
Thanks


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[travelin2]

I’ve had problems for a few years with batteries holding a charge in my 2011 Landmark. I have replaced them at least twice in the 7 years I’ve owned the coach. They are lead acid, the same group number that was originally there when I got it.
Two years the rig has been hooked up to the campground 30 amp circuit all summer with no noticeable issues. Then when unplugged the issues begin. Yesterday we pulled the slides in then disconnected from shore power. First time disconnected since late May. The electric cord reel quit operating almost immediately. I had to hook up my jump starter & my truck to get the jacks up. Both the leveling system & the jump starter showed the batteries down to 11.9 volts. I had just replaced the batteries in May because the old ones (2-3 years) didn’t have enough juice to get the trailer on & off the truck. Do I have a bad inverter/charger? Everything on the trailer is stock.
Thanks


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Certainly sounds like your converter may not be consistently charging the batteries when plugged in to shore power. While plugged in the voltage should be just over 13 volts. Unplugged fully charged batteries should be around 12.4.
Do all the 12v appliances work when hooked up to shore power, lights, water pump, radio, etc??
It would take getting into the basement where the converter is located to test the output when connected to shore power
Are the cables to the batteries clean and tight? Also check the ground cable connection to the frame for any corrosion and tightness

Lyle

 

[david-steph2018]

When you check the power from the converter to the batteries, IF there is no power:
there are fuses on the converter to protect from reverse polarity when hooking up the batteries.
Your new batteries could also be bad, from the converter not charging.

 

[hoefler]

You mentioned you are using a 30 amp outlet. Your rig is a 50 amp unit. When you are using an adaptor to convert 30 to 50 amp, you tie both hot legs together. The adaptor could be bad and not suppling power to both legs equally, probably the leg that the convertor is on.

 

[Dan54]

Certainly sounds like your converter may not be consistently charging the batteries when plugged in to shore power. While plugged in the voltage should be just over 13 volts. Unplugged fully charged batteries should be around 12.4.
Do all the 12v appliances work when hooked up to shore power, lights, water pump, radio, etc??
It would take getting into the basement where the converter is located to test the output when connected to shore power
Are the cables to the batteries clean and tight? Also check the ground cable connection to the frame for any corrosion and tightness

Lyle

Thanks for the response, I’m taking it to get it serviced on another issue. I’ll have them check those things


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[Dan54]

You mentioned you are using a 30 amp outlet. Your rig is a 50 amp unit. When you are using an adaptor to convert 30 to 50 amp, you tie both hot legs together. The adaptor could be bad and not suppling power to both legs equally, probably the leg that the convertor is on.

Is there any to test the adapter? If I replace it what brand would you suggest? Not sure what I’ve got, bought all my gear at rv dealers or Amazon.


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[Dahillbilly]

Check the water level in the cells, refill with distilled water only.

 

[hoefler]

Is there any to test the adapter? If I replace it what brand would you suggest? Not sure what I’ve got, bought all my gear at rv dealers or Amazon.


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Using a multi-meter, you test for continuity and resistance on the black lead

 

[Dan54]

Using a multi-meter, you test for continuity and resistance on the black lead

Thanks, I’ll have the trailer & adapter back this weekend.


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[wdk450]

Adapters are relatively cheap when talking battery issues. I like the adapters without a cable eliminating the possibility of bad connections within the 2 connectors versus all connections within 1 connector. The drawback for these is that the weight of the heavy 50 amp trailer cable pulls the adapter out of the park 30 amp socket. My solution for this ( and many other RV issues) is a roll of double sided Velcro fabric "tape" available at Harbor Freight Tools. I will include links for that tape, and the 1 piece adapters I find at Walmart.

https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-x-35-ft-black-hook-and-loop-cable-strap-57372.html

This 2nd link (Computer or human?) is via Walmart.com and gets you to a listing on the adapter type I recommend (The one i have is evidently older, does not have the blue see-through plastic and blue power indicator LED)

Robot or human?