Landmark Battery Problems

[Dan54]

I’ve had problems for a few years with batteries holding a charge in my 2011 Landmark. I have replaced them at least twice in the 7 years I’ve owned the coach. They are lead acid, the same group number that was originally there when I got it.
Two years the rig has been hooked up to the campground 30 amp circuit all summer with no noticeable issues. Then when unplugged the issues begin. Yesterday we pulled the slides in then disconnected from shore power. First time disconnected since late May. The electric cord reel quit operating almost immediately. I had to hook up my jump starter & my truck to get the jacks up. Both the leveling system & the jump starter showed the batteries down to 11.9 volts. I had just replaced the batteries in May because the old ones (2-3 years) didn’t have enough juice to get the trailer on & off the truck. Do I have a bad inverter/charger? Everything on the trailer is stock.
Thanks


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[travelin2]

I’ve had problems for a few years with batteries holding a charge in my 2011 Landmark. I have replaced them at least twice in the 7 years I’ve owned the coach. They are lead acid, the same group number that was originally there when I got it.
Two years the rig has been hooked up to the campground 30 amp circuit all summer with no noticeable issues. Then when unplugged the issues begin. Yesterday we pulled the slides in then disconnected from shore power. First time disconnected since late May. The electric cord reel quit operating almost immediately. I had to hook up my jump starter & my truck to get the jacks up. Both the leveling system & the jump starter showed the batteries down to 11.9 volts. I had just replaced the batteries in May because the old ones (2-3 years) didn’t have enough juice to get the trailer on & off the truck. Do I have a bad inverter/charger? Everything on the trailer is stock.
Thanks


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Certainly sounds like your converter may not be consistently charging the batteries when plugged in to shore power. While plugged in the voltage should be just over 13 volts. Unplugged fully charged batteries should be around 12.4.
Do all the 12v appliances work when hooked up to shore power, lights, water pump, radio, etc??
It would take getting into the basement where the converter is located to test the output when connected to shore power
Are the cables to the batteries clean and tight? Also check the ground cable connection to the frame for any corrosion and tightness

Lyle

 

[david-steph2018]

When you check the power from the converter to the batteries, IF there is no power:
there are fuses on the converter to protect from reverse polarity when hooking up the batteries.
Your new batteries could also be bad, from the converter not charging.

 

[hoefler]

You mentioned you are using a 30 amp outlet. Your rig is a 50 amp unit. When you are using an adaptor to convert 30 to 50 amp, you tie both hot legs together. The adaptor could be bad and not suppling power to both legs equally, probably the leg that the convertor is on.

 

[Dan54]

Certainly sounds like your converter may not be consistently charging the batteries when plugged in to shore power. While plugged in the voltage should be just over 13 volts. Unplugged fully charged batteries should be around 12.4.
Do all the 12v appliances work when hooked up to shore power, lights, water pump, radio, etc??
It would take getting into the basement where the converter is located to test the output when connected to shore power
Are the cables to the batteries clean and tight? Also check the ground cable connection to the frame for any corrosion and tightness

Lyle

Thanks for the response, I’m taking it to get it serviced on another issue. I’ll have them check those things


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[Dan54]

You mentioned you are using a 30 amp outlet. Your rig is a 50 amp unit. When you are using an adaptor to convert 30 to 50 amp, you tie both hot legs together. The adaptor could be bad and not suppling power to both legs equally, probably the leg that the convertor is on.

Is there any to test the adapter? If I replace it what brand would you suggest? Not sure what I’ve got, bought all my gear at rv dealers or Amazon.


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[Dahillbilly]

Check the water level in the cells, refill with distilled water only.

 

[hoefler]

Is there any to test the adapter? If I replace it what brand would you suggest? Not sure what I’ve got, bought all my gear at rv dealers or Amazon.


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Using a multi-meter, you test for continuity and resistance on the black lead

 

[Dan54]

Using a multi-meter, you test for continuity and resistance on the black lead

Thanks, I’ll have the trailer & adapter back this weekend.


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[wdk450]

Adapters are relatively cheap when talking battery issues. I like the adapters without a cable eliminating the possibility of bad connections within the 2 connectors versus all connections within 1 connector. The drawback for these is that the weight of the heavy 50 amp trailer cable pulls the adapter out of the park 30 amp socket. My solution for this ( and many other RV issues) is a roll of double sided Velcro fabric "tape" available at Harbor Freight Tools. I will include links for that tape, and the 1 piece adapters I find at Walmart.

https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-x-35-ft-black-hook-and-loop-cable-strap-57372.html

This 2nd link (Computer or human?) is via Walmart.com and gets you to a listing on the adapter type I recommend (The one i have is evidently older, does not have the blue see-through plastic and blue power indicator LED)

Robot or human?

 

[Dan54]

Using a multi-meter, you test for continuity and resistance on the black lead

Tested my adapter:
Resistance - Meter showed OL/Open
Continuity - Meter signaled with a tone indicating Then showed OL/Open on the display.
Do these results indicate a working or defective adapter?
Thanks


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[Dan54]

Tested my adapter:
Resistance - Meter showed OL/Open
Continuity - Meter signaled with a tone indicating Then showed OL/Open on the display.
Do these results indicate a working or defective adapter?
Thanks


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Part of my message was dropped when I pressed reply.
Continuity should have read:
Continuity- Meter signaled with a tone indicating Open on the display.


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[Dan54]

Part of my message was dropped when I pressed reply.
Continuity should have read:
Continuity- Meter signaled with a tone indicating Open on the display.


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Wow, this is getting irritating.
Continuity- Meter signal with a tone indicating less than 10 Ohms then showed OL/Open on the display.


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[hoefler]

Open/out of limits or no tone means no connection between test points. Sound like you have a burnt or loose connection internally.

 

[wdk450]

Again, new adapters are readily available, and relatively cheap. Buy another, and have a spare if the old one is OK.

 

[Dan54]

Open/out of limits or no tone means no connection between test points. Sound like you have a burnt or loose connection internally.

So since the testing shows open it means there isn’t a connection between the two blades on the adapter therefore it’s bad, is that correct? (Because I’ll test the new one as soon as I get it)
I’ll bet it’s been bad since I got it years ago since I’ve also been having this problem for years.

To review, I had no issues as long as I was plugged into shore power but my batteries were discharged when I unplugged even though I was plugged in 3+ months. This type of problem could be caused by the bad adapter? (Trailer would function properly when plugged in but would be unable to charge the batteries/allow them to drain)


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[wdk450]

Either your batteries were not getting a charge while plugged into shorepower, and the 12 volt DC lights, etc worked OK because the charger was powering everything, but the batteries were disconnected (main 12 volt charging battery/ battery supplying current MANUAL RESET circuit breaker was open - tripped) or your batteries are bad and will not take/hold a charge. The big test for this is to MEASURE the 12 volts AT THE BATTERIES WHEN CONNECTED TO SHOREPOWER, AND WHEN NOT CONNECTED TO SHOREPOWER. Last of all measure ACROSS the main manual reset circuit breaker when connected to shorepower. A normally closed switch ( or breaker) should act like a piece of wire and have no voltage drop across it. If there is a voltage drop across the breaker, the breaker is tripped (open). Don't bother measuring to ground. Measure from 1 breaker terminal to the other.

See page 4 on this document: https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Troubleshooting Guides and Tips/12V Block Diagram & Diagnostics V2.pdf

 

[Dan54]

Either your batteries were not getting a charge while plugged into shorepower, and the 12 volt DC lights, etc worked OK because the charger was powering everything, but the batteries were disconnected (main 12 volt charging battery/ battery supplying current MANUAL RESET circuit breaker was open - tripped) or your batteries are bad and will not take/hold a charge. The big test for this is to MEASURE the 12 volts AT THE BATTERIES WHEN CONNECTED TO SHOREPOWER, AND WHEN NOT CONNECTED TO SHOREPOWER. Last of all measure ACROSS the main manual reset circuit breaker when connected to shorepower. A normally closed switch ( or breaker) should act like a piece of wire and have no voltage drop across it. If there is a voltage drop across the breaker, the breaker is tripped (open). Don't bother measuring to ground. Measure from 1 breaker terminal to the other.

See page 4 on this document: https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Troubleshooting Guides and Tips/12V Block Diagram & Diagnostics V2.pdf

Thanks for the detailed response. Unfortunately the link doesn’t work. My trailer has been plugged into 15 amp shore power with a long extension cord at my house for 4 days. The reading from my level up display says 11.9 volts, same as when I plugged it in. Do I need to be plugged into 30 amp service or should it be charging with 15?


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[Roller4tan]

15 amp will keep tour battery charged. As stated your converter should be putting out 13.9 vdc.

 

[wdk450]

Thanks for the detailed response. Unfortunately the link doesn’t work. My trailer has been plugged into 15 amp shore power with a long extension cord at my house for 4 days. The reading from my level up display says 11.9 volts, same as when I plugged it in. Do I need to be plugged into 30 amp service or should it be charging with 15?


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I clicked on the link in your reply, and it worked.