Leveling a 5th Wheel


Well-known member
Being new to the 5th wheel world, all I have owned in the past are TT, I have found that setting up level is, or can be more challenging. This weekend, when setting up for the first time, I had to add a couple of blocks under the curb side tires. When I lowered the landing gear, I don't have the hydraulics, one side touched down about 3/4" to 1" before the other. With the spacing of the holes in the legs, one side or the other would always touch down first. My question is, is this an issue that could cause twisting of the frame, and do I need to carry some 3/4 plywood blocking to remedy this, or do you guys not worry about this small amount of unevenness in the landing gear? This was a new one to me since all I have ever had in the past was the single tongue jack to worry about.
Thanks for any assistance.



Well-known member
My last coach had the legs like yours. I would carry pads cut from a 2x6 for the front legs. Depending on the site level, one board under one side would usually allow both to touch at the same time. I was pretty adamant about both legs touching at the same time, otherwise it would throw the level off. It won't really 'hurt' anything frame wise to have the legs uneven, since the suspension gives before the frame. Just remember the rear legs are stabilizers, and not levelers.

On a side note, if you don't already have one of these, you should get one. A pin box level makes setting up so much easier.


Staff member
One thing to consider is if the front of the rig is on a level surface. If it is then you can make an adjustment to be sure that the legs are hitting the ground together.
If you look between the front jacks in the compartment you will see a square tube that connects the two jacks.
When you are hitched up, and on a level surface, you can remove the bolts that hold the tube in place and manually adjust the off door side to be the same as the door side.
If your legs come down together on a level surface then you will not want to make that adjustment.
You may then just need to use a couple of boards like you are currently doing.

One thing that I noticed in your pic is that it might be a good idea to lower the landing gear legs a lot more before extending the pinned part.
If you were on a site where you needed to lower the front end you will have a problem with the pins hitting.
You will break them off.



Senior Member
In 22 years i have just put 2 x 6 x12 under the legs and lowered the legs and never once worried or saw the level move. The holes are maybe less then on inch apart but with 2 legs never more then 1/2 the difference. Anyway the soil usually sinks on mine enough to make the difference in weight.
Not putting proper blocking is an other story.
On concrete pads, it's again a non event as the concrete is much straighter.

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Founders of SoCal Chapter
Bob, here how I do the leveling.

But 1st...go to Wal-Mart and get 2 of the small stick-on levels. If you dont have them yet, get a bag of plastic leveling blocks. I also carry 4 pieces of 4X8 lumber about 12" long.

Get your coach level front to back and side to side. Put 1 level over the landing gear switch and 1 above the side trim (molding) real close to the front so you can see it while using the switch.

Now, back into your camping spot. Get out and look at the side to side level (over the switch). Adjust that with your plastic leveling blocks. 1/2 a bubble is about 1 block. Sometimes if you have a heavy slide or soft dirt, you might have to adjust for that with more than 1 block under each tire. DONT try to level side to side with the landing gear.

Now you can unhook. Put 1 4X8 under each front landing pad and 1 under each pad of the rear stabilizer. Run the main leg of the landing gear down to raise the coach off the truck. I only leave 6-8 pin holes showing when I pull the pins. The reason for this is....the more outer leg and the less inner leg...the less movement of the coach while camping. Once your clear...you level the front to rear. Once your level....run down the rear stabilizers...put a little pressue on them (motor grunts) and stop.

You should be good to go.


Well-known member
You asked about how to deal with a difference in length when lowering the landing gear. I initially dealt with this problem by going to Home Depot and purchasing door shims. They usually come in a package and you can use one two or whatever to place under the landing pad that has not yet reached the ground. I then discovered the adjustable foot shown in the picture at Camping World and have been successfully using it for many years now.