So, here's an update just to close the loop on this thread.
The first pinbox I received was laying on it's side on a wooden pallet. I sent that back and told the vendor that I wanted the factory packaging, which is a large box with blown in foam that cradles the pin box. This makes the install MUCH easier. The vendor wasn't happy, but when I pay for new, I expect new in factory packaging.
Placing several stacked pieces of 2 x 12" on the floor of the truck bed, I used a chain fall with a lifting strap attached to the pinbox to hoist it up (I happen to have one in my garage, but at 250 lbs., three or four guys can probably lift this thing into the truck bed). I left the bottom foam layer on the pinbox - this provided several inches of base aiding in stabilizing the pinbox and getting it high enough so that the coach landing gear could drop low enough to line up with the holes. You need to be careful not to lower the coach down on your bed side rails - make sure you have enough height. Once you're at the right height, back the truck up and then two guys can just slide this box home. To aid in lining up the holes, I used a
Klein Tools 3251 1-1/16-Inch Standard Bull Pin (available at Amazon for 19 bucks) - these are used by steelworkers to line up beams for bolting. It is the perfect size and taper to use in hole alignment. I also made two 18" long temporary pins out of threaded 5/8" steel rod - this allowed me to easily pin the box in place (one rod in the front set of holes and one in the rear), pull the truck out and measure the correct height as outlined in the instrcutions. As it turns out, I had to raise the box by one set of holes (about 2") to get it to the recommended height from the ground, so all I needed to do was pull the truck back under, pull my threaded rod "pins" (no bolt removal), adjust the coach height and then bolt everything together.
I upgraded to zinc plated Grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers - not necessary but cheap insurance - torqued to 185 ft lbs. I also used anti-seize compound (I'll probably never remove this thing but who knows?). I recommend sequencing the tightening pattern as you would lug nuts and then bring it up in increments (I used 100, 150, 185) ft lbs. The only tools needed were a 15/16" socket with short extension, a long handled 1/2" drive ratchet (or a breaker bar), a torque wrench, a 15/16" box wrench, the aforementiond bull pin and home made alignment pins (you could also use bolts for this - the rods just make it a little easier). A high torgue power screwdriver with 3/8" socket comes in handy to remove and replace (reusing the self-drilling screws) the junction box and breakaway switch. You'll also need a measuring tape and I used a level to insure the coach was level when taking pin height measurements. Also, as repugnant as it might be, force yourself to read the two pages of instructions - life will be easier.
When you're done, you won't need the old pinbox or that silly plastic pinbox cover that some Bighorns come with. In addition to this pinbox, I added Air Lifts a couple of weeks ago and combined, the result in vehicle handling is quite awesome. I took the rig out for a test run on some rough stretches of road (not hard to find in upstate New York) and the results were impressive. The first thing i noticed is that even though I only had an inch or two of "sag" without the Air Lifts, having the truck perfectly level noticeaby reduced front end "lightness". The next thing I noticed is the improved stability and hugely reduced chucking that the Flex Air provides. On long trips, I'm guessing that fatigue will be greatly reduced and it will be a heck of a lot more fun to drive.
If you are thinking about doing this uprade, I whole heartedly can recommend it. Now, on to the disc brake conversion ...
Of course, I didn't take pictures - who has time when your working?
