Magnum MS2012 Install

[alex00]

After about a year trying to decide which inverter to go with I pulled the trigger on a Magnum MS2012. I found a great price online and ordered the remote to go with it. I ordered a complete solar system to go along with this, but haven't installed it yet.

The first step was deciding what type of sub panel. I went with the progressive dynamics PD5500 that splits the main AC panel. It's identical to the oem panel so wire length and panel placement are not an issue.


I had to pull out all my wires and label them. I found the factory mislabeled several circuits. It was easy enough to figure out with outlets but they switched the converter and washer dryer labels. I didn't figure that out until after wiring up the sub panel.



While I had the AC panel out I rewired my air conditioner switch. I added a breaker and ran 12/2 romex to the switch location. Once connected I covered it with a blank plate and eliminated the switch. Now I can run any two air conditioners at once.



I wired the main AC panel to the sub panel without the inverter at first. I'm so glad I did this step to check my work. I had to buy a new 50 amp main breaker. The oem breaker was sacrificed during the disassembly. I had it all wired up and went to test. To my horror nothing worked right. I had power to one air conditioner and the garage outlet. Nothing else worked. My trouble shooting was hampered by a mislabeled breaker I didn't catch. The garage and vacuum circuits were reversed. I couldn't figure out why only the garage was working off the sub panel. Turns out it wasn't. After a few steps I realized a hot leg wasn't getting power. The inverter and an air conditioner were on this leg. Moving breakers around powered them up. A quick continuity test on the brand new main breaker showed one side wasn't working. A new-new breaker solved my problem.


I used slotted angle cut to length and 5/16" carriage bolts to mount my inverter to the aluminum floor joists above my basement. The spacing of the joists and the placement of the slotted holes lined up perfectly with the mounting holes in the inverter. I dropped one inch carriage bolts in the appropriate holes and mounted the brackets using three bolts per bracket. The carriage bolts were great because they mated to the slotted angle well so I didn't have to worry about getting a wrench on both sides. It was pretty rough crawling into the basement and pushing the inverter up into place.


I split the wire I used to power my sub panel from the main panel and connected the inverter to both panels. I drilled a 2 1/2" hole between the battery compartment and basement to run wired. I had a pvc grommet in place but the 4/0 battery wires push it out of place. With a battery connected I did the function test and it was all correct.

Before buttoning everything up I fished the wires for my trimetric 2030 and the inverter remote into the panel above my switches. The holes came out sloppy for the monitors since my jigsaw wouldn't fit on the small panel.



Unfortunately one of my battery cables was on back order so I can't install my 4 Trojan t105s yet. I'm just using the stock battery for all the testing. I built a battery box and coated it with bed liner. It's a simple wooden box with threaded pvc fittings on the the top and bottom for venting. I think I used 1 1/4 pvc fittings to mate up to the stock hose. I resorted to making my own since I couldn't find a sealed box that fit in my battery compartment.


Hopefully I'll have time to install my solar in the next few days.



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[scottyb]

Very nice job Alex. I was thinking you were looking at a Hybrid inverter at one time. Since you eliminated the switch, shouldn't you be able to run all 3 AC's at once, when connected to 50A?

 

[alex00]

Very nice job Alex. I was thinking you were looking at a Hybrid inverter at one time. Since you eliminated the switch, shouldn't you be able to run all 3 AC's at once, when connected to 50A?

Thank you Scotty. I was looking at the hybrid but didn't think I'd get much run time for the third A/C on generator power. As far as the elimination of the switch I should be able to run 3 A/Cs on 50amp service.

 

[porthole]

I found a great price online and ordered the remote to go with it.

I ordered a complete solar system to go along with this

????

 

[alex00]

????

I bought the inverter on Amazon for $1620 shipped to my door.

The solar was from northern Arizona wind and sun. I'm a little over $1600 for a Morningstar 45 mppt, 2 Kyocera 255 watt panels and a bogart tm2030. This also included brackets wires and breakers.

I've made a few trips to Home Depot but that was mostly for wires and parts related to the inverter install.


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[Jim.Allison]

Looks good.

 

[Dennyha]

I'm very interested in making a similar upgrade to my Cyclone 3010. While my unit is in indoor storage (so I can't readily take measurements), I'm trying to do my homework so I'm ready to take this on in spring.

Sub Panel
When you used the Progressive Dynamics PD5500, were you able to mount it back into the original cutout from the original AC panel. If I understand, it sounds like you replaced the OEM panel with this one, which serves as the main panel (which feeds AC in to the inverter) AND the sub panel (which receives the AC out from the inverter). If so, that's fantastic.

Batteries
My 3010 came with one Series 24 battery. Last year, shortly after buying the fifth wheel, I added another Series 24 in parallel. If I add solar and an MS2012 inverter, I'd like to go with four 6 volt golf cart batteries, but I don't know if they'll fit in the front compartment. The 5500 watt generator takes up a lot of the front compartment, so Im hoping that four batteries will fit. Again, I wish I could access my camper to take measurements, but maybe someone else has the measurements, or has made the upgrade already.

Wire Path from Roof to Underbelly
I'm envisioning adding a combiner box on the roof, and running the wire down, just inside the front closet wall, and through the floor into the area forward of the basement. Does this sound like a good route for the wire? Also, are there any tricks to exposing the underbelly (pull it out past the foam sealant and the push it back re-seal, or cut a big access opening and then seal that shut with gorilla tape?)


Stupid Question
I understood that a converter did two things: charge the battery bank and convert AC to DC when plugged into shore power. If I install an inverter/charger, I don't need the converter for charging the batteries anymore, but do I need it to run DC stuff when I'm plugged into shore power? If the inverter is "turned off", will it still charge the batteries?

Thanks for any experience or help you can convey.

 

[Dennyha]

Since your install is very similar to what I'm planning to do, I'm especially interested in this thread. I have more info to follow up.

Sub panel
i called Progressive Dynamics. They confirmed that the PD5500 is a direct replacement for the OEM AC panel. I went to examine my Cyclone in indoor storage. My panel has the two 50 amp mains with 12 breakers below. It looks like there is room for 4 more breakers. Swapping out the panel for the PD5500 should not be too difficult. I did come up with an additional question. In the AC, isn't every other circuit breaker on the same leg. That is, the 1st, 3rd, 5th etc. on one leg, and the others on the other leg. I noticed that for each pair of breakers, the top one (all of the odd numbered breakers) was equal to or higher amperage than the one below it. Doesn't seem like they tried very hard to balance the legs.

Batteries
I did take measurements of the battery compartment, and I called Crown Battery to get measurements for their 235 Amh battery. I can fit 4 of these 6v batteries in the battery compartment, but I don't know if I'll have room for a battery box too. I'm thinking of installing the 4 batteries without a battery box, and then using a nylon strap to hold them together, like a pants belt. Then I would lay a plastic container lid over the batteries (connected to the vent hose). Them, while I'm driving, there should be airflow in the vent and out the hole in the bottom. When stationary, any H gas I generate below the lid should rise up and exit through the vent hose. I thought about building a battery box, but I'm not sure it will fit with 4 batteries.

Wire Path to Underbelly
i took measurements on the roof, and I should have plenty of room for solar panels. I'm thinking of drilling a hole to run wire from the roof down into the area behind the AC panel and control panel area. Once I get the wire into this area, I think I should be able to run it through the basement forward to the battery compartment.

Stupid Question
i learned that the converter just supplies amps to the batteries which then power the DC distribution panel. So, even if the converter is disconnected, DC power will still be available as long as the batteries have power.

As soon as the weather breaks here here in Ohio, I'm exciting to start working on this upgrade. Thanks for your pictures to further educate and motivate me.

 

[danemayer]

i learned that the converter just supplies amps to the batteries which then power the DC distribution panel. So, even if the converter is disconnected, DC power will still be available as long as the batteries have power.

The converter also powers the DC distribution panel. If on shore power, DC power will be available even if batteries are removed.

 

[Dennyha]

The converter also powers the DC distribution panel. If on shore power, DC power will be available even if batteries are removed.

Dan,
I didn't realize that. I've heard many people disconnect their converters when they install an inverter with charging capabilities. If they do this, will DC power still be available when batteries are removed?

Thanks for your help. I learn a lot from your posts.

 

[danemayer]

Dan,
I didn't realize that. I've heard many people disconnect their converters when they install an inverter with charging capabilities. If they do this, will DC power still be available when batteries are removed?

Thanks for your help. I learn a lot from your posts.

Well, an inverter with charging capability sounds like it has both an inverter (12V DC to 120V AC) and a converter (120V AC to 12V DC). If it's wired correctly I would think it could power both the DC distribution box and the batteries.