Microwave, GFCI, & Converter not working

KaylaW

Member
I'm going to try to give every possible detail that may be related to the issue so bare with me. I've been in circles trying to figure this out.

A chain of frustrating events happened before this but basically, we ended up plugged into 110 with no ground (I know...). My boyfriend thought he could use the microwave. As soon as he started it there was a loud noise and the breaker for the Microwave and GFCI tripped. The GFCI is on the same wall. When he tried to flip the breaker back on it sparked and shot a couple flames. we unplugged the microwave and waited a bit. Breaker flipped back on just fine but there was no power to any plug on the GFCI circuit and no power to the Microwave plug. Our converter also stopped working. We replaced the GFCI and the breaker. GFCI and microwave are on the same breaker. We checked all fuses, pulled the panel out and checked everything we possibly could. Checked the 12v circuit breakers by the battery. I couldnt find manual reset buttons on those so I assume they're the automatic reset ones so we did the whole power cycle thing to trigger a reset. still nothing.

I ordered a new converter and am waiting on that but I don't see how the converter could be causing the GFCI and microwave outlet issue. What am I missing? is it possible it could be a problem with our 50amp cord (someone did run it over)? I'm looking at everything at this point.
 

Bogie

Well-known member
The lack of a ground alone should not cause the problems you describe.

Are any other 110 volt outlets in the RV working? If yes, and the problem is isolated to the GFCI, Microwave and Converter, they may all be on the same circuit breaker, the one you said had "shot flames". If that circuit breaker is now bad, it could explain the lack of power to the GFCI and the converter.

If it all occurred only by turning on the micdrowave, the microwave may or may not be viable and in fact may have caused the entire problem. Be cautions before plugginh it in or trying to use it again.

Do you have a voltmeter? Knowing where you do and do not have voltage woudl be very helpful in tracking down the problem.
 

KaylaW

Member
The lack of a ground alone should not cause the problems you describe.

Are any other 110 volt outlets in the RV working? If yes, and the problem is isolated to the GFCI, Microwave and Converter, they may all be on the same circuit breaker, the one you said had "shot flames". If that circuit breaker is now bad, it could explain the lack of power to the GFCI and the converter.

If it all occurred only by turning on the micdrowave, the microwave may or may not be viable and in fact may have caused the entire problem. Be cautions before plugginh it in or trying to use it again.

Do you have a voltmeter? Knowing where you do and do not have voltage woudl be very helpful in tracking down the problem.
All of the outlets on the opposite side of the trailer are working and reading 110. Every outlet on the GFCI shows 0 volts with a voltmeter. The outlet the microwave was on fluctuates between 0 and 50 volts, rapidly. We replaced the breaker that the GFCI and microwave were on and have not plugged the microwave back in since.

Also, we checked both legs in the panel to make sure we didn't drop a leg and each leg reads 120.
 
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Bogie

Well-known member
I would start with the GFCI. You would need to pull it out of the outlet box and measure if there is 110 to the input side of the GFCI.
If yes and there are no other loose connections, the GFCI is likely bad. Be sure to remove the power before pulling it out and working in the box.

If the microwave is on the same circuit, and there is still no power after you restore the GFCI, I would then look at the outlet the Microwave is plugged into for a bad plug or wiring issue.

Just as an aside.....In my coach the GFCI and Microwave are on separate circuits with the Microwave on its own 20 amp breaker and the GFCI on a 15 amp breaker.

Hope that helps.
 

KaylaW

Member
I would start with the GFCI. You would need to pull it out of the outlet box and measure if there is 110 to the input side of the GFCI.
If yes and there are no other loose connections, the GFCI is likely bad. Be sure to remove the power before pulling it out and working in the box.

If the microwave is on the same circuit, and there is still no power after you restore the GFCI, I would then look at the outlet the Microwave is plugged into for a bad plug or wiring issue.

Just as an aside.....In my coach the GFCI and Microwave are on separate circuits with the Microwave on its own 20 amp breaker and the GFCI on a 15 amp breaker.

Hope that helps.
There is no power in the wires to the GFCI and power fluctuates between 0 and 50v at the microwave outlet.
 

Bogie

Well-known member
Then there is likely an open circuit condition somewhere in the wiring and will require tracing. You will have to start at the circuit breaker and trace the wire out from there checking any and all intermediate wire, boxes and connections. This can be difficult in an RV as access can be limited.

You haven't said which RV you have. That might help as others on this forum may have specific knowledge of your particular model.
 

KaylaW

Member
Apologies. I have a 2022 Heartland Prowler 303BH. We were planning on tracing wires today. Beginning with looking for any junctions. My underbelly is enclosed so I can't see anything down there and don't really want to pull it all off unless we need to. Would anything I need to look at be accessible from the underbelly?
 

KaylaW

Member
Do you think it's possible my panel is bad? I just checked the plug at the back of the panel where the converter is plugged in, which also is about the area where we got sparks from, and the outlet for the converter is only reading 7v. The converter itself is readying 10.5 which is the same as the batteries (they're dying since the converter is not working). Would I be wrong to assume something in the panel itself burned up and it's not giving the converter enough power to run? Not sure if that would solve the outlet issue or if these are related but you never know with these trailers!
 

Bogie

Well-known member
Can you tell me the model number of the AC panel. Probably WEFCO brand but model number would be helpful. Should be on the sticker of the panel.
 

Bogie

Well-known member
Great! Mine is the same.

Since you already replaced a breaker, you know how to remove the face plate.

Once you remove the fact plate, use your voltmeter to check the AC voltage at each breaker where the wire for the circuit is
connected to the breaker. You should have 110 volts on every breaker. Make sure the wire on each breaker is tight. Also check each neutral wire to make sure they are tight where they are tied down. Look to see if any neutral wire has become disconnected from the buss bar and is hanging inside.

Since you had sparks.....look for blackening anywhere in the area or on the wire or wire skin. It might help identify a problem area.

If any breaker has 110 volts and the outlets it serves does not have 110 volts.....you have an open somewhere. Either a connection in a junction box or a broken wire. Could also be a bad outlet receptacle. You will just have to chase it down.

If your converter is working properly, you should read about 13.7 volts DC at the battery. Try plugging your converter into a known working outlet with an extension cord. Most converters have external fuses built in and are accessible on the outside of the converter case. If you plug it into a good outlet and verify the fuses are good, but still don't read 13.7 volts, the converter is likely bad.

That's about as far as I can take you remotely.

Good luck.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
While you are in the breaker box, remove all AC power, and tighten every wire connecting screw on the breakers to ensure a good contact. The screws can vibrate loose going down the road. Also, unplug and replug (several times to improve the contacts) all of the breakers from the buss bars. If you have contact spray (like Caig Cramolyn DEOXIT), use it.
 
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