New 12V Fridge replacing absorption fridge best 12v DPDT

We have a 2018 Heartland Pioneer BH270. We love the camper. But the fridge has never worked right since we bought it. I have posted about our issues and some things work then they stop working and the fridge goes back to only working when the outside temp goes below 70 degrees. So, we decided to replace the fridge with a 12v fridge.

We bought one from recpro. Measurements are great, we did buy the 110V to 12V converter. I know how to wire the fridge from the battery, and I know how to wire the converter in. But I obviously don't want them active at the same time. So, I wanted both the converter and battery power come into a 12v dpdt. But I can't seem to find one that will stay in position 1 or position 2 and have a middle off position.

I did buy the wire, loom tube, inline fuse, bus breaker, and propane flare cap for the setup going straight from the battery to the fridge. I would like the switch to be inside the back cavity to where the plug is for the current fridge, next to it.

Does anyone know of a good switch that work for this type of setup? If you have a better solution, I am all ears.

Thank you,

John
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Were you possibly looking for an AUTOMATIC transfer relay, something like the generator automatic transfer switch that would switch you from AC derived 12 volt DC power to battery 12 volt DC power on the loss of AC shorepower? This is pretty much how the AC/propane refrigerators are internally wired. This could easily be wired from a standard dpdt relay with a toggle switches for manual override, or you could just buy a generator transfer switch relay.
 
So, I did do google searches prior to asking the questions, but I have found the following:
Most toggle switches are not capable of sustained load at the amperage needed.
The ones that can are flip on and hold, once you let go, they go off. So, the sustain load is dependent on how long I hold it.

Now I could just wire it into the battery and call it a day, the inverter will charge the battery when on shore power. I will need to upgrade my battery to a lithium one

I did look at the automatic transfer relay and that might be a great path forward. I am looking for the correct relay needed and a good wiring template to use.

I do appreciate the inputs.

Thank you.
 
The switch you mentioned is capable of 25amps and that is great. However, it cannot hold 25amps for very long before it fails, it gets too hot.
However, keeping that in mind and looking over the fridge peak and sustain loads and taking your suggestions into account I did in fact purchase the switch. Still looking into the auto relay but I think that will be a bit down the road.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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