New Owner (noob questions)...

[parallon]

Hello all. My wife and I just bought a barely used 2009 North Trail 21FSB. This is our first camper, so technically a noob. I am interested in finding out as much as I can about it. Is there anywhere that I can download the as-build specs for this model? Until then, here are a couple of questions to get me going...

• What are the Black, Gray, and Fresh water capacities?
• Does this model have a bypass for the water heater for winterizing? I hear a lot about it and hear it is necessary, or at least a nice-to-have.
• What are the approximate dimensions of the black water tank? I looked into one of those wands, but when I open the toilet, it only looks about 4-5 inched deep. I know that it comes with a built in sprayer, but how well does that work?
• Where are the low point drains? Fresh water tank drain?
• Plumbing diagram?
• How to operate the appliances?

Sorry for all the questions, and I appreciate any advice you can offer.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[JohnDar]

Hello all. My wife and I just bought a barely used 2009 North Trail 21FSB. This is our first camper, so technically a noob. I am interested in finding out as much as I can about it. Is there anywhere that I can download the as-build specs for this model? Until then, here are a couple of questions to get me going...

• What are the Black, Gray, and Fresh water capacities?
• Does this model have a bypass for the water heater for winterizing? I hear a lot about it and hear it is necessary, or at least a nice-to-have.
• What are the approximate dimensions of the black water tank? I looked into one of those wands, but when I open the toilet, it only looks about 4-5 inched deep. I know that it comes with a built in sprayer, but how well does that work?
• Where are the low point drains? Fresh water tank drain?
• Plumbing diagram?
• How to operate the appliances?

Sorry for all the questions, and I appreciate any advice you can offer.

Thanks,

Mike

While I don't have that model, this link will give you the specs for a 2010 like yours: https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2010-Heartland-North-Trail-21FBS-5012312585
The capacity of your black and gray tanks 37 gallons each. The fresh water is 36 gallons. The black and gray tanks are not very deep, even in the larger 5th wheels, but larger in length and width (mine are 45 gallons and I have 2 gray tanks). The fresh water tank is more rectangular box shaped.

The black tank sprayer works to a point in helping to push some reluctant sewer trout out the gate. They come with a cheap plastic anti-siphon valve hidden somewhere above the level of the toilet and are known to fail while in use, thus creating a flood inside the trailer. If you're running the sprayer, stay close to the water valve in case the wife starts screaming. BTDT.

As to the water heater bypass, you may have to look at the back of the water heater, probably located under the cabinet next to your dinette. If there is a line between the top (outlet) and bottom (inlet) with a valve in it, then you probably have a bypass. There may also be valves on both the inlet and outlet to close them off to allow antifreeze to circulate without filling the water heater tank. Larger rigs have valves for this remotely located in a compartment.

If there are two short PEX lines (red and blue) extending under the trailer, then you have low point drains. If not, you do not. There should be a single blue line for the fresh water tank drain somewhere around the axle.

If you go up to the TOOLS tab on the forum page and look around, you should be able to find manuals for most of your questions. Most RV manufacturer diagrams are generic and won't help a lot with specific problems. For specific appliances, search the manufacturer's website and you'll probably find a manual for you specific model.

Hopefully, another member with your rig will chime in with more specific information. Do not apologize for asking questions...we've all been there.

 

[TravelTiger]

We had a 2008 21FBS. Here’s a poor pic of the floorplan, with an arrow pointing to where the water heater is. It’s behind a panel that you may have to unscrew to get to.

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[parallon]

@JohnDar

Thank you so much for all the information. As for the Pex lines, I do have the red and blue, so I guess I have low point drains. As for the black tank depth, does 4-5" sound correct? I just didn't know if it was some sort of baffle??? And for the manuals, I will start looking for them.

@TravelTiger

Thank you for the input and the diagram. I know the water heater is just outside that area, but I didn't realize that they would make you work to get to the valves.

@JonDar and @TravelTiger, as you both pointed out, it looks as though I will have to check out under the entertainment center for the bypass valves, but it looks as though I may have to extend the slide-out to get to it. On that note, I read somewhere that there are certain items in the trailer that shouldn't be operated by shore power without a battery installed, as it may damage something. Do you happen to know anything about this? Components affected and reasoning?

Thank you both,

Mike

 

[danemayer]

I read somewhere that there are certain items in the trailer that shouldn't be operated by shore power without a battery installed, as it may damage something. Do you happen to know anything about this? Components affected and reasoning?

Devices that draw a lot of current need a good charge on the battery to operate well. They may (or may not) operate ok with the battery removed, while plugged into shore power. That's because the Power Converter supplies 12V DC power too, even with the battery removed.

However, the Power Converter is not designed for the electrical demands of landing gear motors, or slideout motors. I doubt you would damage either the motors or the Power Converter, but you could trip the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker that's in between the Power Converter and battery. It has a manual reset and your battery won't get charged until it's reset.

 

[JohnDar]

The 4-5” depth sounds about right for the smaller tank you have. Mine is not a whole lot deeper.


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[parallon]

Devices that draw a lot of current need a good charge on the battery to operate well. They may (or may not) operate ok with the battery removed, while plugged into shore power. That's because the Power Converter supplies 12V DC power too, even with the battery removed.

However, the Power Converter is not designed for the electrical demands of landing gear motors, or slideout motors. I doubt you would damage either the motors or the Power Converter, but you could trip the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker that's in between the Power Converter and battery. It has a manual reset and your battery won't get charged until it's reset.

That makes a lot of sense. Just purchased two GC2 batteries. I hear they are great!

Mike

- - - Updated - - -

The 4-5” depth sounds about right for the smaller tank you have. Mine is not a whole lot deeper.


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Sounds good. Doesn't sound like much room for sensors to be very accurate.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[mlpeloquin]

That makes a lot of sense. Just purchased two GC2 batteries. I hear they are great!

Mike

- - - Updated - - -

Sounds good. Doesn't sound like much room for sensors to be very accurate.

Thanks,

Mike

Tanks sensors on trailers and RV's are never accurate after a few outings unless you have sea level tank sensors installed. You get used to using the rV and can tell when the tanks are getting full. It takes time, but you do get a sense as to when they need to be emptied.

 

[parallon]

Tanks sensors on trailers and RV's are never accurate after a few outings unless you have sea level tank sensors installed. You get used to using the rV and can tell when the tanks are getting full. It takes time, but you do get a sense as to when they need to be emptied.

Part of the joys... I actually just looked up a 40-gallon black tank on Google, and I am very surprised.how shallow they were. I would have never guessed...