I have a 2011 Bighorn 3070 that was purchased in November 2011. I didn't realize it until recently, but the brakes are very weak. It's back to the dealer now and they don't seem to be able to find out why the brakes aren't working properly. Has anyone else had a similar problem? The system is made by Dexter.
No Brakes
- Thread starter Idahopool
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
We had a problem with the Dexter brakes not self-adjusting. They got noticeably weak at about 6000 miles. When the tech tried to adjust them manually, he found a 2nd problem: the drums were slightly out of round. So he could adjust to the high spot or to the low spot, but he said braking would be compromised no matter how he adjusted them. Dexter sent new brake assemblies and hubs and authorized replacement, all at no charge since we were under warranty.
We had some confusion after the replacement - the new brakes had no stopping power at all. Turned out they needed a 50 mile break-in, using the trailer brake controller to slow from 50 to 30mph 3 times per mile, for 50 miles. Obviously you need to do this on a lightly traveled country road.
We've since put on another 11 or 12000 miles and the brakes have worked great ever since.
We had some confusion after the replacement - the new brakes had no stopping power at all. Turned out they needed a 50 mile break-in, using the trailer brake controller to slow from 50 to 30mph 3 times per mile, for 50 miles. Obviously you need to do this on a lightly traveled country road.
We've since put on another 11 or 12000 miles and the brakes have worked great ever since.
Other than what Dan said, there are a couple of reasons for weak brakes.
A failed grease seal could lead to grease on the brake shoes.
Sometimes there is a comunication problem with the truck. Could be a bad fuse, wiring or controler.
Do you know what your dealer has done to check into the problem?
What tow vehicle are you using?
Right here is a link to the Dexter Axle Manual. It may provide some useful information.
Peace
Dave
A failed grease seal could lead to grease on the brake shoes.
Sometimes there is a comunication problem with the truck. Could be a bad fuse, wiring or controler.
Do you know what your dealer has done to check into the problem?
What tow vehicle are you using?
Right here is a link to the Dexter Axle Manual. It may provide some useful information.
Peace
Dave
My last axles were Lippert. We now have Dexter and thanks to cookie for the link to the manual they started in 96 using self adjusting brakes. They adjust in either direction. When having brake problems if you don't know the correct procedure take it to somebody who does. The worst mistake you can make is to try things until you get it fixed. Proper repairs should always start with proper diagnosis. Diagnose exactly why the brakes are not working then repair as necessary. So, so, so, many times things are done without any proper diagnosis and $$$$$$$ is wasted. If your dealer can't find the problem find another dealer or repair facility. As a former automotive instructor I saw this so many times. If you replace all the parts in a system you'll eventually get it fixed. Here are a few reasons why brakes won't stop properly. Some of these have been mentioned but a good inspection will cut to the real issue. 1. Bearing grease on the linings. That will be noticed during an inspection. 2. Brakes out of adjustment. That will also be noticed. Glazed linings. That should be noticed but not always. Glazed linings are caused from excessive heat which crystalizes the bonding agent holding the lining together. Once glazed they must be replaced. 3. Cheap lining material. Cheap linings will glaze easier than quality linings and with the weight you're trying to stop they need to be good quality. Check with a good NAPA dealer. Take your linings to them to see if they can match them up with their best line of brakes. 4. Check the voltage or current being delivered by your brake controller. If the controller is not delivering the correct or dialed in setting you'll not be getting the strong pull from those actuating magnets. 5. Drums glazed, worn beyond limits, hard spots. Brakes work by generating heat. That heat is created by rubbing a lining material against a rotating drum. The size, finish and condition of the drum is often neglected, or ignored as not being important. The drum is the other half of the brakes. Again don't buy cheap. There are vast differences in the make-up and quality of drums. If drums become grease coated they must be replaced. Cast iron is porous and grease will penetrate the iron and it can not be washed with soap and water.
Hope this helps some. My only goal is to inform so that owners make better decisions when it comes to their investments.
TeJay
Hope this helps some. My only goal is to inform so that owners make better decisions when it comes to their investments.
TeJay
TandT
Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
Dan,
We had an almost identical problem last year, that has been resolved under warranty (thank you HL). Brakes were replaced, broken in properly and all is well.
My question has always been this;
With this critical break-in period for self adjusting brakes in mind, what do the RV haulers do when they pull these rigs out of Indiana?
It is very doubtful that many, if any, go through this break-in process. This could lead to problems that end up being passed to the end user. JMHO Trace
Last edited:
danemayer
Well-known member
I also doubt there's any break-in process done.
When I spoke with the Dexter Engineer to find out how to fix the problem, he explained that the curvature of brand new shoes rarely matches the curvature of the drums exactly, which is why the break-in is necessary - to wear the shoes into the right shape. He also mentioned that the shoes I had received were a different composition from the originals - harder and longer-lasting. Also, the guys at the truck place were totally stumped - they didn't expect the new shoes to need a break-in.
So my guess is that they ship softer shoes to go on new trailers and either no break-in or only a slight break-in is needed to get sufficient braking.
TandT,
That's a great observation concerning the guys who drive these units from the factories to the dealers. I failed to comment on the break-in of the linings. It is more properly called burnish. All linings require burnishing it does not matter if they are hard or soft linings. According to the brake industry it takes about 200 stops from about 35-45 MPH with about 2-3 minutes between stops for proper cool down to completely burnish the brake linings. Nobody is going to do that. However just normal driving will do it but here is what you need to avoid at all costs, if at all possible during the burnishing process or the first weeks of driving. Do not panic stop and overheat the brakes. That will glaze the linings and ruin them. It's OK after they are burnished but not before. I often observed guys do a panic stop after a brake job just to see how well the new brakes are working.
Here's a little more info concerning linings. One of the discount places offered life-time guarantee on their linings. What most didn't figure out is that the linings were very hard and they wore out the rotors which were not guaranteed. NAPA makes 4-5 different grade of linings the last I checked. They might range from $25-$75 for the same vehicle. Why do they do that??? They don't want you to leave the store if they only offered the $70 linings even if they are the best. Find a good NAPA dealer and ask somebody to explain their linings. They do a great job of designing them and they had a ton of information about each different type. You get what you pay for and there are vast differences in what is offered at all the different aftermarket stores. Also if you're really interested ask about their different rotors and drums. I was amazed when I found out about the differences in cast-iron and the pad design on the vented rotors.
TeJay
That's a great observation concerning the guys who drive these units from the factories to the dealers. I failed to comment on the break-in of the linings. It is more properly called burnish. All linings require burnishing it does not matter if they are hard or soft linings. According to the brake industry it takes about 200 stops from about 35-45 MPH with about 2-3 minutes between stops for proper cool down to completely burnish the brake linings. Nobody is going to do that. However just normal driving will do it but here is what you need to avoid at all costs, if at all possible during the burnishing process or the first weeks of driving. Do not panic stop and overheat the brakes. That will glaze the linings and ruin them. It's OK after they are burnished but not before. I often observed guys do a panic stop after a brake job just to see how well the new brakes are working.
Here's a little more info concerning linings. One of the discount places offered life-time guarantee on their linings. What most didn't figure out is that the linings were very hard and they wore out the rotors which were not guaranteed. NAPA makes 4-5 different grade of linings the last I checked. They might range from $25-$75 for the same vehicle. Why do they do that??? They don't want you to leave the store if they only offered the $70 linings even if they are the best. Find a good NAPA dealer and ask somebody to explain their linings. They do a great job of designing them and they had a ton of information about each different type. You get what you pay for and there are vast differences in what is offered at all the different aftermarket stores. Also if you're really interested ask about their different rotors and drums. I was amazed when I found out about the differences in cast-iron and the pad design on the vented rotors.
TeJay
