NO HOT WATER!!! Need some help.

[lws3224]

Hi guys...I have an Elkridge 38rsrt...2015...brand new off the lot...first time RV owner...I am trying to get some hot water so I don't have to take a cold shower again. Gas lines are open...12v and 120v switches are ON...switch at the water heater controls on the outside of the RV is ON...I assumed the tank was full since water was coming out of the hot side of the faucet...but after checking the relief valve on the hot water heater control section on the outside of the RV, nothing came out...so I am assuming the tank is empty...probably burned out the element...and I am assuming there is a bypass valve somewhere...not seeing it at the UDC or under the sinks...any advice would be great.

Thanks

Kyle and LeAnn Saliga
2015 Elkridge 38rsrt
2011 GMC Sierra 3500

 

[wdk450]

Kyle and LeAnn:
First of all, do you hear any sounds from outside your water heater? The gas flame makes an appreciable roar, and even the electric heating element causes a faint bubbling/ticking sound you can hear. How Long have the power switches been turned on? The gas (12 volt) heating can take 15 minutes, the electric 30 minutes or more. To double check gas lines, light a burner on your stove for about 3 minutes. Turn off and on again the 12 volt switch for the heater after doing this gas line flush. The automatic circuit board on the gas side of the water heater limits flame lighting attempts for safety's sake. Resetting the 12 volt power resets the light attempts counter.
If you look in the "Tools" tab at the top of any forum page, and then click on the "Manuals" choice, under the submenus there is a troubleshooting section specific to water heaters, and manuals for both types of water heaters Heartland uses. There is also help in the manuals "User Guides" section.

Good luck!!!

 

[BigJim45]

Bypass valve is behind the water Hester. Take down wall next to UDC. It's behind there.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Kyle, if water comes out of the hot side faucets the tank should be full...maybe. Did you leave them open long enough to get all the air out of the lines? As far as the 110V side...you should never turn it on unless you are sure the tank is full. Do you hear the the propane side ignite? Turn everything off, make sure the propane tanks are turned on, lite the stove the make sure all the air is out of the lines. If they are open, turn them off and reopen them very slowly. Then try the propane side again. Was the cotter pin removed from the outside switch and was the switch on?? Best I can tell you without being there.

 

[JeromyS]

Yes the bypass valves and everything else will be behind your UDC wall. Here is a picture of a 38RSRT I took during a factory tour. Notice the 3 valve positions. The middle one is open, the other two are shut (which is bypassing the water heater).

 

[danemayer]

Water coming out of the hot side of your faucets doesn't guarantee that the hot water heater tank is full. When bypassed, water still comes out the hot side.

After checking/correcting the bypass controls, and filling the heater tank, to get things running you might have to press reset button(s) on the outside of the water heater.

If you have an Atwood water heater, there's a chance the element may not have burned out. They've been using a new composition that's intended to survive running for a short while with no water in the tank.

As mentioned, the Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide may be of help. It's focused on Suburban, but may still help you get an Atwood unit running.

If it turns out you did have water in the tank, but nothing worked, you'll need to use a voltmeter to check voltage at the heating element and possibly at earlier points. The troubleshooting guide will help with that.

 

[dfk009]

Had a brand new SOB trailer that the selling dealer forgot to close the bypass valve everyone is describing on our trailer and a neighboring rig. Poor PDI which was our first unit purchased. A real learning experience.

 

[lws3224]

Thanks everyone...hot water problem fixed...is everything going to be this difficult with a new trailer? I had landing gear problems right out of the box...blew an inline fuse...nothing in the owners manual about that...still cant figure out how to manually crank the gear as the drive shaft to manually crank comes out behind the hydraulic reservoir...my rear slide is about 2" from being fully deployed...Is it just me or does everyone and every RV go through a learning curve and growing pains?

Thanks
Kyle and LeAnn Salig

 

[TedS]

Did something get caught behind the slide and thar is keeping tbe slide from fully extending?

 

[boatto5er]

Thanks everyone...hot water problem fixed...is everything going to be this difficult with a new trailer? I had landing gear problems right out of the box...blew an inline fuse...nothing in the owners manual about that...still cant figure out how to manually crank the gear as the drive shaft to manually crank comes out behind the hydraulic reservoir...my rear slide is about 2" from being fully deployed...Is it just me or does everyone and every RV go through a learning curve and growing pains?

Thanks
Kyle and LeAnn Salig

I think nearly everyone with electric landing gear has experienced the blown fuse syndrome. Mark a line about half an inch from the full extension so you won't go past it anymore and keep a few spare 30amp blade fuses on hand just in case. You will may encounter things you are unsure of. Don't be afraid to ask questions on the forum. We're here to help. Sign up for the Owner's Club and go to some rallies in your area. You'll learn a ton there (besides meeting a lot of great folks and eating yourself to death). As far as the slide issue, as mentioned, check to make sure nothing is blocking the full extension (I caugt a pickle jar one time [don't ask where it came from] and I've caught a cabinet door [slide = 1, cabinet door = 0]). If nothings blocking, look at the bottom of the slide to see if it looks like there's anything keeping the rods from going further out.

 

[farside291]

Don't think it's just you or your unit. My unit is also brand new, first trip out. Kitchen slide won't go in or out without binding, flooded entire kitchen slide because leaking ice maker line, fresh tank is automatically filling with water any time city water is turned on because of a bad check valve in pump. These are in addition to items discovered during the PDI. So seems alot of these new units are having problems. Just gotta get them worked out. I guess thats why we buy a warrenty. Glad you got your hot showers back!

 

[porthole]

What "fixed" the hot water?

 

[lws3224]

Maybe I spoke to soon saying the hot water problem was fixed...I took out the wall to the left of the UDC and found the bypass valve...I opened the valve and heard the water rush into the heater and the propane ignited...shortly thereafter I opened the relief valve for a quick second to confirm the water was hot...it was...my problem now is that the water is slightly less than luke warm coming from the faucets even though it is hot at the tank...my outside shower valves are both closed...im not sure where to go from here...any suggestions?
Thanks

Kyle and Leann Saliga
2015 Elkridge 38rsrt
2011 GMC Sierra 3500
6.6 Duramax.

 

[brianharrison]

Are there more than one valve on the hot water heater behind the UDC? Sometimes there is an inlet fill valve, bypass valve, and outlet valve. Sometimes the outlet valve is omitted as there should be an inline check valve on the outlet. But the bypass needs to be closed as well, as the inlet is opened. Reverse for isolating the hot water tank to winterize.

Brian

EDIT: I missed the earlier post by JeromyS with the picture - just make sure you CLOSE the bypass and OPEN the inlet and outlet valve.

 

[boatto5er]

Agree with Brian. Sounds like the bypass valve is still in the open position.


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