Regulator Water Pressure Readings - Pre- and mid-operational readings

[Prairiedog]

OK, this might be a stupid question, so I'll apologize in advance if it is. However, I have a $50+ Volterra regulator between my City Water spigot and my line into the rig. With the water on in the rig, the reading is 50psi, which is easily adjustable up or down but that seems to work well. However, when no water is being used and the system is basically in "idle" (the city water spigot is still on), the psi jumps to 80psi.

So, any idea if this is normal? Is there an air pocket in the lines? Did I connect something wrong? The water pressure at this campsite is pretty strong so I don't want to mess anything up, but I don't know which is the real reading, and I certainly don't like the fact that it looks as if there is 80psi constant pressure load on the system.

Any thoughts or advice would be great!

My thanks,
Rob
"The Prairiedog"

 

[danemayer]

Hi prairiedog,

My understanding is that the reading you want is the static pressure reading. If you buy a standalone pressure gauge, you would screw it onto the faucet and turn on the faucet to get the pressure. No water would be flowing through it.

Using your inline gauge, with all trailer faucets OFF, you'll get a comparable static reading.

So if you read 80psi when no water is being used, your pressure is a bit too high and could cause damage. I would suggest dropping it to 50.

 

[JohnDar]

The way I understand the adjustable pressure regulator to work is that the static pressure (the 80 psi with no flow) gets reduced to the 50 psi you say you have when the water is running. This info is from the RV Water Filter Store FAQ section:

On a pressure regulator with a gauge, which pressure does the gauge read?
The pressure regulators we sell that have a gauge are adjustable. The gauge shows the regulated pressure, which is the pressure you'll get in your RV. The gauge enables you to set the exact pressure you want.

 

[Prairiedog]

Thanks everyone, still don't think I've solved this yet...but here's what I've done since my post and y'alls writings.

I bled out the system between the spigot and the rig to get the water pressure all the way down to 0. Before I did that, even with the spigot off, the pressure stayed at 80 (which couldn't have been a good thing). I tightened everything and opened the spigot up again (slowly). Now, the gauge reads 50psi static with nothing running in the rig and around 42 with the kitchen faucet running.

So, I'm not sure what is causing the +/- 8psi differential, or if there should be a differential at all. But, its got to be better at +/-8 than +/-32psi.

The Valterra regulator I'm using can be found at http://www.loveyourrv.com/valterra-water-regulator/

Only thing I can think about that I did differently during this setup was I don't think I slowly opened up the spigot when I set it up. Not sure if that would put that much air and pressure into the system, but can't think what else caused it.

Is there any other area in the rig to bleed out air/water to see if that pressurizes the RV better?

Thanks again folks!

 

[danemayer]

Now, the gauge reads 50psi static with nothing running in the rig and around 42 with the kitchen faucet running.

Keep in mind that campground water pressure can vary.

Also, anytime your gauge reads 80psi, that's how much pressure is being applied to fittings, valves, faucets, hoses, etc.

Here's the warning from the Heartland Trailer Manual: "EXCESSIVE WATER PRESSURE CAN DAMAGE LINES AND CONNECTIONS, CAUSING WATER DAMAGE TO YOUR RV. MAKE SURE WATER PRESSURE NEVER EXCEEDS 60 PSI."

You might do well to adjust pressure down to 30 and then adjust back up to 50.

 

[Prairiedog]

I really wonder if it was some kind of an air pocket or overpressure that built up when I connected it. Its holding steady with a static PSI of 50, so I think that part of the mystery is solved. I would like to know, though, what caused it and why. The regulator was never cranked up to 80psi...that's the mystery. When a valve was open (i.e. faucet, shower, etc.), the pressure re-regulated to its established level of 50psi, only to return to 80psi when that valve was closed. Could it have been backpressure between the spigot and the regulator (which were connected to each other, so that would seem odd). In any case, I need to get a better understanding of this system apparently.

Still looking for an external release valve to bleed off any air in the system. In theory, you would clear any air pockets or pressure through the fixtures, but thought there might be a way to do it externally.

Again, my thanks to everyone for the quick replies. Y'all are awesome!

 

[marvmarcy]

Many regulators allow a static creap. I've had issues , especially with the little preset ones. I had one go from 40 psi to 100 psi and started getting leaks. I went to a plumbing shop and bought a whole-house regulator and guage. I never have presure creap now. I typically see less than 5 psi drop when running water in the rv, and static stays at 50 psi. This regulator doesn't restrict flow like most rv regulators do.

 

[Prairiedog]

Thanks Marvmarcy, do you happen to know what the model number was on the one you bought? I thought I bought a decent one similar to the whole-home regulator I have on my home well pump. I think it even cost more. Its a Valterra Adjustable Water Regulator A01-1117VP. I'm just not sure what the issue is -- maybe I turned the spigot on too fast and it took too much air in originally. Its holding steady now at 50psi, so I think everyone helped solve that issue, but I'd like to trust it a little more like I do on the one at my house.

 

[Greengas]

Many regulators allow a static creap. I've had issues , especially with the little preset ones. I had one go from 40 psi to 100 psi and started getting leaks. I went to a plumbing shop and bought a whole-house regulator and guage. I never have presure creap now. I typically see less than 5 psi drop when running water in the rv, and static stays at 50 psi. This regulator doesn't restrict flow like most rv regulators do.

Marv

What model whole house regulator and gauge did you buy and did you do a permanent install or is it attached to the hose from the city water? And, if you don't mind me asking, how much did it all cost?

 

[JohnDar]

Don't know how old your regulator is, but it is possible for the Bourdon tube in the gauge to go bad. It's just a very thin walled copper tube that flexes in response to the pressure inside it. I had to replace the gauge on my Watts regulator this spring.

 

[Prairiedog]

John, quite possible that the regulator (or some part of it) is defective. I'm going to monitor it over the next few days and we'll see how that shakes out.

All of this is part of the never-ending battle to improve the water pressure in the rig without overloading the system...the shower being the biggest challenge. I've upgraded it to an Oxygenics sprayer but I'm still scratching my head over the tiny output port in the Bighorn shower. I'm assuming the other rigs have the same little black port (or in technical terms...a "thingy" ;-) ) that the shower unit attaches to. The Oxygenics showerhead is a big improvement, but I can't imagine that this is the best I can get the water pressure in there. I like a challenge, though. If anyone has any suggestions, have at it.

All the best,
Rob

 

[danemayer]

Rob,

Take a look at our Water Systems Guide, starting on page 13.

 

[JanAndBill]

I bought an inline RV water filter. I used the flexible line that came with the filter, and attached it to a "T" which has a pressure guage, then a cut off valve, then the filter, then a two-way valve. When I pull into a campground I hook this up to faucet with the valve closed. If the pressure is within limits, I hook the hose up to the other end minus the regulator. If the pressure is to high, I install the regulator. When I'm ready to leave I close both valves, which holds water in the filter to keep it from drying out.

 

[pegmikef]

I bought an inline RV water filter. I used the flexible line that came with the filter, and attached it to a "T" which has a pressure guage, then a cut off valve, then the filter, then a two-way valve. When I pull into a campground I hook this up to faucet with the valve closed. If the pressure is within limits, I hook the hose up to the other end minus the regulator. If the pressure is to high, I install the regulator. When I'm ready to leave I close both valves, which holds water in the filter to keep it from drying out.

I am wondering whether or not the pressure might change after you initially measure it based on general usage by others in the park and routine park maintenance (e.g., sprinklers). If the time that you measure it happens to be a high usage period wouldn't the pressure tend to increase as usage diminished from the time it was measured?

 

[nander]

I have a question...if the regulator is set to 50 psi, but the campground is 40 psi, will the pressure stay at 40 or can you adjust it somehow to the 50 psi?
We purchased the Watts regulator.

 

[danemayer]

You'll never have more pressure than what's coming out of the campground faucet.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Prairiedog]

Rob,

Take a look at our Water Systems Guide, starting on page 13.

Dan, I've had that pulled up for the past few days. Definitely was helpful, especially early on. The static pressure has remained steady at 50psi and the throughput pressure around 43psi or so, so that's probably as good as I'll get. I may up it to 55psi to get a little higher on the shower, but being a full-timer, I really don't want to keep stress on the system. I've read so many stories on folks having to "dig in" to their rigs to find leaks and such, I'm hoping to postpone that phase of my life as long as possible.

I am, however, still trying to figure out the mechanics behind the black output stem off the shower faucet that has only that small little opening in it. I'm assuming that's to help generate better water strength...but if you have a better shower (like the oxygenics), I'm not sure why there isn't another way to connect to get better volume. The manual says the following:

"The shower line may have a plastic disc with a hole in the center acting as a flow restrictor. Some people have unscrewed the shower hose, removed the restrictor, and drilled a larger diameter hole in the restrictor to improve water flow to the shower head."

I'm assuming that's the output stem they are talking about, but I think I ought to get a backup one in case I mess one up. I'm going to go searching through the forum to see if anyone else has done this -- that's the only thing that will really be an issue once the family arrives for a visit.

Thanks again for your stewardship in these forums. You've been a blessing.

 

[marvmarcy]

Thanks Marvmarcy, do you happen to know what the model number was on the one you bought? I thought I bought a decent one similar to the whole-home regulator I have on my home well pump. I think it even cost more. Its a Valterra Adjustable Water Regulator A01-1117VP. I'm just not sure what the issue is -- maybe I turned the spigot on too fast and it took too much air in originally. Its holding steady now at 50psi, so I think everyone helped solve that issue, but I'd like to trust it a little more like I do on the one at my house.

It is a Wilkins 70. I bought an adapter to place the guage on the outlet. It also requires hose adapters for rv use. I bought it more than ten years ago and don't remember what I paid for everything, but it is probably a lot more now anyway. I've replaced the guage several times, but it is less than $10.

 

[Prairiedog]

It is a Wilkins 70. I bought an adapter to place the guage on the outlet. It also requires hose adapters for rv use. I bought it more than ten years ago and don't remember what I paid for everything, but it is probably a lot more now anyway. I've replaced the guage several times, but it is less than $10.

Thanks Marv, I'll have to look that up and see what I can upgrade to. BTW -- thanks for your USAF service! I'm going on 25 years in the AF myself and am looking forward to being on the other side when the time comes to hang it up for good. Lots of AD and retirees full-timing nowadays, so its a great common bond that has been quite helpful. Again, I greatly appreciate the information and advice!

 

[danemayer]

I may up it to 55psi to get a little higher on the shower

Hi Prairiedog,

Try an experiment: see if the shower is better when using the pump to deliver water from the fresh tank.

If it improves the shower, something is likely restricting water flow - probably before the city water inlet. If the shower is the same, you're likely getting enough water from the outside and the problem may be the restrictor at the shower end, or perhaps a kink or similar problem with the pex lines going to the shower.