Replace Black Water Valve on 2013 Bighorn 3685RL

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
My Black water tank is leaking and I had to put a additional black water valve at the end of the drain pipe, but I am tired of this fix as the black water does not drain properly.

Does anyone have a set of instructions and a video on what I would need to do to replace the old valve which may be jammed half open
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
No video. You have to open/remove the coroplast and move the insulation to expose the valve. You should flush the tank well. I cannot stress this enough. Use the levelers, hydraulic levelers if you have them or blocks under the tires on the opposite side, to tilt the trailer. Let it drain well until there isn't a trickle. Then level. Removal is easy. Same as the gray water valves. I you purchase a replacement valve, you can see just how it is put together. You do not have to replace the cable assembly. Just unscrew the top handle of the new valve. On the old valve is contained in a holder which allow the cable to function. A Allen wrench will loosen the cable and then it can be pulled out of the assembly, and the cable adapter also unscrews from the existing valve. So first remove the old valve by removing the fasteners. Then remove the valve assembly form the pipe and tank. Remove the valve assembly from the cable adapter assembly. Install the new valve into that assembly and reinstall the valve. You have to be very careful not to pop the rubber gaskets out of position when reinstalling. This can happen and well....

Do use a black tank treatment that also lubricates the valve seals, otherwise the valve will eventually grab and pull the gasket out of position. I have only had this happen on the gray tanks and now use the treatment in my gray tanks as well. I use Happy Camper which allows the use of any toilet paper that is approved for home septic tanks. It works well.

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gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Thanks.
I quick question?
Do I have to purchase a special black water valve through Heartland or will the standard unit from Camping world work.

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TIA

Gavin
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Have you tried doing a back flush from the grey tank back into the black tank to loosen up anything that might be stuck in there?

That might be all you need to do . . .
 

Oregon_Camper

Well-known member
Have you tried doing a back flush from the grey tank back into the black tank to loosen up anything that might be stuck in there?

That might be all you need to do . . .

Best to do this with the tank that is above your black tank. From the drawing I got from Heartland, my Galley tank is higher, so that is the one I would use if needed. Call Heartland...have your VIN....and they can send you the layout of your tanks, like I have shown below.

Plumbing.JPG
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Thanks John, yeah I tried that, but no success.
The valve feels like it is stuck and the cable is VERY STIFF and does not go back into the holder, so I am guessing that the valve is bad or the cable of both.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Thanks.
I quick question?
Do I have to purchase a special black water valve through Heartland or will the standard unit from Camping world work.

- - - Updated - - -
TIA

Gavin

Camping World or any place that has the 3" Valtera Valve. Try spraying some silicone spray on the cable handle end. I do this three times a year and it does help keep the cables moving easier. Hopefully the stiffness is in the valve caused by the gaskets being jammed with the gate and you do not have to replace the cable as well. You can tell when the gaskets start deforming when you open the sewer opening and stuff flows out. I also have a gate valve at the drain end of my sewer system.

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Best to do this with the tank that is above your black tank. From the drawing I got from Heartland, my Galley tank is higher, so that is the one I would use if needed. Call Heartland...have your VIN....and they can send you the layout of your tanks, like I have shown below.

View attachment 48748

By the way, If the gate valves were as shown, they would be easier to work on. My front gray and black tank are, but my rear gray is near the exit T and not near the tank. Almost impossible to work on. Heater duck, water lines, tank level wire, and power wire all jammed up around that valve.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
A couple of years ago, I replaced the seals on the valves. Because of the way the plumbing system was assembled, I had to cut one of the lines to get the valves out. However, if you have to do this, Home Depot has the necessary fixtures to reassemble the cut line(s).
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
A couple of years ago, I replaced the seals on the valves. Because of the way the plumbing system was assembled, I had to cut one of the lines to get the valves out. However, if you have to do this, Home Depot has the necessary fixtures to reassemble the cut line(s).
If you need to cut the ABS drain line like Gary and I had to do, the product he is referring to is called a Fernco Coupler.
It is just a thick rubber sleeve with two hose clamps. They work good.

Peace
Dave
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
If you need to cut the ABS drain line like Gary and I had to do, the product he is referring to is called a Fernco Coupler.
It is just a thick rubber sleeve with two hose clamps. They work good.

Peace
Dave

Correct. I cut my pipes to make it easier to install. You have to angle the valve on and then angle the pipe on. The Fernco Couplers do not cost much and looks like this:
Drain Valve 2.JPG
 

donr827

Well-known member
Like mentioned above my black valve had the same problem. I used to spray the cable whenever the cable started getting a little stick. Sometimes the cable itself is not installed correctly.
Don
 
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