Shore Power Not Working and Battery Dead within Two Hours

[jbj]

I just got my new 2017 RW 427 delivered and I'm having some problems. First of all the battery (only one installed ) dies within two hours of turning off the generator. Shore power (30amp)(20amp/110 from the house) doesn't seem to be doing anything. When I hook it up, I hear a beep and a "clunk" like it's powering the system, but no lights work. The microwave clock seems to be working just fine, but that's it. The auto-level shows LOW VOLTAGE.

I put a battery charger on the battery and now all the lights work with it connected, but this morning when I went to turn the generator on, I had to hook the truck up to get enough juice to get the generator running again.

I would think, even though it's only the 30 amp, the shore power would be charging the batteries and the lights would work. But nada.....

So in short, shore power does nothing, and the battery dies VERY quickly. I've checked all the CB's/fuses in the kitchen, and they seem normal. Also, the battery charger is being powered from the same outlet that the charger is plugged in to. So I know the outlet and extension cord are working normally. Regardless, the battery shouldn't die in two hours after the generator was running for a few hours.

I would have thought that this big of a camper would have come with two batteries, so I guess I'll be going to Walmart tomorrow for another. But I'm stumped on why the shore power isn't doing anything and why the battery dies so quickly.

Any ideas? I'd really appreciate any help you guys can give me.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Do you have a volt meter?

The first place to check (and this happens to a LOT of people) is the tiny tiny reset button on the busbar (lower/right on my picture) Looking at my image below you will see it.

With the trailer on shore power check the voltage on the right side...should be around 13.4v. If the breaker has popped, you won't be getting the 13.4v on the left side. Reset the breaker by pushing in on the tiny tiny button. Check for voltage again....do you now get 13.4?

 

[jbj]

I do have a volt meter somewhere. I've been continuing my research, and I've seen that issue come up quite a bit in the forums. Is that the bus that is behind the grey wall in the storage compartment some where? I'll have to look tomorrow. Also, I'm not very savvy when it comes to electric. Do I just apply the volt meter to that bus somewhere in particular? I can probably figure it out, but a heads up would certainly be appreciated. Any of the leads?

Thank you SO MUCH for your help. I truly do appreciate it.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I do have a volt meter somewhere. I've been continuing my research, and I've seen that issue come up quite a bit in the forums. Is that the bus that is behind the grey wall in the storage compartment some where?

No...it will be in the storage compartment you access from the front of the 5th wheel.

Also, I'm not very savvy when it comes to electric. Do I just apply the volt meter to that bus somewhere in particular? I can probably figure it out, but a heads up would certainly be appreciated. Any of the leads?

Might need to enlist the help of a fellow camper to show you how to work the voltmeter. While on shore power, test the busbars connections on the right. One will be 13.4v....that is the in from our converter. Once you find the one at 13.4v....test the other side....guessing it will be around 11.5v. Push the reset button and see if you now get 13.4v

If NONE are 13.4v....then let us know. This means you WILL need to get behind the grey wall and check the converter. Possible issues are 1 of the 3 30amp fuses are blown or it has simply come unplugged....not kidding. It happens all too often.

Thank you SO MUCH for your help. I truly do appreciate it.

No problem...hope I've been clear and you can get this resolved quickly.

Oh...buying a new battery will only get you ~6hrs of power....then it will be dead. You need to find the problem first.


Final question....do you have a residential refrigerator? That can kill a battery in a few hours, as it requires AC power and the RV will have a dedicated inverter (creates AC power from battery) and man-o-man do residential refrigerators chomp through battery power.

After reading your post again, I think you DO have a residential refrigerator and the large "clunk" you are describing is your Transfer Switch, switching over from Shore power (or your generator) to your inverter for AC to the refrigerator. If you want to to dry camp with a residential frig...you have a lot more work ahead of you. Min of 4 batteries and a large solar array will get the job done right.

I did a video on wiring a transfer switch, that might be helpful for you to watch. While you're not actually installing one, it will be helpful for you to understand what it does. Click here to watch the video....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTjOECEhYDM

 

[LBR]

As Oregon Camper mentioned, if you have a residential refrigerator you will need more battery, and your dealer was supposed to have installed 2 new ones with the residential option.

Also check the date of your battery to verify the dealer didn't install an old, worn out lot battery. You don't want to add a second new battery tied in with an old battery.

 

[danemayer]

If your interior 12V DC lighting worked after charging the battery, the problem is most likely with the Power Converter that changes 120V AC into 12V DC. When the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker is tripped, the lights won't get power from the battery.

If the converter isn't supplying power to the battery, the battery will be in a run down condition as it's only getting a slight charge from the truck when towing. That would probably explain why is works for a short while.

1. In the main circuit breaker panel inside the coach, there's a circuit breaker for the Power Converter. Flip it off and back on.
2. Make sure the Power Converter is plugged into its outlet. The converter is usually located behind the rear wall of the pass through basement storage. If unplugged, after plugging it back in, tie it in place.
3. Check the Power Converter's on-board fuses. The are usually 3 blade-type automotive fuses. If the battery was installed backwards for a split second, those fuses will blow.

 

[jbj]

Is this the bus in your pic?



I can't see any sort of a reset on there.



Seems to be working.



Uh....

As of right now, I've got the fridge and most of the lights working to try and duplicate the problem.

 

[danemayer]

On picture 1, the thick wire on the top right comes from your battery. Check between that point and the battery for any additional breakers that may have a reset button. It's also possible you might have a large, square 80 amp breaker somewhere closer to the battery.

 

[jbj]

This was on the power converter. I'm guessing that's the issue???? I'm heading to Walmart for a few more.

Could this fuse be the problem? I'd certainly think so.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

View attachment 54263

This was on the power converter. I'm guessing that's the issue???? I'm heading to Walmart for a few more.

Could this fuse be the problem? I'd certainly think so.

Crossing my fingers for you...but that sure looks like the problem to me. I am guessing your dealer connected the battery incorrectly for a moment (like Dan said above). The issue would not have been known right away as the battery would have been charged and slowly starting to run down.

 

[LBR]

View attachment 54263This was on the power converter. I'm guessing that's the issue???? I'm heading to Walmart for a few more.

Could this fuse be the problem? I'd certainly think so.

By Jove....you'll have that battery up to snuff shortly IMO

 

[dykesj11]

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I had these exact symptoms. 120 outlets worked. Microwave and TV worked. Lights slowly dimmed over time. AC and Norcold refrigerator were out. With truck hooked up, everything worked. Then recalled RV professor in Goshen boot camp saying 12v controls lots of 120v stuff like AC thermostats, non-res reefer controls, etc. Disconnected converter output and checked voltage - ZERO. Fuses were good. Pulled and replaced and all is well. Took opportunity to upgrade to 80amp unit for no particular reason other than may provide future capability. A battery charger set for deep cycle and 10 amps kept us up and running until Amazon delivery the next day. I don't have a wiring diagram and I couldn't figure out why everything worked with generator running.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[jbj]

Well guys, I think you've done it. New fuses are in and everything seems to be working. Shore power is hooked up (30 amp), and everything seems alright. I will leave it unplugged over night and see how the battery is in the morning. But my fingers are crossed.

I can't tell you guys how thankful I am for your help. We're leaving tomorrow for three nights and this has had me stressed out for 24 hours. Beer is on me if I ever get the chance. If you're headed through Elizabeth Colorado, let me know and I'm buying.

Thanks again,

Brian

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Well guys, I think you've done it. New fuses are in and everything seems to be working. Shore power is hooked up (30 amp), and everything seems alright. I will leave it unplugged over night and see how the battery is in the morning. But my fingers are crossed.

I can't tell you guys how thankful I am for your help. We're leaving tomorrow for three nights and this has had me stressed out for 24 hours. Beer is on me if I ever get the chance. If you're headed through Elizabeth Colorado, let me know and I'm buying.

Thanks again,

Brian

Great news!!

However, if you really want to test it, you should turn your refrigerator off. Your inverter for the residential refrig will still empty one battery VERY VERY fast.

With refrig off, you will see how well the battery lasts with a normal load.