LeisureTime
Member
Newbie RV guy question. I was told not to plug in a space heater over 900 watts or it will fry my electrical system in the trailer. Is this true?
Space heater over 900 watts will fry my electric system?
- Thread starter LeisureTime
- Start date
I don't have a North Trail, but I do use a 1500 watt heater. In fact at times two of them.
I don't know how, whoever told you that, came to that conclustion.
Your electrical system is a 30 amp and most likely the circuits inside are 15 amp.
To figure the amp draw on a circuit you will need to divide watts by the known voltage. 120 is the standard, although it will vary.
So, 900 watts divided by 120 volts equal 7.5 amps. Well under the 15 amp breaker protection rating.
You will not be able to run much more on that circuit though.
A toaster is likely around 1,000 watts. Did anyone warn you about using that?
Peace
Dave
I don't know how, whoever told you that, came to that conclustion.
Your electrical system is a 30 amp and most likely the circuits inside are 15 amp.
To figure the amp draw on a circuit you will need to divide watts by the known voltage. 120 is the standard, although it will vary.
So, 900 watts divided by 120 volts equal 7.5 amps. Well under the 15 amp breaker protection rating.
You will not be able to run much more on that circuit though.
A toaster is likely around 1,000 watts. Did anyone warn you about using that?
Peace
Dave
JanAndBill
Well-known member
Your trailer is protected by circuit breakers which will trip before the load "fries" your electrical system. Assuming 110 volts available and a 15 amp circuit in your trailer, you could operate a 1500 watt (13.6 amps) heater and still have a little margin. Plug anything else in though and you'll trip the circuit breaker.
danemayer
Well-known member
My Mr. Coffee machine is labeled 900 watts. So is the toaster. Your microwave is probably at least 900 watts on the input side.
Portable heaters can draw more than that, but as JanAndBill mentioned, it'll be plugged into an outlet that has a protective circuit breaker. If the sum of all appliances on that circuit tries to pull more than what the circuit breaker is rated for, the breaker trips to protect you.
Apart from the discussion about frying things, you do need to be aware of total 110V demand from the various things that are turned on. The power converter in the trailer runs all the time and probably pulls 4-8 amps depending on what mode it's in. If you add the TV, an electric heater, a coffee pot or toaster or microwave, and one more 110V device, you could trip the 30amp breaker for the trailer. To minimize 110V loads, you'll want to run the water heater on propane and perhaps also the refrigerator.
The manuals section of the forum has additional information on electric usage and how everything works. Here's a link.
Portable heaters can draw more than that, but as JanAndBill mentioned, it'll be plugged into an outlet that has a protective circuit breaker. If the sum of all appliances on that circuit tries to pull more than what the circuit breaker is rated for, the breaker trips to protect you.
Apart from the discussion about frying things, you do need to be aware of total 110V demand from the various things that are turned on. The power converter in the trailer runs all the time and probably pulls 4-8 amps depending on what mode it's in. If you add the TV, an electric heater, a coffee pot or toaster or microwave, and one more 110V device, you could trip the 30amp breaker for the trailer. To minimize 110V loads, you'll want to run the water heater on propane and perhaps also the refrigerator.
The manuals section of the forum has additional information on electric usage and how everything works. Here's a link.
pegmikef
Well-known member
I used a small space heater in my North Trail 26LRSS for two years with no problem at all. It was one of those three position 900, 1200, 1500 watts one. You just have to be smart about what other appliances you are using at the same time (e.g., don't use the hair dryer, electric skillet, coffee pot and microwave simultaneously). We routinely ran the heater with the coffee pot, TV and satellite receiver as well as lights. No problem.
brianharrison
Well-known member
I would suspect some of those are on separate circuits. I wouldn't think one 15A circuit would support the entire load (ie greater than 15A draw).
Brian
JanAndBill
Well-known member
Dan you make a good point, on the load on the whole system. We don't really think about it at home because of the much larger service typically 100 amp or better. In an RV with 30 amp service, you kick in the A/C, the microwave, the water heater, coffee pot, etc., and before you know it you've exceeded the total and tripped the breaker, regardless of the fact that they are on different circuits. With 50 amp service it's better, but still it pays to keep in mind the total draw.
wdk450
Well-known member
The big problem drawing high currents (up to the rated circuit breaker rating) is NOT the ratings of the components - rather it is the poor construction techniques and materials used in RV's. To be more specific, I have found that many of the electrical outlets in my 2008 production rig use insulation displacement connectors to connect the wiring to the outlets, instead of the more reliable stripped wire wrapped around a screw. An IDC connection (think Scotchlok) is made by simply pressing an unstripped wire down into a V shaped metal connection point. The insulation of the wire is cut enough to expose the conductor, and the edges of the V shaped connection point then make contact with the edge of the conductor. The problem is that this is a VERY small contact area compared to a wire/screw connection, and is prone to loosen with road vibrations. Loose connections plus high currents equals electrical heating, possible smoke and fire, and poor circuit performance.
I discovered this while observing an electrical heater I was using in my Bighorn that had a pilot light on it. The pilot light flickered when the heater was plugged into some outlets; it didn't flicker when plugged into other outlets. I disassembled the outlet and found the IDC connections.
I would recommend that any outlet you plan to use with a high current device like a heater, be retrofitted with a standard outlet with screw terminations, for safety and peace of mind.
I discovered this while observing an electrical heater I was using in my Bighorn that had a pilot light on it. The pilot light flickered when the heater was plugged into some outlets; it didn't flicker when plugged into other outlets. I disassembled the outlet and found the IDC connections.
I would recommend that any outlet you plan to use with a high current device like a heater, be retrofitted with a standard outlet with screw terminations, for safety and peace of mind.
pegmikef
Well-known member
You're correct Brian. I think there were four or five circuits plus the A/C. I seem to recall the bathroom and kitchen had dedicated circuits (each had a GFi as well), but I am not sure what the others were for. One I think was the entertainment and bed room and the other was living area and outside I think. Anyway the heater was always in a living area outlet.
Virtually all breakers, whether in your home or in your TT, are built and tested to a UL standard that restricts continuous current to 80% of the breaker's handle rating. So a 15 A breaker should only be used for a maximum continuous load of 12 A, which equates to 1440 W at 120 V.
If other electric heating elements are on that same 15 A breaker, like the water heater or the refrigerator, the recommended maximum portable heater size of 900 W would be a prudent recommendation.
If other electric heating elements are on that same 15 A breaker, like the water heater or the refrigerator, the recommended maximum portable heater size of 900 W would be a prudent recommendation.
A powerful appliance like a space heater uses a lot of electricity. You might only be able to utilise a heavy-duty extension cord with a space heater as a result. You can ensure the safety of the cord in this method.
Heavy-duty extension cables frequently come in sizes of 14, 12, or 10 gauge and can support 15 amp loads.
In the market, you might also see an extension cable with a W rating on its label. Weather- or water-resistant is denoted by the letter W. In general, this kind of insulation is sturdy enough to be used outside.
Heavy-duty extension cables frequently come in sizes of 14, 12, or 10 gauge and can support 15 amp loads.
In the market, you might also see an extension cable with a W rating on its label. Weather- or water-resistant is denoted by the letter W. In general, this kind of insulation is sturdy enough to be used outside.
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