Suburban water heater not lighting on propane - 2011 MPG 184

[Barefootdiver2000]

While on a trip to Alaska our Suburban 6 gallon water heater on our 2011 MPG quit working on propane. It had been working fine and then I saw that one of the solenoids must have overheated and had a little bit of melted plastic on it. I got a new gas valve and installed it and it still doesn't work. When I turn the switch on, you can hear the ignitor going click, click, click so I think that means the control board is good, but I never hear the gas valve engage, and it doesn't appear to have gas flowing thru the valve. I have power to the thermostat but no power to the solenoids. The reset buttons are not tripped. Gas stove and furnace work fine so it's not a gas delivery issue.
I don't have any fuse in the panel that says its for the water heater, but I pulled all the fuses and all are good.
Is there an inline fuse I'm missing somewhere? Anything else that I can try before I have to take it somewhere?
Thank you

 

[MDH2021]

If it is working on shore power but not propane you may have a fusible link failed. We have a Dometic water heater and during high winds the heat was blown back from the burner melting the link. Bypassed the link and ran only on electric until spare links arrived. We do not run on propane during high winds anymore.

 

[Barefootdiver2000]

I don't see any fusable links on mine.

 

[Barefootdiver2000]

This is what mine looked liked before the new valve was installed

 

[Dahillbilly]

check the wire connections especially the ground wire on the gas valve

 

[Barefootdiver2000]

All wires have continuity

 

[Bogie]

Take a look at the wiring diagram on page 11 in the Suburban manual. You can find it in the tools section
of the forum HERE

The solenoids and the igniter are connected to the control board. If it is wired correctly and the igniter electrode is sparking, it would suggest that the control board is bad.

 

[Barefootdiver2000]

Take a look at the wiring diagram on page 11 in the Suburban manual. You can find it in the tools section
of the forum HERE

The solenoids and the igniter are connected to the control board. If it is wired correctly and the igniter electrode is sparking, it would suggest that the control board is bad.

Thanks, I had ordered and tried a new board from Amazon and when I put that in, it didn't even start the ignitor. Maybe they sent me a bad board?

 

[Barefootdiver2000]

I tested the board tonight with a multimeter, I have 13v of power to the red wire when plugged into the board and the igniter clicks. Does this mean the board is bad?

 

[Dahillbilly]

remove Brown wire from gas valve & check for voltage while the ignitor is clicking. If you have voltage that's good. Make sure the black wire to gas valve is grounded. If those are good then check the gas valves for continuity across each solenoid. Are you seeing a spark in the flame tube when the ignitor is clicking?