Truck bed mounted hoist for hitch removal hydraulic crane winch etc

porthole

Retired
Have you looked at any bellows for the cylinder? I just had a though a shock boot might be suitable but there are other options. http://www.mcmaster.com/#protective-bellows/=12c2fez

On the winch drain holes on the bottom resting portions and silicone applied to the upper portions might help it survive a little better.

It is the pump piston that is the issue.
The davit and winch are harbor freight stuff - I got about what I expected.

As far as sealing the winch, I'll look into that if I have to replace this one. Part of that problem is the orientation of the winch. I have it mounted vertical on the davit, and probably in the wrong vertical orientation to minimize water intrusion.
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
Duane, do they make a more compacted version of your bed mounted winch. It only needs to have a lifting capacity of 200-300lbs. My dad is having back issues and I'm thinking about installing something like you have. He only needs to lift his tools into the bed. Miter saw, table saw, generator etc...not a lot of weight. It also would go into a Chevy Colorado, so space is an issue. Thanks
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Kinda sounds like you're testing the waters to go full time in the near future.:cool:

Nope. Fulltiming is very likely not to happen here. There's a story there that if we should ever meet, I'll tell it!!!
We are however looking to downsize both our personal possessions and real estate so we can spend more time enjoying our retirement traveling instead of maintaining multiple properties.
One step at a time, as they say!
 
Porthole,

I have the same truck crane in my superduty and I use it for the same purpose... to remove my Superglide hitch when I need to use the full bed of the truck. I just bought Harbor Freight's 2500 lb winch and was pleased to see that you were using it the same way that I intend. I was intending to hard wire the device using #4 wire from the battery to the bed of the truck. I noticed that you have done something different. How do you get power to the winch?

Thanks,

mstumbaugh
mstumbaugh@sbcglobal.net
817-247-5403
 

porthole

Retired
I have industrial truck battery connectors mounted on my rear bumper, connected to the battereis with 2/0 welding cable.
Positive goes to the starter positive with a 200 amp fuse and negative goes to the black at the starter.

We use these connectors for dozens of applications.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-connectors/=15tw0ba

I don't think 4 gauge will be sufficient. You have to take their ratings with a grain of salt. That little winch is working hard using it eh way I do.

And keep in mind, all winches are rated with only one wrap on the drum.
Each wrap lowers the rating.

With that thought I cut my cable to length I needed to maximize he efficiency.

My hydraulic jack is shot, I was just able to get the hitch out of the truck, I will need to find a replacement to get it back in.
And I had to smack the winch motor several times to get that working.

In the spring I will take it apart again and see if it is salvageable.

I would try and keep both the jack and the winch motor out of direct weather. Or leave those parts in the garage until needed.

- - - Updated - - -

In case you didn't see it in my write up, I made a 'bearing' that sits on top of the post and the outer tube rests on it. I used Starboard which is a marine grade polyethylene plastic.
 
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wdk450

Well-known member
I have industrial truck battery connectors mounted on my rear bumper, connected to the battereis with 2/0 welding cable.
Positive goes to the right side battery with a 200 amp fuse and negative goes to the black at the starter.

We use these connectors for dozens of applications.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-connectors/=15tw0ba

I don't think $ gauge will be sufficient. You have tot take their ratings with a grain of salt. That little winch is working hard using it eh way I do.

And keep in mind, all winches are rated with only one wrap on the drum.
Each wrap lowers the rating.

With that thought I cut my cable to length I needed to maximize he efficiency.

My hydraulic jack is shot, I was just able to get the hitch out of the truck, I will need to find a replacement to get it back in.
And I had to smack the winch motor several times to get that working.

In the spring I will take it apart again and see if it is salvageable.

I would try and keep both the jack and the winch motor out of direct weather. Or leave those parts in the garage until needed.

- - - Updated - - -

In case you didn't see it in my write up, I made a 'bearing' that sits on top of the post and the outer tube rests on it. I used Starboard which is a marine grade polyethylene plastic.

You might search internet/phone pages for local hydraulic jack repair companies.
 
I have industrial truck battery connectors mounted on my rear bumper, connected to the battereis with 2/0 welding cable.
Positive goes to the right side battery with a 200 amp fuse and negative goes to the black at the starter.

We use these connectors for dozens of applications.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-connectors/=15tw0ba

I don't think $ gauge will be sufficient. You have tot take their ratings with a grain of salt. That little winch is working hard using it eh way I do.

And keep in mind, all winches are rated with only one wrap on the drum.
Each wrap lowers the rating.

With that thought I cut my cable to length I needed to maximize he efficiency.

My hydraulic jack is shot, I was just able to get the hitch out of the truck, I will need to find a replacement to get it back in.
And I had to smack the winch motor several times to get that working.

In the spring I will take it apart again and see if it is salvageable.

I would try and keep both the jack and the winch motor out of direct weather. Or leave those parts in the garage until needed.

- - - Updated - - -

In case you didn't see it in my write up, I made a 'bearing' that sits on top of the post and the outer tube rests on it. I used Starboard which is a marine grade polyethylene plastic.

Porthole,

Thanks for the response. I am not an electronic wizard and I am slightly confused about your power attachment to the back of your truck. Do you suppose that you could post a picture?

I have had my crane... which is identical to yours... for over two years and have had no problem with rust or operation on the jack. The only time that mine is ever exposed to the weather is when I am pulling the 5th wheel. The rest of the time I have a segmented cover over it. (principally to protect that expensive hitch).

Mike
 

MTPockets

Well-known member
This is good info. I've been considering a crane to more easily load my wife's electric wheelchair. Of course this only works when I'm not hooked to Trailer.

As far as hanging the hitch from the pin box, I do that and find it to be a simple process for my in bed puck mounted Reese 25K hitch. I simply back into place and all that is necessary is to get close. The pucks don't need to align with the four holes in the bed. Just lower until the hitch is resting in the truck bed, release the jaw, pull forward. I then get into the bed and can easily jiggle the hitch into the holes and lock it down.

Removing the hitch is actually a bit easier. Release the hitch clamps, back in and lock the jaws, raise the trailer nose with the hitch jaws locked on the pin and drive away. A padlock can be inserted to the jaw release for security.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
This is good info. I've been considering a crane to more easily load my wife's electric wheelchair. Of course this only works when I'm not hooked to Trailer...

Terry - A number of years ago, there was a Heartlander couple that carried an electric scooter in the truck bed in front of the hitch. In the driver's side front corner of the bed, there was a custom hoist that lifted the scooter in and out of the truck. Unsure whether June's wheelchair collapses but if it does, perhaps there's room in front of your hitch for it.
 

porthole

Retired
This is good info. I've been considering a crane to more easily load my wife's electric wheelchair. Of course this only works when I'm not hooked to Trailer.

As far as hanging the hitch from the pin box, I do that and find it to be a simple process for my in bed puck mounted Reese 25K hitch. I simply back into place and all that is necessary is to get close. The pucks don't need to align with the four holes in the bed. Just lower until the hitch is resting in the truck bed, release the jaw, pull forward. I then get into the bed and can easily jiggle the hitch into the holes and lock it down.

Removing the hitch is actually a bit easier. Release the hitch clamps, back in and lock the jaws, raise the trailer nose with the hitch jaws locked on the pin and drive away. A padlock can be inserted to the jaw release for security.


Didthepinboxhangthingonce,justonce

Did the pinbox hang once, just once.

To hard to get it out of the truck, even harder to get it back in, and once hanging on the pin I had to use ratchet straps to balance the hitch out.

250-300 pound hitches offer a bit more of a challenge.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I don't know how much my hitch weighs . . . but I do know that I almost blew out a 'nad' when I tried to pick it up! :p
 

MTPockets

Well-known member
Terry - A number of years ago, there was a Heartlander couple that carried an electric scooter in the truck bed in front of the hitch. In the driver's side front corner of the bed, there was a custom hoist that lifted the scooter in and out of the truck. Unsure whether June's wheelchair collapses but if it does, perhaps there's room in front of your hitch for it.
Nice thought Jim, I could do that but would have to remove 50 gal fuel tank and tool box between hitch and tank.
 

MP_CS

Well-known member
I don't know how much my hitch weighs . . . but I do know that I almost blew out a 'nad' when I tried to pick it up! :p

I have the same hitch as you do, took it out myself once ��.. After i got my kubota tractor i now use the front end loader and a couple straps, much easier now. Lol
 
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porthole

Retired
pds794 said:
1) Did you put an aluminum plate just on the top of the bed or also on the bottom?
2) What is the purpose of the rubber/plastic strip underneath the section of the plate adjacent to the tailgate?
3) Also, is the black bolt toward the middle of the bed just to prevent the plate/crane from rocking upwards or does it serve another purpose?
4) Lastly, did you tie into the frame at all?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your time,
Peter

Peter,

To answer your questions

1) 1/2" aluminum, top and bottom. The bottom piece is about half the size.

2) That is a piece of plastic, just used as a filler.

3) If the bolt is the one I'm thinking of, it is one of the factory bed bolts.

4) No, didn't think I would have to. But, it sure wouldn't hurt.

I made the installation so that I could remove the vertical pipe if needed (see the 6 acorn nuts?)
I have yet to remove the vertical pipe and I leave the crane's down tube on all the time. I just remove the jib and winch.


Look into an Andersen hitch ��

Maybe, but that is not what this thread is about.


I use a shop/engine hoist from Harbor Freight (around $180). Works like a camp!

Maybe, but that is not what this thread is about.
 
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