TV coax problem

[NYSUPstater]

Asking for a co-worker so forgive me if I don't have all the right info. He has a '15 or '16 Cyclone 45 foot range TH that was purchased used from a non HL dealer year or so ago. Although he has 2 problems (leaky kitchen sink) and TV coax. So to stay on topic, here is the coax problem. After buying it, the bedroom tv was crystal clear while the living room and garage tv's were snowy while on cable hook-up. Took back to dealer and they fiddled with something and now all 3 tv's are snowy. Was out 2 weeks ago and parked next to another RVer who had a sat dish, got to talking, and other RVer brought sat cable over to my co-workers coach to see if it would work (plugged into sat connections) and still nothing. So after that trip, he brought it back to the dealer and said they cannot find the problem with the coax. He's not a happy camper and is stopping by later today and told me he's not taking it back until it's fixed.

So my question is, any ideas as to the problem and where it lies? Easy fix? FWIW, our '18 BC 3560 SS has similar issue, but not to his extent.

I thank you very much in advance.

PS: I don't know if those that use a sat dish also need the box for inside of RV like a stick house, so I don't know if a box is needed was brought over as well. Will assume it was.

 

[danemayer]

COAX from the cable connector in the UDC goes to the Signal Booster, which is often in the bedroom, but sometimes in the main living area. The roof antenna COAX also goes to the Signal Booster. The Signal Booster has a small on/off switch (usually a push-push type) and an LED indicator to let you know when it's ON.

From the Signal Booster, a single COAX wire goes to multiple TV locations such as basement, outside, living room, garage (not all on all floor plans). Since the bedroom TV initially was crystal clear, that's probably the location of the Signal Booster.

So there's probably a loose/bad connection, or disconnected splitter somewhere after the bedroom.

In addition, for cable to work, the Signal Booster must be turned OFF. For over the air TV through the rooftop antenna to work, the Signal Booster must be ON. And even if there's a light at the Signal Booster when ON, he needs to check the 12V DC fusebox. If his fusebox has LED indicators to show a blown fuse, that LED will pass enough power to illuminate the Signal Booster LED, even with a blown fuse. It's easy to short the connections while examining the Signal Booster wiring, so the dealer tech might have blown the fuse. If the Signal Booster is ON, a blown fuse in the fusebox will show up with an illuminated LED next to the fuse.

There are several Cyclone COAX wiring diagrams in this folder. The one for a 2015/6 rig is closer to the bottom of the list, about 2/3 way down.

 

[cookie]

I'm not clear on what you friend is having trouble with, cable or satellite. But, the fix should be the same.
I suggest that he inspect every coax connector.
There are a number of hidden connectors so the process can be a bit involved but not difficult.
Places to look are the connectors behind the UDC. This will involve removing the wall in the basement. Remove the antenna booster and inspect there, remove and check every coax wall plate. If there is a TV in a slide then there will be a barrel connector below the slide under the coroplast. He will have to remove a couple screws and look for that barrel connector.
There may also be other barrel connectors behind the basement wall.
He will have to unscrew each F connector and inspect looking for a shielding wire touching the center signal wire. This seems to be the most common problem.
Also if he is looking to use a satellite receiver then it is not uncommon for the plugs in the UDC to be mislabeled.
He might want to purchase a signal toner or use an ohm meter to check for continuity or shorts.

Peace
Dave

 

[pegmikef]

I'm not clear on what you friend is having trouble with, cable or satellite. But, the fix should be the same.
I suggest that he inspect every coax connector.
There are a number of hidden connectors so the process can be a bit involved but not difficult.
Places to look are the connectors behind the UDC. This will involve removing the wall in the basement. Remove the antenna booster and inspect there, remove and check every coax wall plate. If there is a TV in a slide then there will be a barrel connector below the slide under the coroplast. He will have to remove a couple screws and look for that barrel connector.
There may also be other barrel connectors behind the basement wall.
He will have to unscrew each F connector and inspect looking for a shielding wire touching the center signal wire. This seems to be the most common problem.
Also if he is looking to use a satellite receiver then it is not uncommon for the plugs in the UDC to be mislabeled.
He might want to purchase a signal toner or use an ohm meter to check for continuity or shorts.

Peace
Dave

A lot of times we have found the connectors were poorly crimped or otherwise attached to the cable and you can easily pull them off. Other times, as Dave said, it is as simple as they are simply not screwed on tightly (especially the ones on barrel connectors under the coroplast located where there is a tv in the slide). At one rally we found five that needed tightening (one wasn't even connected).

 

[Sowie]

On my 4200 Cyclone there are a bunch of splitters above the LR tv where the surround speakers are. It would be worth checking there also.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SNOKING]

I have one of these tools for tightening coax connectors.

https://www.techtoolsupply.com/Prod...MI7Ynmq8Lw3AIVl_hkCh3CJglQEAQYBSABEgLBcvD_BwE

 

[pegmikef]

I have one of these tools for tightening coax connectors.

https://www.techtoolsupply.com/Prod...MI7Ynmq8Lw3AIVl_hkCh3CJglQEAQYBSABEgLBcvD_BwE

Thanks much. I have been looking for one of those off and on for years!

 

[NHCelt]

If you are attempting to use satellite tv with rv wiring, the wiring may be an issue...but the connectors used are DEFINITELY an issue.

Barrell connectors must be high frequency 3GHZ F81 ceramic type. They frequently have blue colored ceramic. This is critical if using a small portable antenna like a dish tailgater. You may get away with one of the wrong type, but two will virtually eliminate any possibility of getting a usable signal.

Explained below;


https://www.tselectronic.com/tech_notes/right_f81.php