Universal Docking Center Valves - Help?

TerribleTim68

Well-known member
Hey guys,
So my unit is a 2008 Cyclone 4012 that we purchased used, from a small lot, with no intro to the systems or anything. It has a UDC that looks EXACTLY like this -
Docking Station Valve-Connections, etc. 002.jpg
The biggest thing to note is that mine has NO stickers on it to say what does what. None, not a single sticker is left alive, not even at the city water connection (but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know what that does). So I have learned through trial and error that of the two valves shown here on the blue tubes, the valve on the right is the low point drain for the water system. I also learned that I can run the pump and drain the fresh water tank through this valve. So I think I understand the valve on the right (even though this one clearly states it is the low point drain, mine had no sticker, so I learned on my own).

The big question here is this -
What is the valve on the left? What does it do? This valve on my unit has been "open" (?) since I purchased it (I'm assuming it is open because the little handle is pointed "down" just like you see in this picture, which opens the other one when pointed in the same direction). I read in an archived forum posts that the valve on the left is the hot water low point drain. But if that's the case, why was I able to turn on the hot water tank and get hot water at the shower with this valve in the open position? I don't think it is the hot water low point drain. Or if it is, mine is not working correctly because it seems to be closed when in the open position.

Is there a diagram or manual for this system that explains how everything works? I see tons of manuals and diagrams for the Anderson 4-way setup, but what about those of us who don't have that system?
I also see 3 tubes coming out of the bottom of the RV. I know the one is the low point drain for the valve on the right, because when I opened that valve water began coming out of that tube. No water has ever come out of any of these tubes with the valve on the left in the open position, so the remaining 2 tubes are a mystery to me.

Also, bonus points for anyone who can explain how to get that stupid blue water hose off of the water outlet shown at the top of the image too! Mine appears to have a connection similar to an air hose (quick connect style) but it doesn't seem to budge no matter what I do to it. All it does is spin around and around! Not that I don't like the hose there, but it's a pain in the butt to constantly have to work around the hose and spray nozzle that is hanging in the bottom of the UDC area.
 

WillyBill

Well-known member
Hey guys,
So my unit is a 2008 Cyclone 4012 that we purchased used, from a small lot, with no intro to the systems or anything. It has a UDC that looks EXACTLY like this -
View attachment 59764
The biggest thing to note is that mine has NO stickers on it to say what does what. None, not a single sticker is left alive, not even at the city water connection (but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know what that does). So I have learned through trial and error that of the two valves shown here on the blue tubes, the valve on the right is the low point drain for the water system. I also learned that I can run the pump and drain the fresh water tank through this valve. So I think I understand the valve on the right (even though this one clearly states it is the low point drain, mine had no sticker, so I learned on my own).

The big question here is this -
What is the valve on the left? What does it do? This valve on my unit has been "open" (?) since I purchased it (I'm assuming it is open because the little handle is pointed "down" just like you see in this picture, which opens the other one when pointed in the same direction). I read in an archived forum posts that the valve on the left is the hot water low point drain. But if that's the case, why was I able to turn on the hot water tank and get hot water at the shower with this valve in the open position? I don't think it is the hot water low point drain. Or if it is, mine is not working correctly because it seems to be closed when in the open position.

Is there a diagram or manual for this system that explains how everything works? I see tons of manuals and diagrams for the Anderson 4-way setup, but what about those of us who don't have that system?
I also see 3 tubes coming out of the bottom of the RV. I know the one is the low point drain for the valve on the right, because when I opened that valve water began coming out of that tube. No water has ever come out of any of these tubes with the valve on the left in the open position, so the remaining 2 tubes are a mystery to me.

Also, bonus points for anyone who can explain how to get that stupid blue water hose off of the water outlet shown at the top of the image too! Mine appears to have a connection similar to an air hose (quick connect style) but it doesn't seem to budge no matter what I do to it. All it does is spin around and around! Not that I don't like the hose there, but it's a pain in the butt to constantly have to work around the hose and spray nozzle that is hanging in the bottom of the UDC area.

Hey TT,

The shower hose unplugs like a shop air hose. Push in a bit on the hose male end and while holding in on it push/slide in on the ring that just spins on the female fitting and hose male end should pull out.

Good Luck,

WB
 

WillyBill

Well-known member
Is there a screw on water filter behind the UDC? Possibly hooked up to both of those valves?

To my knowledge, there was no factory offering like that but a previous owner may have self-installed something back there. There is usually room.

WB
 
My shower hose is also difficult to remove at times. Make certain that no pressure remains in the hose, spray with WD 40 and work hose in and out at connector as explained above has always got it released.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
With older rigs, there were three drains sticking out the bottom of the rig. One for the hot water plumbing, another for the cold, and the third for the fresh water tank. Mine all have valves on the section hanging under the rig. I don't believe the hot water low point drain will actually drain the water heater, however. That is done by removing the anode rod after the water has cooled. At least, I've not tried to drain the water heater via the low point drain. Maybe next time.

With my UDC, there are two valves that control the water heater and the water pump. One is to bypass the water heater for winterizing and the other changes the input to the water pump from the tank to a hose that is used to draw antifreeze from outside.
 

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wdk450

Well-known member
Yes, you have a UDC that seems pretty strange. For the electrical switch, turn it on and see if you can hear the water pump start up - even better if you turn on the shower faucet there. For the possible hot water low point drain valve, run the water heater for an hour or so, connect city water (or turn on the pump), open the valve for a while, and see if the water coming out gets hot.

For my curiosity, where are your sewer tank dump valve handles? They are normally in the UDC.
 

TerribleTim68

Well-known member
...For my curiosity, where are your sewer tank dump valve handles? They are normally in the UDC.
Nope, they are not. The sewer tank drain valve handles are inside a separate door just to the "rear" of the main UDC -
Capture.JPG

- - - Updated - - -

For the electrical switch, turn it on and see if you can hear the water pump start up - even better if you turn on the shower faucet there.
Yeah, the switch will run the pump no problem. You can hear it run and I used it to drain the fresh tank out the low point drain.

For the possible hot water low point drain valve, run the water heater for an hour or so, connect city water (or turn on the pump), open the valve for a while, and see if the water coming out gets hot.
Great idea, I hadn't thought of that.

- - - Updated - - -

With older rigs, there were three drains sticking out the bottom of the rig. One for the hot water plumbing, another for the cold, and the third for the fresh water tank.
Yeah, it does have three hoses hanging down. I have determined that one of them is definitely the cold water low point drain. The other two I have yet to figure out how to make do anything.

I don't believe the hot water low point drain will actually drain the water heater, however. That is done by removing the anode rod after the water has cooled. At least, I've not tried to drain the water heater via the low point drain. Maybe next time.
Yeah, I also need to figure out how to remove that anode rod. I'm not even sure how to access it. In all my years of owning an RV, no-one ever mentioned that to me. So maybe I better get on that, lol.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Yeah, I also need to figure out how to remove that anode rod. I'm not even sure how to access it. In all my years of owning an RV, no-one ever mentioned that to me. So maybe I better get on that, lol.

The water heater has an exterior cover that is removed. If you have a Suburban Water Heater, take a look at our owner-written Water Heater Usage Guide for info on the anode rod. If you have an Atwood unit, their tanks are constructed differently and they don't have an anode rod. Instead there's a drain plug.
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
Is it true that you should only turn the valve clockways (left to right) to go from tank - city - winterize ..? During my PDI the tech told me this .?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Is it true that you should only turn the valve clockways (left to right) to go from tank - city - winterize ..? During my PDI the tech told me this .?
Anderson has told me it doesn't matter. They also told me that it shouldn't matter if you're hooked up to city water and turn the valve control. But some people believe otherwise.

Make sure you filter your water. The Anderson engineers have found that unfiltered water with high particulate content can cause a problem. The particulates stick to the Molycote lube used inside the valve and cause wear and tear to the o-rings.

Btw, Anderson has introduced a direct replacement/upgrade that uses all brass construction. It's the same form factor, so it's pretty easy to install. Check it out at abcorv.com. They're so confident that it'll work without problems that it has a 5 year warranty.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Remove any water pressure before turning the valve.
I turn mine from 6 o’clock to 9 o’clock and back again without issue since I started to turn off the water and remove the pressure



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Dmetcalf

Well-known member
Remove any water pressure before turning the valve.
I turn mine from 6 o’clock to 9 o’clock and back again without issue since I started to turn off the water and remove the pressure



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tgank you for the reply. Good information about relieving tge pressure first ..!
 
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