Waste Gate Valve Lubrication

[JanAndBill]

After dealing with cable operated waste gate valves that took two arms and two feet to operate, I had enough. Removed the inner cable enough that I could force Silicon Spray down the housing, which helped, but didn't solve the problem. The biggest improvement was when I sprayed the actuator rod on the valve itself with Silicon Spray. This rod goes into a rubber seal that tends to get dry and binds. Silicon will lubricate it and not attract dirt. Now the valves open and close with one finger. Going to make this part of my yearly maintenance schedule.

 

[Westwind]

Bill - How did you have to get to it, I have a 3070RL and right now I have a valve that isn't shutting completely so I have a surprise every time I take the end cap off. I bought a twist on end cap valve yesterday to solve the problem but I would like to solve the problem and use the twist on end valve as a backup (Just in case). I really don't have faith in the cables longevity and we have used our trailer 3 seasons now.

 

[MTPockets]

I haven't tried it, but I've read posts about lubricating with vegetable oil by pouring down drain after dumping. There are also commercial lubricants, Camco sells them. Anyone know how these work?

 

[GOTTOYS]

I haven't tried it, but I've read posts about lubricating with vegetable oil by pouring down drain after dumping. There are also commercial lubricants, Camco sells them. Anyone know how these work?

I don't know how that can work. Oil floats on top of water. The valve is located in a low spot on the tank and any oil dumped in the tank would float on top of the water not reaching the valve...Just a thought.. By the way, that twist on valve on the end of the sewer pipe is the best thing I ever bought! Should be standard equipment just for a back up...Don

 

[JanAndBill]

Bill - How did you have to get to it, I have a 3070RL and right now I have a valve that isn't shutting completely so I have a surprise every time I take the end cap off. I bought a twist on end cap valve yesterday to solve the problem but I would like to solve the problem and use the twist on end valve as a backup (Just in case). I really don't have faith in the cables longevity and we have used our trailer 3 seasons now.

Oh yeah, "the suprise"!! Mine got so bad I would check to see anyone was watching before I'd remove the cap. Putting an outside valve on will work temporarily - until what's in the pipe freezes. My black tank valve got so bad it caused the cable to fail. You can either pull the whole coroplast bottom or do what I did. Request a drawing of your tanks and valves from Heartland for your trailer, which will give you a close approximate location. I then cut a hole large enough to give me access. When I was done I used some aluminum plate to overlap the hole, and screws into the frame to seal up the hole. I used automotive "clip nuts" and screws along the edge of the coroplast, secure it. I then duct taped the edges to waterproof it. In the future it will take less than 5 mins to remove the access hatch.

The drag wasn't inside the valve, those wiper seals get enough lubrication from the tanks. The actuator rod on the valve goes through another rubber plug/seal that apparently doesn't get lubrication. The only way to lubricate it is from outside. Don't use a petroleum base lubricant, it can cause the rubber seal to degrade.

 

[azbigfoot]

Bill ... thanks for this info. Mine are getting semi-difficult to operate after a year. This goes on my still growing TODO list.

 

[sjs731]

I pulled the coroplast down and sprayed the actuator rods on the valves on our Sundance. It made a huge difference. I had a gray valve sticking and every time I dumped I had a nice rush of soapy water when I took the cap off the pipe.


Steve

 

[SilverRhino]

I have talked to a number of people who use cheap vegetable oil in the tanks to lubricate the valves. Good friend that has a motohome swears by this, and does it twice a year. He empties his tanks and then pours in two cups of oil, after which, he cycles the valves a few times. I have opened the valves on his tanks and they work much smoother than mine, so when it warms up a little I am going to give this a try. Tanks of course need to be empty, so the majority of the oil gets to the valve, it would not do much if any good if there was "water" in the tanks.

Seems like a cheap and easy fix, so why not give it a try. You can get oil cheaper than buying the specialized progucts from the RV companies. Of course if this doesn't work, then I am going to have to pull the coroplast down and lube them the hard way

 

[danemayer]

I have talked to a number of people who use cheap vegetable oil in the tanks to lubricate the valves. Good friend that has a motohome swears by this, and does it twice a year.

I've tried the lubricants and oils added to the tanks without any improvement.

The biggest improvement was when I sprayed the actuator rod on the valve itself with Silicon Spray.

Got underneath last week and gave Gray #1's valve plunger a good shot of silicone spray and managed to get the Black Tank Valve plunger with a light spray from a distance. Both are now operating smooth and easy. Now I have to get to Gray #2.

Thanks Jan and Bill.

 

[Westwind]

Installed the external valve at the end of the sewer pipe connection . After getting wet feet 4 times this past season I decided that this was the way to go. I intend to drop the bottom covering next spring and lube all the gate valves on the 3 tanks but this will provide backup should any of them fail in the future.

 

[Toy1Ton]

Murphy soap works for me, add a couple times a year work the vale a couple of times when added