It is located in the water heater. You can access it from outside your RV. Find the squarish white vented cover, usually in the off-door-side (street side) of the RV. Remove it with the thumb-turn.
There are 2 items that are screwed into the front portion of the water heater. An anode rod and an electric heating element. The heating element will have two screws on the end of it with wires connected to it. It looks like the image below, although you will only see the end with the terminals on it. The end with the heating element loop is inside the tank.
I have and recommend an element socket (1.5" hex I believe) like the one below. I got mine at an Ace Hardware (link to item).
Jim
I am sure my electric element is fried. to change do you just disconnect wires and remove then put the new one back in. I am not a mechanic or electrician is it easy as changing and anode rod?
Is there only one element or is there a top and bottom?
My BH has a Suburn heater in it.
Thanks Wayne
Hay Wayne
The heating element in the Suburban water heater should be as easy as changing out the anode, except to disconnect the two wires..
I suggest that you take a picture of the heater and the element so when you go to put it back you can always look at it to see what goes where.
The things that are on the water heater is the electric element, anode, pressure valve and propane heat element. Probably the hardest part to changing the electric element is the removal, like with the anode or pressure valve. May be hard to start turning to remove...
Hey Wayne,,, I know you know to do it..but just as a reminder,,,. but be sure heater is turned off or trailer unplugged from electricity, so you will not get a hair curling surprise, if you have any hair, and water is turned off so you will not get a surprise hot bath.
Thanks Guys
I have changed the Anode rod before . The water was cold But I got wet. Is that little flip up valve how you release the pressure. I have not looked inside behind the wall yet but I assume that is where the element and wires are. I will buy one so when I get home I can change it when I winterize and also change the Anode rode. Jim sounds like you made it through IKE OK. Thank God ! The damage on TV even into Houston is unbelievable.
When I get the ele changed after our last outing in early Oct. I will Let you know
Thanks again
Wayne
Rather than release the tank pressure using the relief valve on the tank (that lever), I suggest you run a hot water tap in the trailer for a minute with the fresh water to your trailer shut off and the water pump off. This will remove some of the hot water from the tank and will not refill that water and thereby relieve some pressure.
I changed my anode rod out once and there was HOT water in the tank and like the newbie I was, got nice and soaked with hot water and mineral debris and nearly impaled by the anode rod as it shot across my lot
Hey guys, I just put an ammeter on my 120v heating element and got zilcho. Power turned on, 5'er plugged in. Any clues. I haven't yet climbed in to see where the little white and black wires go to.
Make sure you have switched the black rocker switch to ON. This switch is located out the outside accessible area of the water heater in the lower left corner. If this is the first time using the electric heating element, there may be a tiny cotter pin in that switch that will need to be pulled out first.
Hey guys, I just put an ammeter on my 120v heating element and got zilcho. Power turned on, 5'er plugged in. Any clues. I haven't yet climbed in to see where the little white and black wires go to.
I read on another forum (www.myrvtalk.com) that the resistance on a good element should be about 11 ohms. A blown element should read open (no resistance).
Thanks guys, I will check the element resistance. I just figured out why it had no power.......little black switch went bad. Checked power at the red switch inside the rig...good.Opened a little box where these wires lead.....good. Next "junction" was the black switch. Checked resistance open vs. closed....no change. Found an identical switch in this little po dunk town. Checked for resitance prior to hooking it up......about a 4 ohm change, not much but better than the old one. Plugged it in and viola, power to the heater element.
make sure there is power to the element 110 than with power off disconnect white and black wire and check for continuity with omh meter if no continuity the element is bad, if no power check reset button and the circuit breaker when replacing element it doesn't matter witch wire white or black goes to the terminals
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.