Water Heater

[BruteForce]

I just took possession of our new 2010 395RW yesterday. We're prepping for our first trip next week.

Connected the hose to City Water, flushed out the antifreeze and let faucets (including hot water) run for 15 minutes. Fired up the water heater.

No hot water. Clearly, I'm missing a valve that allows water to enter the water heater, but I have no idea where it's at.

The only valves I can see are underneath; one red and one blue - and I believe those are low drain valves. There's also another one (white) thats just under the drain open valves and it was in the open position. Moving it to closed did nothing for the water heater.

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[tmcran]

Have you looked at the back of the water heater? On my Sundance 2998 RB there is a hot water outlet and cold water inlet with a bypass valve between them. . Be sure the bypass valve is in the correct position. You will be able to hear water going into the water tank. You can also open the relief valve on the water heater untill water runs out of it. Don't turn on the heater element until you know for sure the tank has water in it.

 

[jimtoo]

Hi BruteForce,

You need to find the back side of your water heater, may need to remove a panel someplace, but on the back you should see a line going in and a line coming out. There should be a line connecting the two lines together also. There should be 3 valves, one in each line, the ones going in should be in the open position and the one between the two should be closed to get water in the waterheater. Also another thing to check is if you have an outside shower, make sure the valves are turned off and not just turned off at the shower head.

Jim M

 

[BruteForce]

Hi BruteForce,

You need to find the back side of your water heater, may need to remove a panel someplace, but on the back you should see a line going in and a line coming out. There should be a line connecting the two lines together also. There should be 3 valves, one in each line, the ones going in should be in the open position and the one between the two should be closed to get water in the waterheater. Also another thing to check is if you have an outside shower, make sure the valves are turned off and not just turned off at the shower head.

Jim M

Not sure how to get behind the water heater. Immediately behind it (as far as I can tell) is the half time oven/cook top (on the inside). Pulled drawers out inside the MH, but didn't see anything there either.

 

[Jellystone]

Congrats on the new Road Warrior, y'all made a terrific choice. As far as the water heater, you are correct on the red/blue lines hanging down being low point drains. The white one hanging down is the drain for the fresh water holding tank. You have 2 options on the water heating #1-use propane, turn a bottle on and flip the DSI heater switch on your control panel in the living room. You will hear it turn on if you stand in the master bedroom or forward bathroom. #2-use electricity, flip the red light switch near the control panel. Also open the water heater door outside the unit and look for the flip switch on the heater itself On/Off. ALWAYS make sure that you have water in the water heater before attempting to heat it (open a hot water faucet and make sure water flows freely, not air spitting and sputtering,also open the petcock type valve in water heater itself & make sure water comes out). The only other thing would be the hot water heater bypass valve. It could be winterized and the heater is bypassed. Put the water heater back in the loop. Let us know if you need more detailed help.

 

[BruteForce]

Went inside the RV and remove the air return cover (inside the kitchen) and pushed my flashlight in.

About 3' in there, but behind a wall, I can see the valves. I have no idea how I'm supposed to reach those. There's an access panel inside the storage area up front, but again - my arms just aren't long enough to get in there, or get past all the wiring and heater ducts.

A few photos:

 

[tmcran]

You can access the water heater by removing a panel. Mine on the Sundance is located under the entertainment center. Remove two screws and it easy to get to.

 

[irvin56]

can you not just undo the heating duct line

(looks like it is a screw clamp on it) and push it into the openning.
once valve are set, just reinstall the duct ?

can not see the complete pics of framing. but can that be done?
maybe the easiest and least amount of dismanteling things?

 

[jimtoo]

OK,, from the pictures you posted it looks like the docking center (water hookups and stuff) is right next to the water heater. If you look behind the docking center (in storage area) a panel should be there, 3 or 4 screws in left corner of docking center and a couple on the other end of panel, remove the panel behind docking center and you should be able to reach behind waterheater.... the setup looks just like my 3055. Heater next to docking center.

 

[BruteForce]

While I did finally get the valves re-positioned (it was in the winterized mode), I had to fabricate a 1.5' wooden dowl with a bent nail at the tip to reach the valves - via the cold air return in the kitchen area.

The only other way to access those valves would have been from the master bathroom by removing the floor heater vent, ripping that tape out and putting my hand in that way.

There just has to be a better method to access those valves.

 

[tmcran]

I can't believe there is not a easy way to get to the water heater. All I have to do is removee the panel under the entertainment center. I guess the Sundance is different than your model. Good luck.

 

[truknutt]

I think Jimtoo is onto the right solution. Removing the access panel in the basement should allow easy access to the back of your water heater. If I were you and this were my maiden voyage, I would get the rear of the UDC and make sure ALL the connections are tight anyway.

 

[BruteForce]

I emptied the storage compartment to the left of the water center and looked for an access panel. There was none. There is a small porthole, but its too far away to reach the back of the water heater.

Next question though:

On my power center (where you engage the GenSet and review water/tank levels), there's a Heater button (that seems to fire the propane for the water heater). On the wall by the sink there's a red light-switch style button. I assume this is either for a fresh water tank heater (to keep it from freezing) or for engaging the electrical water heater.

Flipping the button on turns on the light in the switch, but doesn't seem to do anything for the water heater. If this is indeed for the electrical water heater, do I have to take the cotter pin out of the ON/OFF switch at the water heater and also flip that switch to on?

The documentation I was supplied only shows installation, but not practical use inside the 395RW. The walk through was so quick that some of this stuff really wasn't covered in depth.

I think Jimtoo is onto the right solution. Removing the access panel in the basement should allow easy access to the back of your water heater. If I were you and this were my maiden voyage, I would get the rear of the UDC and make sure ALL the connections are tight anyway.

 

[jnbhobe]

The wall with the port hole will come out with the removal of 6 or 8 screws, then you can access the water heater... The wall switch that looks like a household light switch is the electric water heater (it lites red when on) do not turn it on without water in the tank. The switch on the tank with the pin in it has to be turned on to work on electric (just leave that one on) JON

 

[truknutt]

I emptied the storage compartment to the left of the water center and looked for an access panel. There was none. There is a small porthole, but its too far away to reach the back of the water heater.

Next question though:

On my power center (where you engage the GenSet and review water/tank levels), there's a Heater button (that seems to fire the propane for the water heater). On the wall by the sink there's a red light-switch style button. I assume this is either for a fresh water tank heater (to keep it from freezing) or for engaging the electrical water heater.

Flipping the button on turns on the light in the switch, but doesn't seem to do anything for the water heater. If this is indeed for the electrical water heater, do I have to take the cotter pin out of the ON/OFF switch at the water heater and also flip that switch to on?

The documentation I was supplied only shows installation, but not practical use inside the 395RW. The walk through was so quick that some of this stuff really wasn't covered in depth.

First and foremost ensure that your hot water tank has water in it.

To use the electric side of the water heater, YES, you have to pull the cotter pin and turn the switch on. You can leave this on as it is a safety measure to ensure you don't use the heater WITHOUT water in it. I turn it off and reinstall the pin when I winterize the unit.

Next flip on the red switch you mentioned. On our Cyclone it is located on the panel below the kitchen sink. It'll take a little while to heat up that 12 gallon tank so be patient.

The red switch on the main panel is to ignite the propane side of the water heater.

 

[BruteForce]

Thanks, all.

I think that about covers it. I was hoping there was a fresh water heater to keep my water from freezing, but I'm going to assume that as long as I keep the inside temp at 40F and the bottom is covered, that I shouldn't freeze up between now and Thursday (when I head for warmer weather).

 

[jimtoo]

The walk through was so quick that some of this stuff really wasn't covered in depth.

This is where I have a problem. Your dealer did you a big disservice if he hurried you through the PDI. The dealer should have been willing to stay and explain the operation of every item. You should have insisted on water hookup, sewer drain and operation of every item in the unit including TV and satellite if you use it.

To many times this happens.

Jim M

 

[truknutt]

I emptied the storage compartment to the left of the water center and looked for an access panel. There was none. There is a small porthole, but its too far away to reach the back of the water heater.

The access panel we refer to means actually unscrewing a section of the basement wall and removing the panel. My Cyclone has only 4 black screws holding it in place. This will allow you access to the back of the UDC, the water pump and SHOULD allow you to see the back of the water heater.

 

[BruteForce]

Agreed. I was also charged something like $900 for the PDI too. Another delaer 180 miles north didn't charge for the PDI.

This is where I have a problem. Your dealer did you a big disservice if he hurried you through the PDI. The dealer should have been willing to stay and explain the operation of every item. You should have insisted on water hookup, sewer drain and operation of every item in the unit including TV and satellite if you use it.

To many times this happens.

Jim M

 

[Mike Aplin]

I would suggest contacting the dealer that you purchased the new unit from. I also suggest to customers that during the walk around of your new unit that the customer uses a video recorder that you can then refer back to anytime day or night for a quick reference. Your dealer should be able to take care your questions for you and also you can always contact our customer service here at Heartland. We are here to help assist you in any way that we can. I am so happy that you joined the Heartland RV family and we are here to always help assist you.
Take care,
Mike