Water Keeps Leaking From Tanks Possibly

6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
Hey All!

I need some assistance troubleshooting a water leak. The RV park (Desert Eagle RV Park) we are staying at shut the water off earlier this week (maybe it was last week?) without notice to fix a line somewhere, so we were without water all day. When it came back on, I decided to fill the fresh water tank about 75% so we have some water if it happens again. Every since then, when we wake up in the morning, water is pouring from underneath. We drained the tank and it would be fine all day, then by morning, water is leaking from the bottom again. We have the Anderson Valve. Is it possible the valve isn't working as it should and is allowing water to go to the tank even when it is set to city?

I'm at a loss and I'm sure the Park is going to say something to me eventually. I need to get it fixed but not certain where to start. If it's the valve, anywhere know where I can get it in Las Vegas?

Thank you in advance for the help!

Josh
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
When you say leaking from the bottom, do you mean the fresh water tank overflow towards the back of the trailer? If so, Anderson valve should be the problem. You could fill the fresh water tank and use it while you camp and get the Anderson valve fixed later. If not, then you may have to drop the coroplast to see if it is your tank. Your fresh water tank should be over the rear axles.

There is a mobile RV repair in Los Vegas. http://generalqualityrvrepair.com/
 

6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
When you say leaking from the bottom, do you mean the fresh water tank overflow towards the back of the trailer? If so, Anderson valve should be the problem. You could fill the fresh water tank and use it while you camp and get the Anderson valve fixed later. If not, then you may have to drop the coroplast to see if it is your tank. Your fresh water tank should be over the rear axles.

There is a mobile RV repair in Los Vegas. http://generalqualityrvrepair.com/
Yes, I believe it's coming from the fresh water tank overflow or vent line. The coroplast is full of water, bowing in the center. I had to poke a small hole in it to drain the water. I'll probably have to replace it once we move to NM at the end of the month and get settled.

I'll give those folks a call. Thank you for the link.

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danemayer

Well-known member
Take a look at our owner-written Fresh Tank Fills by Itself user guide. It'll help you understand what's happening and how to tell if the problem is with the Anderson Valve or with the water pump.

It's not difficult to fix either cause by yourself.
 
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6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
Take a look at our owner-written Fresh Tank Fills by Itself user guide. It'll help you understand what's happening and how to tell if the problem is with the Anderson Valve or with the water pump.

It's not difficult to fix either cause by yourself.
I forgot about those guides! Thank you for the link. It's definitely leaking at the valve. I have to wait until Monday to see if either Johnny Walker or Affordable RV Repair have it. Otherwise it looks like the only place is through one of Anderson's distributors listed on their website.

Can those cartridges be rebuilt with new o-rings?

I'm thinking about capping that side of the valve to continue using the city. Running off that pump is a bit annoying.

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danemayer

Well-known member
If you can find a cap that fits, that would be a short-term workaround. Another workaround would be to pick up a Sharkbite press-on gate valve to put on the line to the fresh tank.

If you call Anderson, they'll likely send you a free replacement cartridge. I doubt you can repair the cartridge.
 

6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
I'll try calling Anderson to see what they have to say. $35 is quite expensive! I saw your post come through right after I left Lowe's with a cap and plug (for the hose).

If they won't hook me up, I may just get a ball valve. I don't think the sharkbite will fit the rubber camco hose that comes right off the valve assembly.

Thanks for the suggestions!

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travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
I recently ordered a replacement Anderson core from HL parts (our second) as ours failed again and filled the FW tank. HL charged me for this one, $41 shipped to Texas.
While waiting for its arrival I replaced the damaged o-ring with an o-ring from the original core I had kept from the first replacement. The o-rings are formed to fit the contour of the round nylon core. I don’t know where any could be found elsewhere.
Capping the line to the FW tank seems extreme IMO.


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6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
I recently ordered a replacement Anderson core from HL parts (our second) as ours failed again and filled the FW tank. HL charged me for this one, $41 shipped to Texas.
While waiting for its arrival I replaced the damaged o-ring with an o-ring from the original core I had kept from the first replacement. The o-rings are formed to fit the contour of the round nylon core. I don’t know where any could be found elsewhere.
Capping the line to the FW tank seems extreme IMO.


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I wonder if Ace hardware would have o-rings that would work? If I end up getting a replacement cartridge I'll check it out. Definitely not pulling it out without a replacement beforehand. With 4 kids, it'll be hectic to go without water for any length of time.

I capped off the FW line to the tank simply to keep anything from going down it. It was only $1.50 for both cap and plug. Now I say that, the vent line is probably open with no screen. Oh well!

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travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Here’s the Anderson valve core with the damaged o-ring...
bcaf4b762c4fa0345ad37892a5496cfe.jpg

The next 2 images depict it’s not a true o-ring by definition. The rubber ring is formed to specifically fit the groove in the core. Hence my earlier comment about availability...
a5f94516942dceff98bf0e676f225689.jpg
a9baa979f25c969bbd13b0b3170d0f8b.jpg

Upon replacement I’d suggest, as I did, use additional lubricant. It comes with some but I found the core moves more freely with additional jelly.


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6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
If you are having water on top of the COROPLAST, then it may be a PEX or tank leak as well.

It was definitely the fresh water tank over filling. The coroplast is some heavy duty stuff! It held quite a bit of water before it started pouring over the edges, after pulled it down a little. After capping the valve off we haven't had a problem since.

- - - Updated - - -

Here’s the Anderson valve core with the damaged o-ring...
The next 2 images depict it’s not a true o-ring by definition. The rubber ring is formed to specifically fit the groove in the core. Hence my earlier comment about availability...
Upon replacement I’d suggest, as I did, use additional lubricant. It comes with some but I found the core moves more freely with additional jelly.


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That makes more sense. Thank you for sharing the pictures of what it looks like. I'll just get a new one, plus a spare. Will the standard silicone lubricant that's used on cartridges found on the valves in homes work on this cartridge?
 

LBR

Well-known member
It's a good idea to always bleed off all water pressures...shut off the incoming shore water line and open a faucet inside before twisting the Anderson knob. This can help eliminate damaging that fragile O-ring.
 

6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
That's what we do, not certain if that's what the previous owners did.

This was the first time we've had the RV constantly hooked up to water. In December, we went to Holloman AFB but it was so dang cold at night we turned the water off before bed to keep the hose from freezing. Prior to that was our first time using it and we just filled the tanks and went north towards Caliente, NV for a long weekend.

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6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
Well, I decided to lower what I could of the coroplast to see what is leaking. The rear fresh water tank has a darn crack in the bottom of it. Everything was dry underneath until I filled the tanks up. No clue how long it's been like that. The thick plywood that supports it is soaked and bowing quite a bit. That was the source of all the leaking, not the overflow. Will only be able to use city connection until I can replace it.

Does anyone have any idea how much those tanks are and where I can get one?

Also, I ended up putting a pex ball valve in place of using the cap and plug as the pump won't work with that line disconnected. Contrary to what I said earlier, it worked perfectly on the 1/2" hose with a couple hose clamps. Someone told me back in December that a 1/2" pex fitting won't work on a 1/2" ID hose.

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cookie

Administrator
Staff member
The first thing I would do is contact Heartland Parts. That tank may still be used today.
Heartland Customer Service
877-262-8032 / 574-262-8030
They should be able to help you but if not here is a list of suppliers that I found on line.
Google search.

Peace
Dave
 

6.7LMegaCab

Well-known member
Thanks, Dave! I'll give them call. Just curious if anyone had an idea how much they are from the factory. Thanks to you, I may go aftermarket, as those prices seemed pretty reasonable, but I'll give Heartland a ring to see how much their tanks are.

It just dawned on me, they must have installed those tanks before the floor was put in because it looked like those plywood supports were screwed in from the top. Hopefully what I saw was for something unrelated, but it would make sense so the screws don't gouge the tanks.

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danemayer

Well-known member
It just dawned on me, they must have installed those tanks before the floor was put in because it looked like those plywood supports were screwed in from the top. Hopefully what I saw was for something unrelated, but it would make sense so the screws don't gouge the tanks.

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Tanks are installed very early in the manufacturing process, way before the floor is installed.
 
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