What are the plumbing parts you would replace...

TXBobcat

Fulltime
My Bighorn is a 2008 3400RE. I have been reading threads about replacing the plumbing parts. The only thing I have replaced is the kitchen faucet. It is working good for now but I am a bit concerned with all the things that are popping up. I have learned from all the things that are discussed on this forum it is a good thing to listen about the things that are happening if you don't want to get bit. So I would like to make a list of plumbing things that need to be checked so I don't have a big problem. And what you have done to replace the parts.

These are the things that may be a concern:

Have you replaced it, how did you do it and with what.
Kitchen Faucet:
Shower faucet:
Bedroom sink Faucet:
Toilet connections:
Outdoor shower faucet:
Hot water heater:
Water pump:
Regulator behind wall or shower for Santi-Flush:
Santi-Flush connection:
Fresh water tank filler:
Fresh water tank drain:

If you can think of anything else please post about it.

BC
 

bighorn3370

Well-known member
BC, I replaced my kitchen faucet when my BH was new. It was leaking internally and leaving water around the neck. Last spring, I replumbed behind the UDC. I wanted to be able to winterize the RV without climbing into the storage compartment. Wheile doing this, I placed a shutoff valve on the low point drains behind the UDC. I figured if I camped in the winter, it would keep the low point from freezing. I replaced the plastic fittings with brass and used pex crimp rings. Ernie101_2458.jpg
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
That looks like something I might want to tackle. I've already replaced a couple of fittings, due to a small leak, and have all the tools along with some spare fittings.

BTW, that's a good photo of the water heater control module I've mentioned on another thread. If the tape lets go, it may drop and the connector come off if it's not securely inserted. BTDT with the previous TT.
 

SouthernNights

Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
Checking all those items is a good idea but unless you have x ray vision or a crystal ball you wont see everything.

Changing out the plastic Pex fittings to brass is good preventative maintenance. While you are changing the fittings it gives you the opportunity to to clean up the spaghetti behind the basement wall. I changed out all the plastic pex fittings when I put in the water manifolds. After that, fix problems as they occur...do periodic checks to put the odds in your favor.

I have not changed out my kitchen and vanity faucet. I think I should now that I have had problems with the outside shower. I did have to take the kitchen faucet apart to clean it, not anyone's problem-just sand in the screen.

When you think about it, there are thousands of trailers out there that never have a problem, some of us just like to tinker.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Thanks Ray, I did not realize that the big box stores had Pex stuff.

If you're looking for a pex tool, there are two types. A crimp which you will see a lot of in your coach, which is probably cheaper. The other is a more expensive tool that uses copper compression rings.
You can purchase either of these from Lowe's or Home Depot.

BC
 

bighorn3370

Well-known member
Michael, if you look at the lower corner of my picture, you will see the crimp tool. I bought mine at Home Depot. I also bought the tool for the brass crimp rings. It does cost more than the other style. I did this work in May of 2010 and have had no leaks or seepage. The fitting that the factory uses seeped a bit. I could see dirt collecting around the ends. I hope this helps you out. Ernie
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
If you're looking for a pex tool, there are two types. A crimp which you will see a lot of in your coach, which is probably cheaper. The other is a more expensive tool that uses copper compression rings.
You can purchase either of these from Lowe's or Home Depot.

BC

I have checked with both Home Depot and Lowes in Houston and neither one knew what I was talking about and did not carry them. That is the stores in Spring and Conroe and one in Houston. I ended up getting mine at Menards the last time we were in Elkhart.
 

2psnapod2

Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
Thanks Ernie, I will have to look into them. I definitely do not like the way my area behind the UDC looks. It is so messed up in there that the Holding Tank Cable is snaked around several different lines. I will be fixing it soon.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
TX Bobcat - Are you high on something?

No......:confused:

But if you come down to Texas we can get you off the frozen weed you're on up in Canada.....:p

I hear it's better to smoke it rather than suck on it like a popsicle...:cool:

So why do you ask??

BC
 

caissiel

Senior Member
I have a 2009 and had to replace both nipples on the HW tank connections. The top one is antibackflow valve and you can get it at the local camping supply and the lower just needs a new brass fitting I bought mine at Canadian Tire. I prefered brase to plastic because the top one cracked and flooded the basement. The fittings are both 1/2" NPT.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Just for my own information, I bought a DLJ SJ50 Hose Meter from www.watermeters.com. I added it after my filter system so I can determine how much water I flow and have a better idea of when to change the filters. It will also tell me exactly how much water I'm putting into the tank when using the black tank flush.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
TX Bobcat

Are you high on something?
Bobcat is high on life.

To reply to his post though, We must be lucky. Since delivery 5 years ago, I have removed the flow restrictor in the kitchen fixture and snugged up the kitchen drain at the "P" trap and correctly re-installed the sink drain gasket in the kitchen sink. That's it! Oh, almost forgot about the fresh water fill/vent system. We had to "reroute" the tubing to eliminate any low spots and replace the fresh water pump within the first couple weeks. Other than that, no runs, no drips and no errors.

I do have pex fittings and a tool just in case. Still in the packaging. Now, where's a piece of wood to knock on.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Thanks Ray... Life is good...(I think tha is a jeep thing :cool: )

Part of my reason for starting this thread is because I have read a number of threads that discuss the problem with the plastic fittings on the water heater. I try to do some thing by being proactive and I do not look forward to doing these.

I just had the Closet Rod fall to the floor when we drove back to Melissa from Houston. Checked out the threads and I now have a strategy on how I want to replace the rod. This is why I really enjoy this forum.

If anyone has some photos of what they replaced on the HWH I would appreciate a couple of views..

BC
 

SouthernNights

Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
Bob,
Sorry I only have one view right now but I go behind the basement wall way too much so I will take another one if you still want it.
012.jpg

The bottom fitting is supply to the water heater, the top fitting (check valve and it was my first flood because it was up against the vent pipe) is supply out.
 

rebootsemi

Well-known member
I'll copy this again from Suburban, if you have 3 valve by-pass you don't need the check valve, I took mine out and chucked it, cheap piece of crap anyway. Guess the factories have not got the message yet..



show details Apr 27




The check valve is normally installed by the RV manufacturer at the hot outlet port of the water heater (the top fitting) to prevent water from back flowing into the tank when a 1 or 2 valve by-pass valve system is used for isolating the water heater from the rest of the RV’s plumbing system for winterizing and draining the water heater. A 3 valve by-pass would not use a check valve because it would have a manual shut off valve at the hot water outlet port.

Louie Richard
Assistant Service Manager
Airxcel, Suburban Products
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Thanks Ray... Life is good...(I think tha is a jeep thing :cool: )
I just had the Closet Rod fall to the floor when we drove back to Melissa from Houston. Checked out the threads and I now have a strategy on how I want to replace the rod. This is why I really enjoy this forum.
BC
Finally? After all these years your closet rod fell? Mine was down the first day we headed south for the winter in 2006. It's an easy fix. I used the same hangers but located them where the solid wood was under the shelf above. I used 1/4" stove bolts all the way through. On the original install they missed with a few of the screws. The one's that hit the wood caused it to split cause the screws are so big and they don't pre-drill anything. It's been solid ever since.
 
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